Can you just get rid of the air canister all together and use the existing clamps on the MAS connect to the air filter and let it hang where the canister was is that safe?
Question about Air Canister on 1G N/T's...
eagletalonawd93
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Joined
·
7 Posts
Can you just get rid of the air canister all together and use the existing clamps on the MAS connect to the air filter and let it hang where the canister was is that safe?
Not really. There is no means to support the stock flexible hose without the airbox. Therefore the weight of the air filter and maf will pull it down and it will just flop around in the engine bay. Not the best idea.
K&N makes a FIPK for the cars. Its just a bracket that bolts to some of the stock airbox mounts and provides a mount for a hose clamp. The hose clamp goes around the stock hose right next to the maf to support things. They also include a ring that allows you to use the stock clamps to hold the filter on. Its 140 bucks or some such crap and you are better off fabricating something to hold the filter/maf assmbly up, rather than paying that much for a bracket, hose clamp, and a metal ring.
An idea to keep the filter on is to just drill holes in the top of the airbox (that the maf mounts to) and put bolts thru it and the metal ring around a K&N to hold it on. Works very well.
K&N makes a FIPK for the cars. Its just a bracket that bolts to some of the stock airbox mounts and provides a mount for a hose clamp. The hose clamp goes around the stock hose right next to the maf to support things. They also include a ring that allows you to use the stock clamps to hold the filter on. Its 140 bucks or some such crap and you are better off fabricating something to hold the filter/maf assmbly up, rather than paying that much for a bracket, hose clamp, and a metal ring.
An idea to keep the filter on is to just drill holes in the top of the airbox (that the maf mounts to) and put bolts thru it and the metal ring around a K&N to hold it on. Works very well.
Joined
·
776 Posts
There is a VFAQ on how to cut the air can in a way thats close to what your talking about. check here [url]vfaq.com[/URL]
Alot of people do that but take it a step beyond and cut off basically the whole can except for the lip when the 3 little clamps are and that works too. You just have to decide which you think would work better. Some people say that cutting the hole in the bottom of the can like the vfaq says is best b/c it blocks hot air from the engine but still lets in much more slightly cooler air from the new big hole. Other people cut off the whole thing simply for the reason that they think more total volume of air is better. Personally i did it just like the vfaq and I am very happy with it that way. BTW which ever you choose the sound difference is awesome.... and hack the mas too. There is also a vfaq on that... just click on intake.
Dennis
Alot of people do that but take it a step beyond and cut off basically the whole can except for the lip when the 3 little clamps are and that works too. You just have to decide which you think would work better. Some people say that cutting the hole in the bottom of the can like the vfaq says is best b/c it blocks hot air from the engine but still lets in much more slightly cooler air from the new big hole. Other people cut off the whole thing simply for the reason that they think more total volume of air is better. Personally i did it just like the vfaq and I am very happy with it that way. BTW which ever you choose the sound difference is awesome.... and hack the mas too. There is also a vfaq on that... just click on intake.
Dennis
Joined
·
13,845 Posts
Take out the whole can and install the filter using just the 3 clips from the air can lid. You can then use a zip tie or something along that line to hold the remaining part of the lid to something solid under the hood. I have seen many guys get away just by putting a tie from the air can lid to the AC line near the fuse box.
Joined
·
901 Posts
I have my can cut almost completely off, the only parts left on are what's needed to keep the bracket closest to the radiator intact. I have the metal ring from the can there too, cause it was easier than using bolts. For the actual tube itself I have a section of 3" chrome tube I cut off of a push bar on a wrecked jeep and silicone radiator hose from a truck parts store w/ regular hose clamps holding it all together (although I might be getting some t-bolt clamps, cause I'm afraid the engine is gonna jerk the upper connector apart cause theres no flex in the lower part)
I did have to move the can a little, so the one mounting bolt doesnt line up anymore, and I had to cut my battery box up to clear the tube, but it looks like an Injen and cost ~$15. Oh yeah and I cut the front off the resonator box and trimmed the elbow so it blows cold air onto the filter... it looks like this might actually be helping cause the filter always gets dirty right where the elbow is aimed.
I'll post some pics this weekend once the films developed from the show....
