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MadSpooler, That freakin blows! Was there any Crank Walk symptoms before you took it to the shop (hard left = click)?

Mike, I wish I could help you out a bit but dont think Ill be able to get the time. If it would help, you could just write my name on a piece of scotch tape and tape it under the hood....thats kinda helping right?

Tekky, glad I could assist in your noble elvis tribute. LOL

Jw, got the 1g BOV in the car, if you wants to pick it up, just give me a call. I have my cell turned on today.

Josh the Fabricator..dun dun dunnnnnn. Way to go man! You should do a couple of logs after a leak test. Can you make Billet shit? Cause I could use some Billet Aluminum seat belts, and if you could forge some air vents for me, that would be great.
 
James ~ Does that mean you are going to come by mikes tomorrow afternoon and give us a hand?

If so call me or mike for directions he lives in friendswood, his house is about 10 minutes from my work so i'm going over there straight from work. Call me.

L8r:cool: :cool:
 
Sorry to hear that Wally, it sounded like you've crankwalked but I may be wrong.

Check out:
http://www.angelfire.com/pa4/crankwalk/

There is a link on how to check for crankwalk for both FWD and AWD. You can still use some of the stuff from your 2G and get a 1G long block motor. Swap out the 8.5:1 piston on the 1G rod. I dont know how much local junkyard charges but it comes out on the trader all the time ranging from $1000-$1800 with tranny. Without tranny, it should be cheaper.
Check out RRE website for places to find jdm motors, some comes with a 510cc injs and B16G. Those are the EVOs I think.
 
Mike, you should look into arp headstuds, aftermarket cams, valve springs and retainers when you are at the head. For cam gears, it's good to have but setting it is a bitch so I cant give you too much info. You can use lighten pulleys but dont do the crank pulley without a damper.
 
yeah come on over who ever wants to... ill be there around 4... just get with me for directions... im also looking at at a full jdm cyclone engine for 1400... well see...

jon... send me your tape to mount on the hood..
 
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Hehe I have an ad from trader for JDM Cyclone with tranny and tcase (AWD) for 1800 + shipping, I was gonna get it but looks like my problem is cheaply fixable... will find out today what all needs fixing, but the seller will seperate the items for 1500 and 500 it has 44k KM which i think was like 28k miles? I forget.. engine looks clean pulleys still anodized any all.... if you go that route lemme know I'll get the link for ya.
 
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Jon, no I didn't have any symptoms at all. There was nothing, no mushy clutch, the clutch didn't stick to the floor, it wasn't hard to shift.. but there was a weird little click noise when I made a turn.. I don't remember if it was a left or right turn, but I know a left turn for a fact. It made a weird noise, like my axle was clicking. That's what I thought it was. I don't know what to do now. Looking for a 6 bolt.
 
Ok people if anyone is down to help me out pull this car I have down to the shop I need the following things since my friends keep selling me out.

2 License plates
Someone to drive behind me
Someone to drive the car I'm hauling
 
Sorry about the pm thing, i always forget to check it.

Tristram ~ Ypu got it bro I'm currently working on some designs but if you have a pic or idea of one type inpaticular let me know we'll get together on this.

Frank ~ All we need to do is put in tow on that car and pull it to the shop. I have a buddy that could probably loan me his lowboy trailer if need be, let me know.

Mike ~ Yeah I'll be by tonight afterwork, I have to go look at a house about 10-15 minutes from your house at 6:30 but will be right back after i'm done looking. I'll come by when i get off probably at 5:20-5:30. Check your PM.

Well after some fighting some strategicly placed tach welds on Andy's exhuast we got the test pipe installed. It sounds and looks sweet. FYI if ever doing this always replace the stock hardware with stainless that way in the future for removal they are not rusted and easier to remove.

