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you can see them at www.audiomobileinc.com

The Evo is the cheapest, but they all sound amazing. One reason most of you haven't hear audio mobile is because they sell their own products, they don't sell to retailers, they are factory direct. They are absolutly amazing subs, I swear by them. I highly reccomend these subs by all means. This little 10" Evo for $169 will out pound any comparable setup you can come up with. I once ran 1800 RSM watts to a MASS 12", rate capable of 1200 rms watts, and it took all 1800 watts without trouble at all. It lasted until the car was wrecked (had it over 16 months) with 1800w going to it. And I wasn't conservative on my bass settings either...

Trust me here, there is just nothing like these subs.

I think one reason they don't do much advertising is because of people like me. I heard it from a friend, so I tried it, and wouldn't use anything else now. They practially sell themselves. Go to a competition around here and no one has them, afterwards everyone asks me about them, next comp, 12 of their cars had them...
 
Just curious what kind of amp you were using, since 1800 is a lot of power. Was it real power such as PPI, Orion, Phoenix Gold, Zapco?
 
You guys are crazy...My friend ordered the cheap Pyramid subs (2 12" 700w) and has a $79 pioneer 300w amp and its so hard. My other friend has 2 15" Kicker Comps (800w) with an MTX Amp and he can't even come close to the pyramid. So what if they're cheap...they have warranties and I think they're totally worth it. You don't need an $800 system. Go with Pyramid.
 
theamazingjime said:

the BEST sub will only sound as good as the enclosure will allow!
the WORST sub in a properly built box will sound better than the best sub in a poor box!!
Its a FACT!
thank you. at least SOMEBODY knows what they are talking about. :)

and the audiomobile subs are very good bang for the buck. i have heard them and was quite impressed, however i like the sq my jl provides. jl just has a certain "sound" that nobody else can quite do the same... clean, hits deep, and punchy. i love that punch in the back feeling they provide oh so well :)
 
faithless said:
My friend has two 12s Pyramids the gold plated ones 2400watts and the 1600watt pyramid amp. He has them in a bandpass box and he broke his window hatch on his GS! So I dont know man.
your friend should get a QUALITY 250 watt amp, and i do emphasize the word quality. once upon a time, many years ago i had a "1200 watt" pyramid amp. i tested it with a volt meter and found that bridged, it was pushing somewhere around 200 watts rms, and it had some crazy distortion. i later bought my first(of 3) mtx amp. it was a mtx 275x, rated at 150 watts bridged at 4 ohms. realistically, it put out 241 watts bridged at 4 ohms. much better than a 1200 watt amp putting out ~200 watts :)

point being, if they got a good amp, like a jl 250.1, mtx 2150x, or something similar they would really slam. you can make a cheap sub sound good, but there is no way to make a cheap amp put out more CLEAN power. and CLEAN is the most important part. the mtx i described earlier put out .007% THD bridged according to the test sheet that came with it. overpowering subs is not what causes blown subs, it is distortion that blows subs. also, i would slap them for having a bandpass box, but that's my opinion. i like things to sound GOOD and the loud, not the other way around, but i understand different strokes for different folks.
 
