The seal on my oil filter blew out & of course, all of the oil went with it. The problem is that I didn't know this until I tried to start it after it had stalled. The engine groaned, produced a lovely grinding noise & would not turn over. I do realize that there are a number of things that could have happened from running out of oil, but I don't know which is the most likely. So for anyone who has had this happen, or has seen his happen, what is the one specific thing that most likely ocurred?
Blown seal on oil filter
94gsr
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The seal on my oil filter blew out & of course, all of the oil went with it. The problem is that I didn't know this until I tried to start it after it had stalled. The engine groaned, produced a lovely grinding noise & would not turn over. I do realize that there are a number of things that could have happened from running out of oil, but I don't know which is the most likely. So for anyone who has had this happen, or has seen his happen, what is the one specific thing that most likely ocurred?
Heeehehehheheahahahhhahha. I had this shit happenned once 2. What happened was all the valve springs went flying everywhere, not to mention a hole the size of my nuts in the block. Oh ya, the pistons sezied up 2. Hopefully u don't go through the same crap I went through. Did you hear the engine knock,ping like a bitch at all. Good luck sir.
No knock or ping, & I'm pretty sure that the valve train is okay. I still have to get it towed back to my house to rip it apart & assess the damage. I was thinking a seized piston or two would be the most common outcome, but I'm not sure. Time for a new engine... 
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783 Posts
I've had this very problem. I bought a bunch of mitsu filters for my talon last fall and ALL of them had the same problem. The gasket on the outer edge of the filter is just a little fin. Once you romp on the car a few times and get some real rpm's out of the motor, a little hole pops in the fin and magically theres a pool of oil under your car the next morning. Long story short, always buy a filter with a real thick gasket (thick like a pensil eraser), like a fram or a purolator. Also, another key item to watch is on '92 and up, the oil filter screws onto the oil cooler. The oil cooler screws onto the filter assembly. When you unscrew the filter, you might loosen the oil cooler and leave a gap. Once again, running the car hard pushes the oil through the gap.
Brett.
Brett.
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264 Posts
The blown oil filter gasket deal just happened to me but luckily I was looking at the oil pressure gauge when it dropped & it appears nothings fatally wounded. I had a cheap filter on it as I was doing a short flush after my crankcase had been contaminated with gasoline from a bad ECU that had 2-3 injectors at wide open. Thanks for pointers about the thick gasket filters & the adapter housing. I have a 91 AWD TSI & it has that oil cooler adapter assembly on the oil filter mount also.
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40 Posts
My oil leak
i have been having a oil leak on the drivers side of my engine..whats happens is when i give the car some throttle i can see oil spitting off the timing belt..it looks as if it is coming from the oil filter area..i tightend the oil filter as much as possible..i was wondering if it might be the oil cooler like u guys are saying..i was wondering whats the easyest way of tightening that??thanks guys
i have been having a oil leak on the drivers side of my engine..whats happens is when i give the car some throttle i can see oil spitting off the timing belt..it looks as if it is coming from the oil filter area..i tightend the oil filter as much as possible..i was wondering if it might be the oil cooler like u guys are saying..i was wondering whats the easyest way of tightening that??thanks guys
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387 Posts
i have switched to genuine oil filters ONLY because of the better gasket, with the oil seal design with the raised extra outer lip. i have NEVER had seepage or a seal blown with the factory filter. your seal blows because the oil pressure relief valve sticks, and normally, when oil pressure is too high, the relief valve will open, and dump the oil back into the sump. synthetics have superior flow rates to conventional oil, and, of course, thinner oils flow faster. the relief valve is opening lots of times during the engines normal run cycle.
be very careful when torqueing down the threaded shaft that holds the sandwich oil cooler. if you over torque it, you will crush it, and then you will get oil and coolant mixing, NOT a good thing. over time, the viton o ring seal on the back of the sandwich oil cooler gets hard, and shrinks. this, combined with the many filter changes, will cause the threaded shaft to back off, and you will get oil seepage, and, in extreme cases, oil will dump past the seal. the very inner part of the sandwich is higher than the outer part, so when you really torque it down, and bottom it out on the base of the oil filter head, you crush it. a new one is like more than 200 bucks, but, it does come with a new seal, which you cannot buy separately.
the best way to fix this is to go with the 90 t/e/l air to air oil cooler, this eliminates the sandwich, the threaded shaft for the filter is a part of the casting, so it cannot back off, the oil filter sits farther away from the downpipe, so heat transfer is much less, AND, the superior heat transfer of oil will GREATLY increase the life of the motor and turbo. it also eliminates another possible problem, that of the flexible coolant lines needed going to and from the sandwich cooler splitting, and you loosing coolant, which they WILL do.
be very careful when torqueing down the threaded shaft that holds the sandwich oil cooler. if you over torque it, you will crush it, and then you will get oil and coolant mixing, NOT a good thing. over time, the viton o ring seal on the back of the sandwich oil cooler gets hard, and shrinks. this, combined with the many filter changes, will cause the threaded shaft to back off, and you will get oil seepage, and, in extreme cases, oil will dump past the seal. the very inner part of the sandwich is higher than the outer part, so when you really torque it down, and bottom it out on the base of the oil filter head, you crush it. a new one is like more than 200 bucks, but, it does come with a new seal, which you cannot buy separately.
the best way to fix this is to go with the 90 t/e/l air to air oil cooler, this eliminates the sandwich, the threaded shaft for the filter is a part of the casting, so it cannot back off, the oil filter sits farther away from the downpipe, so heat transfer is much less, AND, the superior heat transfer of oil will GREATLY increase the life of the motor and turbo. it also eliminates another possible problem, that of the flexible coolant lines needed going to and from the sandwich cooler splitting, and you loosing coolant, which they WILL do.
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40 Posts
oil pressure sending unit location
i was wondering where the oil pressure sending unit is located...thanks guys...
i was wondering where the oil pressure sending unit is located...thanks guys...
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264 Posts
The oil pressure gauge sending unit is on the rear of the oil filter housing assembly, a simple oil pressure switch on the front. Am I to understand that dsm's lack a low oil pressure cutoff circuit for the fuel pump or ignition sysytem that has been routinely installed on the majority of cars since the 80's, even Honda's had it in the 70's? How can we be blowing up due to no oil pressure if we DO have that very common failsafe circuit?
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146 Posts
Oil LEAKING
I'm hoping that someone is reading this.....but I'm having a bad leaking problem, from what I can see it looks like it's comming out of the oil filter housing, I don't know excatly how to go about fixing it, Can I tighten it? Is there a gasket? Do I have to buy a new housing?
I'm hoping that someone is reading this.....but I'm having a bad leaking problem, from what I can see it looks like it's comming out of the oil filter housing, I don't know excatly how to go about fixing it, Can I tighten it? Is there a gasket? Do I have to buy a new housing?
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