Will have the 1g blowoff flanges for anyone who needs one at the shop tomorrow night. I had the guys here weld up 2 of them with pipes the rest are just the flange about 10 of them. If yo need one let me know. I will be cutting exhuast flanges and o2 housing flanges next week, if you are looking for a downpipe or exhuast test pipe or custom o2 housing let me know today or tomorrow so i can have plenty of these cut. I will be cutting around 20 2.5" flanges (stock type) and 20 3" (triangular). I will be cutting around 5 o2 flanges for now until me and Josh can figure out ecxactly hoew to fabricate the elbows and flanges into a working piece. Building 3d model presently should help tremendously with angles and rounds.

If you are looking for a 2.5" or 3" downpipe let me know, This will be my next project. The ones i will be fabricating will mount to a stock o2 housing for now and will be upgradable for the custom o2 housing later. The things you will need to supply for your downpipe are the flex piece and the 90 elbow. Using a 90 elbow we will be able to achieve mandrel bend equivilance without having it mandrel bent. I can tell you were to get these elbows and flex pieces if you need. Let me know who's game so i can get some dimensions on different types of cars fwd and awd 2g, fwd and awd 1g, and of course the fwd 2gnt for me. These should be pretty bad ass when done and cheaper than anything you can find. Let me know if your game a.s.a.p.

L8r:cool: :cool:
 
i am game for O2 eliminator and DP maybe. Do you know where we can get 2.5" or 3" donut? 1 donut can be cut into 4 pieces for 4 O2 eliminators. It's much cheap than going with 4 mandrels.

However, I do not agree with using a 90 degree (short radius I presume?) instead of a mandrel 90 degree. You want exhaust to flow smoothly instead of a sudden 90 turn. A 90 sharp turn will cause alot of back pressure. The curve has to be as smooth as possible therefore I think mandrel is still the best deal. Even press bend is fine.

In fact, the stock DP is not exactly 90, it's somewhere around 72 degree or so.
 
Hey Denis, count me in on the 3' downpipe and exhaust project that you have coming up. My tags are about to expire and I need to get a exhaust on the car so that I can pass inspection. I should be getting 2 bonus checks this Friday so I can buy the parts that are needed. If you can tell me where I can get the mandrel bends locally that would rock.


-Huy
 
as far as mandrel bends, call muffler shop after muffler shop until you find one that does mandrel bending. I am going to do that same thing today. I have found plenty of places that sell pre bent mandrel pieces in all sizes for reasonalble prices on the net but need somone local. You could also go to the j-yard and look for mandrel bent stock exhuast systems and cut the bends out you need, a cordless recip. saw helps here, or go to muffler shops and ask if they have any 3" or 2.5" stock takeoffs you could look thru. as far as the flex piece you can get them from autozone or oriellys just ask the guy at the counter. Or you could go to the j-yard and find a 1g nt they have a clamped on 8"X2.5" flex piece stock and there stainless so as long as they were never bottom out and gouged up they will work fine.

Jw ~ your elbows need to be long radius and we will be able to cut anything less than 90 if you buy a 90 so if they are around 72 degrees we will split the difference and remove a 9 degree section from each end.

The best bet for this would to get a long welding rod or small round stock piece and bend it by hand from the o2 housing under the car to the cat or test pipe. Then take this pre bent rod to the muffler shop and tell them to press bend this shape out of 2.5 or 3" pipe leaving around 4-6 inches to long on each end for assurance of length. Then you take the pipe and fit it and weld the flanges on where needed most muffler shops should be able to do this for around $20-30 then take your pre shaped downpipe and begin to fit it to the car. when you get from the cat-back you can do the same thing pre bend a rod to the shape you need to route to the muffler and go back and have them do the same thing. In this manner you should be able to get all the pipe for your exhuast pressbent for around $40-60. Buy a $99 muffler get your flanges for free and have good friend weld it up for you and youve got a turbo back 2.5 or 3" for around $250-300 dollars after you pay the FABRICATOR i figure we'll charge $100 bucks for fabricating the DP, test pipe and cat back. So you pay for the pipe and press bends and the muffler and throw down a hundred for the fab team and walla new $600 exhuast system for peanuts. This offer is only good to active members of No Name Racing houston dsm club.

L8r More Info to Come:cool: :cool:
 
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