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Discussion starter · #21 ·
NeEmo6 said:
Is the pre-install setting a must?? Or should i expect a spike with the t-25?? How did you guys preset your bc??
I am going to answer yes to the first two questions. Pre-setting the HPBC is VERY important. In order for the HPBC to work properly, you need the two valves set in relation to one another. Otherwise it will act weird.

On top of that, I dont think you can avoid boost spikes on a T25. The turbo spools up SO fast. However, your spikes should not be more than 1, maybe 2psi. If you get larger spikes than that, something is wrong.

Also, make sure you did not hook up the HPBC backwards. When I first installed mine, I replaced a Hallman MBC. The TurboXS MBC's flow backwards compared to those, so I put it in backwards to start with.

My recommendation is to take the HPBC off of the car (leave the hoses in place) and put it back to the original settings. That means the top (bleeder valve, the blue one) setting should be ALL the way to the negative side and the side (ball and spring valve, the brass one) setting should be only in as far as it takes so that when you shake the unit you do not hear the ball bouncing around.

Then put it back on the car and go for a drive. If boost is still unstable, something is wrong. Either you installed it wrong or the unit is defective. If you think the unit is defective, call TurboXS and talk to them about it. They would rather replace your boost controller than have you call them and say your engine blew up because of crazy boost spikes.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Important note!!

All "ball and spring" type MBC's have a bleeder valve built into them, whether they advertise it or not. The TurboXS HPBC has one, but it is adjustable.

You should make sure that you never completely close the adjustable bleeder valve. The reason that it is there, is to bleed off the pressure left in the hose when the ball re-seats itself.

Picture this. You have the valve set for 12psi. You hit 14psi, the ball lifts, pressure fills the hose and hits the actuator. You let off of the gas, the ball re-seats, you still have 14psi worth of air in the vacuum hose, trapped between the MBC and the actuator. Without a bleed valve there, the air gets trapped and the wastegate flapper STAYS OPEN.

I learned this first hand on Sunday. :) Make sure the bleeder valve is atleast open a half turn.
 
a while back we installed the regular turbo xs mbc on a friends car. and it worked great except when we didnt need to set the boost (for the track or the occassional street race) it would shake totally loose and we would be pushing 22 + psi, did this happen to anyone else? the reason i ask is because it will be going on my car when i find one...
 
http://www.turboxs.com/High Performance Boost Controller.htm
The turbo xs can be purchased from here..

Currently im running just a KN air intake (im workin on mods yeah blha blha blah) my 1g bov is in the mail...
Here is my question..?

I have a friend who is big into modding his car (he got me hooked) any way...long story short how hard is the Turbo XS to install and set up? i want to do it alone and put bov/XS in with out him knowing and suprise him?
Thanks (in advance :) )
ps (yes i do have boost gauge so ha)
 
ok does no one else have this problem with Turbo mbc? unless we had it closed all the way (which would have like 13 psi) it shake loose untill it was fully open which was around 22 psi i believe, which is bad....:confused:
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
kyle said:
ok does no one else have this problem with Turbo mbc? unless we had it closed all the way (which would have like 13 psi) it shake loose untill it was fully open which was around 22 psi i believe, which is bad....:confused:
No, I have never heard of anyone having that problem. I would assume the threads are messed up on yours. Call TurboXS and talk to them about it, see what they will do. Their number is on their website.
 
Follow the instructions!!

ProjectGSX helped me fix my HPMBC install... The supplied hose is supposed to go from the blue nipple to wastegate and stock hose from the compressor to brass nipple. I wanted to mount the BC on one of the fan shroud screws. The supplied hose wasn't long enough so I swapped the stock and supplied hoses... bad idea. I didn't pay enough attention at the time but the supplied hoses ID is nearly 2x the stock. The blue nipple and wastegate holes are larger than the stock hoses. This caused a spike to 14 where it settled to 12. With the pre-sets I should only be running 10.

After talking to ProjectGSX I moved the BC and swapped the hoses, rock-solid 12 psi after adjustment with quick spool.

VERY happy with this piece!!

