It runs great when cold out, at least @7psi, but when it gets warm, I get the code 11, or 21, really hard to read, and I lose boost downto 0. I'm replacing my o2 sensor, but could it really cause that much loss of power. I can't get over 70mph, when it starts bucking, and it getsthere very slowly. The CEL only comes one every once in a while. Any ideas, a bad o2 just possibly couldn't do this much damage
7psi cold, 0psi hot, and CEL code 11
janders7
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It runs great when cold out, at least @7psi, but when it gets warm, I get the code 11, or 21, really hard to read, and I lose boost downto 0. I'm replacing my o2 sensor, but could it really cause that much loss of power. I can't get over 70mph, when it starts bucking, and it getsthere very slowly. The CEL only comes one every once in a while. Any ideas, a bad o2 just possibly couldn't do this much damage
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Code 11 is the O2 sensor and code 21 is the engine coolant temperature sensor. By the way when was the last time that you changed the plugs and the plug wires??
plugs
I just changed them yesterday, the day before I changed my injectors, and computer. I'll put in my o2 when it gets here, and my fuel filter later this week, along with the ISC. I don't understand how I can get 0 boost though, if it was a vacuum problem, it would do it always, but it's intermittent.
I just changed them yesterday, the day before I changed my injectors, and computer. I'll put in my o2 when it gets here, and my fuel filter later this week, along with the ISC. I don't understand how I can get 0 boost though, if it was a vacuum problem, it would do it always, but it's intermittent.
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Did you check for boost leaks???
All I've done is a visual inspection
I don't have an air compressor. Tommorow I may spray all the piping down with soapy water, and have my girl rev the engine for me(It's an Auto). oh yeah...
70mph, 4th gear(auto)2500rpm....0psi
70mph, 3rdgear(ODoff)4000rpm...-3psi
It seems whenever I hit 7psi, it cuts boost to 0
I don't have an air compressor. Tommorow I may spray all the piping down with soapy water, and have my girl rev the engine for me(It's an Auto). oh yeah...
70mph, 4th gear(auto)2500rpm....0psi
70mph, 3rdgear(ODoff)4000rpm...-3psi
It seems whenever I hit 7psi, it cuts boost to 0
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One : You have an aftermarket boost gauge right???
Stock Boost Controller
I'm not putting any $ into it until it runs right. I'm trying to find a link on where to put in the knock LED, I think that may be why my car is losing boost(although I didn't know it could go to 0psi) FYI I now have my 92 MT ECU w/ 450's running the 13g, but It ran exactly the same with th AT ECU and 370's. I may have to replace the lifters, but I'll do the LED mod first to see how bad it is, and replace all the stuff I'm waiting on.
ANYBODY HAVE A LINK TO THE KNOCK LED MOD DIRECTIONS, or ANYWAY TO TEST THE KNOCK SENSOR?
I'm not putting any $ into it until it runs right. I'm trying to find a link on where to put in the knock LED, I think that may be why my car is losing boost(although I didn't know it could go to 0psi) FYI I now have my 92 MT ECU w/ 450's running the 13g, but It ran exactly the same with th AT ECU and 370's. I may have to replace the lifters, but I'll do the LED mod first to see how bad it is, and replace all the stuff I'm waiting on.
ANYBODY HAVE A LINK TO THE KNOCK LED MOD DIRECTIONS, or ANYWAY TO TEST THE KNOCK SENSOR?
I know you don't want to put any money into it, but you're going to have a hard time finding and fixing the problems without some tools.
I'd highly recommend getting a boost gauge that reads vacuum and boost. It's cheap and will be invaluable.
If you can swing it, buy a logger, too. The software is $150 from http://www.pocketlogger.com and you can pick up a suitable palm on Ebay for about $50.
BTW, you can use a bicycle pump to test for vacuum/boost leaks. I'd bet $10 you have some.
I'd highly recommend getting a boost gauge that reads vacuum and boost. It's cheap and will be invaluable.
If you can swing it, buy a logger, too. The software is $150 from http://www.pocketlogger.com and you can pick up a suitable palm on Ebay for about $50.
BTW, you can use a bicycle pump to test for vacuum/boost leaks. I'd bet $10 you have some.
I drilled a hole into a pvc end cap and glued a valve stem in it. I just clamp it into my lower IC pipe, block open the throttle, and pump away.
You could modify that idea by clamping a hose to the end cap, and clamping the other end of the hose to the turbo intake. I didn't think it was necessary, but that's the way most people do it.
BTW, I still would really advise you to doublecheck your timing.
You could modify that idea by clamping a hose to the end cap, and clamping the other end of the hose to the turbo intake. I didn't think it was necessary, but that's the way most people do it.
BTW, I still would really advise you to doublecheck your timing.
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I meant an aftermarket boost gauge not a boost controller.
The stck in-dash gauge is a joke, that thing doesn't tell what amount of boost you might be getting.
The stck in-dash gauge is a joke, that thing doesn't tell what amount of boost you might be getting.
The car will run fine with a bad O2 sensor, maybe better. Instead of looking at the O2 sensor the ECU runs the car rich. This will decrease gas mileage. Its unusual for the ECU to flag the O2 sensor working or not.
I've never had a bad coolant sensor but this this seems more likely to be the culprit.
I've never had a bad coolant sensor but this this seems more likely to be the culprit.
Pressure check
I just used a cut intertube, stretched one end over the TB elbow, and pluged the other, pumped it up, found a few minor leaks, plugged them, but car still has the same problem. As for the coolant sensor The ohms checked out fine(I don't think my computer popped the code, it was just a garbled 02 code). I think the problem may be in the wastegate, or knock. I wish there was some type of thick goo, to keep the lifters from ticking, could a thicker Oil do this?
Just long enough to eliminate knock to see if my car runs with more boost?
I just used a cut intertube, stretched one end over the TB elbow, and pluged the other, pumped it up, found a few minor leaks, plugged them, but car still has the same problem. As for the coolant sensor The ohms checked out fine(I don't think my computer popped the code, it was just a garbled 02 code). I think the problem may be in the wastegate, or knock. I wish there was some type of thick goo, to keep the lifters from ticking, could a thicker Oil do this?
Just long enough to eliminate knock to see if my car runs with more boost?
Last summer I had to pop for new lifters. It wasn't too hard to tell what was happening. Each day the car got a little worse until the factory boost gauge would go all the way to the top while the car hardly moved. And a sound like a shop vac was coming from under the hood. The symptoms were a lot like when an intake hose is off except for no smoke or wanting to stall.
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