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Congratulations! Your engine looks amazing and I wish you good luck with the results.

I wish I could do the same thing you did but that's not an option for me right now. What I'm doing to try getting rid of my temp issue on the road is replacing the thermostat valve and cap with new OEM parts, flushing the whole system to clean it up for good and putting the correct amount of water/coolant back. My water/coolant mix had almost 2 year on it! Hope to get rid of my engine heat problem by doing these little things. If not, then I'm afraid I'll have to have my head checked an serviced as you did. Let's see.
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
Thanks for the compliments on the engine bay. I really took a lot of time back in '07 when I pulled the motor for the first time to really clean everything up and paint the bay and all that. I'm gonna button a few things up today. When I'm done I'll take a shot of the whole thing back together and post it up.
 
Discussion starter · #65 ·
Just a follow-up to officially close out this thread. It's 4 months later now and I've had the car back on the road about 2 weeks since the weather broke here in PA. I've taken the car on several decent length trips over multiple days and have boosted to it's max setting of 22lbs several times. So far, no over-heating issue. Needle is riding just below half and hasn't budged once warm. I'm convinced I've corrected the issue and that it was in fact the headgasket on the verge of disaster.

I'm also greatly enjoying the lock-steady idle speed of the FIAV elimination mod. Should have done that a long time ago.
 
Discussion starter · #67 ·
You think so? I read a published article specific to the DSM over the winter that said it really wasn't that great of an upgrade on the 2G. I have thought about it though. I'll have to dig around for that article today when I get home from work.

What I'd really like is to do a GSX swap on it in the next year or two. I'm hoping to get lucky and find the perfect donor car - one that's too beat to be worth fixing, but yet has a salvageable drivetrain. I have the garage space and most of the tools it would take.
 
It's not so much of an upgrade as it is aesthetic. You're still running low enough boost that it won't blow out the spark. One advantage is you can leave the coil in place and just swap wires back if you want/need the stock ignition for timing or switching back to OEM. I carry a spare coil for the COP just in case I ever experience a failure, but never have had to use it. I actually make a coil adapter for #1 cylinder to time my car with the COP still installed.
 
Discussion starter · #70 ·
A radiator shroud is just a piece of metal or molded plastic that goes over rad and rad fans. The problem people are eluding to in this thread is that when people go to aftermarket fans they often just mount the fans on the radiator w/ no shroud. The problem that creates is that you have air moving through the radiator that isn't getting funneled through the fans. That leads to two problems. 1 - Your fans aren't pushing as much air (even if they faster aftermarket fans the volume of air is lower) and 2 - Your not maximizing the cooling potential.

Mishimoto makes a real nice aluminum fan shroud that bolts right up to the stock rad and most aftermarket rads.
 
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