I did have to move the can a little, so the one mounting bolt doesnt line up anymore, and I had to cut my battery box up to clear the tube, but it looks like an Injen and cost ~$15. Oh yeah and I cut the front off the resonator box and trimmed the elbow so it blows cold air onto the filter... it looks like this might actually be helping cause the filter always gets dirty right where the elbow is aimed.
I'll post some pics this weekend once the films developed from the show....
I did cut the AirCAn and left one of the mounting holes to support the AirFilter. That also allows to properly mount the AirFilter with the 3 Clamps.
You can see a few pics on this page of mine. The Pics don't exactly show you how I cut the AirCan but I'm sure you can use your Imagination and come up with something decent.
http://www.lks.net/~ghislisa/DSMMod.htm
As a side note; Some events (Like at the Shoot Out) requires that you keep at least Two Mounting Holes on the "AirBox"in order to remain in the "Stock Class"... Sometime they don't mention anything about Hacking it!!! Just read the rule book of the event you want to participate.
Hope this helps.
Ghislain.
You can see a few pics on this page of mine. The Pics don't exactly show you how I cut the AirCan but I'm sure you can use your Imagination and come up with something decent.
http://www.lks.net/~ghislisa/DSMMod.htm
As a side note; Some events (Like at the Shoot Out) requires that you keep at least Two Mounting Holes on the "AirBox"in order to remain in the "Stock Class"... Sometime they don't mention anything about Hacking it!!! Just read the rule book of the event you want to participate.
Hope this helps.
Ghislain.
Joined
·
173 Posts
one thing to think about when removing the air can is this VAPOR LOCK!!!!!!!!! if you hit a big puddle or when driving in heavy rain your air filter might get wet. im runnin a k&n fipk which compleatly replaces the aircan with a big ass air filter. hit a big mud puddle on purpase, then the next day i was looking under the hood and noticed my filter had big nasty dirt clods from where the water had splashed on it. now that i think about it my car ran shitty for like the next 2 hours or so after the puddle experience. this is all just a thought though
Joined
·
901 Posts
You need to almost completely submerge the filter in water to get enough water in to vapor lock. Yeah splashing alot onto the filter isnt good, and the water will get in the engine, but it will actually only steam clean the internals and not really harm anything(other than maybe the MAS on its way in, I don't know how waterproof they are). If anything, you probably got some of the underhood electronics wet and that caused the car to run shitty for a while, It happens to me once in a while when I pressure wash my engine bay (which I do with the open element air filter uncovered) and most of the time its cause water pools in the spark plug area, cause it runs better once I dry that area out. Water does get under that cover alot easier than you think.
Joined
·
2,467 Posts
hey if you have an automatic NT dsm. I can sell you the ring you need to keep the factory mounting points and still use an aftermarket open-air filter. i made it for when my project car was Auto back in the day and it's just sitting around. email me if you want it otherwise i'm trashing it
You guys are talking about hydro lock, not vapor lock. Hydro lock involves getting fluid into the cylinders which is for all purposes incompressible. This destroys motors.
Vapor lock is a term used to describe the problem encountered when fuel vaporizes in the lines. This causes incredibly hard starting of a fuel injected engine. Cessna had some problems about 2 years ago with the new Skyhawks vapor locking when it was very hot outside.
Vapor lock is a term used to describe the problem encountered when fuel vaporizes in the lines. This causes incredibly hard starting of a fuel injected engine. Cessna had some problems about 2 years ago with the new Skyhawks vapor locking when it was very hot outside.
i cut off my stock air box off before i got an intake to see if it was really worth it and it was! but i cut it off an inch or so after the ripples and tied metal wire to suport it to make sure it move to much on a metal vacume line i have on my 95rs. the stock piping has a little water catch undernieth by the first 90deg bend by the battery, it doesnt look like it holds much but i didnt have any problem in the chicago winter i also installed a breather filter on that bottum line by the botom of the radiator with some fashinable duck tape
you can see it here. http://www.angelfire.com/tv2/tecnocrap2/DCP_0200.JPG
that was a before shot. id show you under my hood now but we have to race first
i also installed a breather filter on that bottum line by the botom of the radiator with some fashinable duck tape you can see it here. http://www.angelfire.com/tv2/tecnocrap2/DCP_0200.JPG
that was a before shot. id show you under my hood now but we have to race first
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