That's funny! I bought a pyramid gold series amp at a YARD SALE, new in the box for $25. the PB-300.
the manual rates it at 75wpc rms.
I swapped out my Coustic AMP-160 with it (35wpc rms) and can you guess?
the Coustic blew it out of the water.
Why?
simple.
There are 3 grades of amplifiers.
Worst-
Clone amps.
stuff like Pyramid, unic, speco, legacy,jensen....
these amps have big ego's without the balls to back 'em.
Yeah, they may have 1800 watts!! painted across it in big numbers, but this could be any of the following--
rated at 14.4v
peak power (usually doubled or even tripled)
bridged mono (will cause overheating and clipping in cheap amps)
Total combined power(which can mean anything)
Better-
consumer grade amps.
like sony x-plod, kenwood, pioneer, clarion........
these amps have power ratings at or near their quoted specs, and are usually rated at 13.8 volts. (this is closer to what your alternator actually produces)
You will get what you pay for with these, don't expect much more.
For many people, this is as good as they need. They will play hard when you want. they may or may not shut down or overheat during abuse. (like sound off's)
best-
competition amps.
stuff like jl, eti, soundstream, phoenix gold, ppi,zapco...
these amps are often indestructible.
they are rated at 12volts. Many have cooling fans to ensure no shutdowns.
their wattage ratings are commonly lower than they actually are.
(a 100wpc amp, with an unregulated power supply will commonly push 140w/rms or more as the input voltage varies.)
why do they underrate?
If you compete, you know.
There are power classes in competition.
100W and under-
100w-300w
unlimited wattage
The goal is to get the best sound and highest spl out of the fewest watts.
So if all else was equal, and you had a consumer grade amp that was 100wpc
and I had a competiton amp rated at 70wpc,
my system would eat yours for lunch.
And thats what its really about isn't it?
your EARS hear the music. A big painted 1800 watts on an amp doesn't mean much.
My next door neigbor went to circiut city and got 2 mtx 12's and a huge alpine amp. she has gone back to them 6 times because of problems.
She just doesn't understand how my ETI 100wpc amp and two tens blows her 1000 watt alpine and 2-12's away!
This is why!
 
pb4ugotobed said:


first of all, we aren't talking about pyramid amps, we're talking about subs. secondly, i never disagreed with you that pyramid is crap, all i did say is that everybody has to start somewhere in the car audio world and gave a couple hints as to how he can make the best out of what he has.

try it sometime if you have some extra cash (50 bucks). buy some crap sub from somewhere, and mess with different enclosure sizes. you would be suprised at what you end up with sometimes... :) i had 2 rockford fosgate 10" punch Z series subs that came in this car when i bought it. (~45 bucks a piece) they hit REALLY hard. they hit pretty deep, and were *very* clean. i went up to the local audio shop and they hit 140.1. not absolutely great, but not too bad for a $100 investment on the part of whoever sold me my car :) granted, their enclosure literally took up my ENTIRE trunk (except for about 2 inches between the back of the hatch and the box) they sounded good. they were just too loud for me, and WAY too heavy so i sold them. anyways, my point is don't flame me when you don't fully read my post, as i never once disagreed with you.
First off, I wasn't flaming you and I know he wasn't talking about amps. I was saying Pyramid sucks PERIOD and using one of their amps as an example of their decietfulness which I'm sure applies to there subs as well. 2nd) I don't need to spend $50 on some piece of shit sub because I have 2 MASS 12's in my car. I worked in a car audio shop for years and have had more subs in my car than most stores even carry. Give me some Pyramid subs so I can hook them up to my Orion 2100HCCA and cook them for lunch ;)
 
Seanh said:


I was useing an EarthQuake amp. It was rated for somthing like 1400 watts but it bench tested out at 1800 rms watts.
Rediculous!!
EXACTLY what model earthquake amp was that? I am quite familiar with that line.
and WHO did the bench test and WHAT method was used to aquire these readings?

I am so tired of people posting thier bloated hype for power ratings!

BACK IT UP WITH SOME FACTS!!

I suppose you ran that amplifier on a stock battery, alternator, and voltage regulator as well , huh?

Please.
If you don't learn, prepare to burn.
 
Exactly, 1800 watts. Any idea how much an amp from PPI or Orion costs that will actually put out that much power? I forget bout how much does a PPI PCX 1500 cost? It puts out 500@4ohm, 1000 @2ohm, it is a 1 channel amp.
I hit 139.7 db, with an old school PPI ProMos 425, 25wattsx4 amp.
Pushing 2 JL 10W1, MB quart 6.5 comps, and Cadence 6.5 comps, off a stock battery and alt. Granted the front channels were running 1ohm stereo and the rear were running 2 ohm mono.
Wonder what it will do with a second ProMos 425 and 2 farad cap, Exide Orbital (very similar to Optima) and and upgraded alt......................?
 
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