Blake
 
hhhhhmmmmmmmmmmm

Sounds like i must be investing in such a thing*S* I am starting to mod my car now enginewise and I understand that boost controller+BOV is the first thing to start with..so I will go get me a boost gauge and a boost controller so I can start to get some more power..also a open air filter and a new UICP is soon to be on the car....then an exhaust...

Sounds like a good way to go?
 
ProjectGSX said:
The standard one is fine to start with. It is cheap, good looking, and easy to adjust. All good things to have in an MBC. The difference is that it (and every other mbc besidea the TurboXS High Performance MBC) allows small 1-2 PSI boost spikes.

This is acceptable early on in the game, when you have just started modding, and things like that.. but once you have an upgraded turbo, fuel system, and a fuel management system.. then you dont want the spikes.

Yes, I still have mine but a friend is currently borrowing it. I like to have extra parts around in case something breaks, etc. I still have 2 mbcs, 3 spare bovs, a k&n air filter, and a set of agx adjustable shocks :) You never know when you are going to need something!
Hey project, would it be safe to go with a standard MBC with the mods I have, I have a 97 Gst Spyder w/Greddy catback exhaust w/3" tip, Greddy uppper/lower intercooler pipes w/Greddy BOV and a Max Speed air intake.
 
That's funny cause I can't get mine to work correctly for sh*t, Ive followed the instructions to the tee! no matter what it still boost creeps way to far. I'll keep messing with it tomorrow and if it does'nt work I'm going back to marc hallmen boost controller. I figured I'd try it for the faster spool ,and rock steady boost I hear people talking about. Hhmmmm....maybe mine is defective
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Lee's GSX said:
That's funny cause I can't get mine to work correctly for sh*t, Ive followed the instructions to the tee! no matter what it still boost creeps way to far. I'll keep messing with it tomorrow and if it does'nt work I'm going back to marc hallmen boost controller. I figured I'd try it for the faster spool ,and rock steady boost I hear people talking about. Hhmmmm....maybe mine is defective
It's either defective, installed wrong, or adjusted wrong. Since it does control boost somewhat, it must be installed right. But since it is creeping, that means it is not opening the wastegate far enough. That means you either have a hole in the hose you are using between the MBC and the actuator, or you have the fine adjustment opened too much. Or it's defective, like you mentioned.

I try not to adjust the fine more than 2 full turns from the completely closed position. Try lowering boost at the fine point, and remember you can always call TurboXS and ask them for help. Their number is on their website.
 
Well it's not the boost controller. I did some testing today and no matter what it still creeps, so I swapped it out with another MBC and the same thing it would creep to like 24psi or so!!! So I've come to believe my wastegate is not doing it's job correctly. I have 35mm dalta gate, If I what to run low boost , I guess I would have to get bigger gate like 46 tial gate, Damn!! Now that's more money I've got to spend on my baby, or I can just run race gas all the time........not!:^)
 
As I understand it the fine adjustment screw bleeds off the press from the 'boost' hose and the coarse screw adjusts the ball&spring tention. Why would opening the fine adj screw cause MORE boost creep? The instructions plainly read "If you exspereance any boost spikes, open the fine adj screw untill boost spikes are resolved"
What about removing the Orings for better 'bleed' off?
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Rodman said:
As I understand it the fine adjustment screw bleeds off the press from the 'boost' hose and the coarse screw adjusts the ball&spring tention. Why would opening the fine adj screw cause MORE boost creep? The instructions plainly read "If you exspereance any boost spikes, open the fine adj screw untill boost spikes are resolved"
What about removing the Orings for better 'bleed' off?
The fine adjustment bleeds off from the wastegate line.
 
Hello,
I just recently purchased the HP MBC from Turbo XS and i was just wondering if i have it set up correctly. i have a vacumn line running to the wastegate and the other one runs to the BOV vacumn line.( where it is split with a T). is this correct? i can turn the boost up to about 12-13, but doesnt seem like i can go higher. Should i disconect the factory boost controller? i have that vacumn line disconected, but it is still electrically hooked up. :confused:
 
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