Okay, I was talking to a guy I know who's son does tractor pulls. The tractor uses 3 massive turbos and puts out around 200psi. He told me that the wastegate his son uses is simply a pressure release valve from a hot water heater. Check out this link and look for them. http://www.plumbingsupply.com/hotwater.html These things can be had cheap and I'm sure can be bought in very large sizes from a commercial water supply company. What do you guys think? Will this idea work? I mean it almost looks like it will to me if it could be bought for a much lower pressure and a larger size which shouldnt be too much of a problem.
Check out this idea, tell me if it'll work for an External Wastegate
16g-95GSX
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Okay, I was talking to a guy I know who's son does tractor pulls. The tractor uses 3 massive turbos and puts out around 200psi. He told me that the wastegate his son uses is simply a pressure release valve from a hot water heater. Check out this link and look for them. http://www.plumbingsupply.com/hotwater.html These things can be had cheap and I'm sure can be bought in very large sizes from a commercial water supply company. What do you guys think? Will this idea work? I mean it almost looks like it will to me if it could be bought for a much lower pressure and a larger size which shouldnt be too much of a problem.
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The design is right, but the mechanism for releasing the pressure is not. It looks like it has a little knob on top.. you turn it one way to release pressure, turn it back to seal. How would you operate that while driving the car?
Yea I definately noticed that. Perhaps there is just a regular purge part to it as well, as it seems it is almost an emergency bypass valve if the pressure in the tank gets too hot. I couldnt imagine them having an emergency pressure release that was manual. Maybe I am wrong. Anyone have any good input here?
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The page says "pressure relief valve" not "emergency pressure relief valve".
So yeah, it has a manual switch on it for relieving pressure.
So yeah, it has a manual switch on it for relieving pressure.
Well I have been reading and it appears that these things are set to open at a certain temperature or pressure. It doesn't appear to be a manual device. Now I believe that there is a manual overide of sorts where you can do it yourself, but I believe this unit works just as well on its own. I just read about 4 different pages on it. I wonder if we have any plumbers here on the board that can help us out.
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I guess you are asking in the wrong place. Go to your local hardware store and ask them how those things work. If they are designed to hold 150psi (with a spring or something) and 151psi will open the valve to bleed off that 1psi of pressure and then re-seal, you should be in business.
However, it will look like ass.. so unless you are sponsored by Home Depot, I would say avoid it.
However, it will look like ass.. so unless you are sponsored by Home Depot, I would say avoid it.
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Hahaha.ProjectGSX said:
However, it will look like ass.. so unless you are sponsored by Home Depot, I would say avoid it.
How will it look like ass? I mean I wouldn't use it for a manifold mount, but for an O2 housing application it would be perfect. I have already found a few units rated at 30psi, so I am sure I can find one for 15psi. The thing is the 30psi unit I found was only 10.95 in price as opposed to a 350-400 dollar external wastegate that does the same thing. I also read an email that was sent from someone reading these forums who was a plumber and he verified that this unit is automatic and that the knob you saw was simply a manual override. He said that the lever was only used when he would work on them, just to be sure everything was in check.
If you were able to mount it to an O2 housing setup for an external, which is definately out of view of anyone, and run a return tube from this unit back into your exhaust there would virtually be no difference between this and the external. Only the 340-390 bucks you saved in price.
If you were able to mount it to an O2 housing setup for an external, which is definately out of view of anyone, and run a return tube from this unit back into your exhaust there would virtually be no difference between this and the external. Only the 340-390 bucks you saved in price.
By the way I'm not trying to be a cheap ass here, I know it sounds that way. I just am trying to think of a nice alternative to an expensive external WG, something that would allow us all to afford those big expensive turbos that don't have an internal and require the use of an external.
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Hey man, if you think it will look good and decide it will work, then go for it. More power to you. You asked for opinions so I gave you mine.16g-95GSX said:
O I know, that comment wasn't intented as a harsh comeback. I know that negative comments are going to be posted and that's totally fine with me. I just appreciate any feedback I get on posts as it's the comments that ask questions and give answers that truly will develop an idea into something good.
I just figured this was almost like the fish tank MBC idea only on a larger scale talking about a more expensive piece.
I just figured this was almost like the fish tank MBC idea only on a larger scale talking about a more expensive piece.
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And my opinion of the fishtank MBC is exactly the same. Unless you are sponsored by Home Depot, buy a real MBC.16g-95GSX said:
Keep in mind that I have a 99, so under the hood is still nice and clean.. So, I care what the engine bay looks like.I understand that some people don't care what stuff looks like as long as it works.. and I can respect that. I want it to work well AND look good.
I install water heaters. The valves open at a pre-determined PSI. You can also open them manually, hence why there is the little "hanlde" on them. As far as the valve holding up to the Exhaust temperature, I don't see it happening. The valves deal with water and they never open during normal operation. In fact, if you have a failure, and the valve opens, you are SUPPOSED to replace them. If it was being worked as constantly in a TURBO application, I can't see the thing holding up to it. You could use an Industrial/Commercial grade "pop off" but I don't think you're gonna find one at the PSI you're thinking of. Good luck to you, any way to save some $$ is a good enough thing to spend some time on.
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Well I think this would qualify as being a cheap ass. LOL. I may have mentioned it before but I got my tial for 300. You can pick up a deltagate off ebay for 150, and some are new. I personaly like the tial better. The quality is much higher. Lastly you can get a 35mm tial for a little over 200. Just gotta shop around.16g-95GSX said:
Yea I definately don't want to go with a delta gate as I have heard nothing but bad comments and reviews on the unit. I woud most likely need something around a 40mm so that would run me around 350 dollars from RRE or another vendor. I guess if I wanted to go used I could get one slightly cheaper. So I'm a cheap ass, at least I try
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