Centre Force Dual Friction is the worst clutch...lasted 7 thousand miles...its complete crap.
its crap centre force
rainy
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Well I guess a little more information about what happened wouldn't hurt.......? 
You can't just say something is crap from one experience when they could be many variables involved. For instance your driving is definitely a factor. Installation is another. Could it be a factory defect? Break in period... You get my point. I have am going to get a new clutch soon and I have read 100's of posts on Centre Force clucths. They range from some guy breaking his clutch in just 6 miles of driving to people who have had them for years. They are a good performance clutch if not abused over their limits... Anyways you get where I am headed at. Just my 2 cents!
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244 Posts
Center Force Dual Friction
I just replaced my CF after 65k with a new CF. Maybe mine lasted so long due to FWD. It's 311 whp on a dynojet. I've got a ACT 2600 in my AWD and so far have broken 1 clutch fork, "bent " a brand new one, broken two rear axles, and a center dif. I also adhered to the 450/500 mile break in period on the CF too.
I just replaced my CF after 65k with a new CF. Maybe mine lasted so long due to FWD. It's 311 whp on a dynojet. I've got a ACT 2600 in my AWD and so far have broken 1 clutch fork, "bent " a brand new one, broken two rear axles, and a center dif. I also adhered to the 450/500 mile break in period on the CF too.
It all depends on how you treat the clutch. GO read RRE's website they tell you on there that if you are doing constant runs down the 1/4 mile with it, not allowing it to cool down you will turn it into "kitty hair" . If you allow the thing to properly cool it is a great clutch. It is just like your brakes, if they get too hot they don't work as when you hit them for the first time hard. If you keep doing runs down the track and pull back into stage the clutch is going to wear significantly faster than it normally would. If you want to do that kinda stuff get the ACT 2600.
. If you allow the thing to properly cool it is a great clutch. It is just like your brakes, if they get too hot they don't work as when you hit them for the first time hard. If you keep doing runs down the track and pull back into stage the clutch is going to wear significantly faster than it normally would. If you want to do that kinda stuff get the ACT 2600.
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244 Posts
The AWD is a '90. It's probably only making about 250 at the crank,tops. 16 psi, 3" Thermal, no cat and opened air can with a K&N. The axles, and center diff. broke under agressive launches, the clutch forks did not. If there was a CF in there I believe the axles and center diff would have stood a better chance of surviving these launches but then again I'm sure the CF would wear prematurely.elhalish said:
I have one in my car with a dog-box too. I am a happy customer spraying 100+, 16/20 hybrid, FMIC, over 500 HP. I road race, drag race, street race, and auto-x with no problems at all. A co-worker has a twin turbo mustang over 750 HP and he has the same results...........pleased.
IMHO I think CF has some production problems. I broke mine in properly, launch pretty hard every now and then, let it cool between launches yadayadayada and mines slipping after about 6 months. POS in my opinion. I'm getting an ACT 2600 this time. Friends did the same thing. No track use with mine, limited on his and they are both slipping in the higher gears and we all know what that means.
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135 Posts
Well I don't own a DSM but I have been in two when their clutches went. The first was a GVR4 stock with stock clutch, knew it was going when the car was puchased 2,000 miles earlyer. The second was a 92 TSI AWD, CFDF had about 7,000 miles on it. The car was purchased with it, but the guy said he broke it in. The the CFDF went due to driver style in my opinion, he rides it like a grandma. Put in a stock one, managed to kill that in a few thousand, got it replaced on warrenty (one of the springs had broken out, but the disc was glazed to heck) Now the GVR4 owner went with a 2100, and the disc lining flew off in a couple thousand miles, got that replaced on warrenty. But the 2100 is a waist of money if you are AWD, his "stock" (PVC intake, mbc @14) GVR4 was able to make is slip slightly (was still holding just not solid). Since then he has gone to a 6-puck with the 2100, holds good but is a little rough. He broke a 3-bolt axle (hard launch) and a center diff (was converted to FWD with a welded VC was going home after his dyno time {307 pump gas 18 PSI if you are wondering} got on it and wheel hopped into 2nd, boom). He plans on going to the 2600 with a Street disc. Now the third and final friend blew his stocker and went to a 2600, wow, that's a clutch.
In the end it's ALL about driving style and personal prefrence.
In the end it's ALL about driving style and personal prefrence.
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