hey, my clutch engages off the floor, went to fix it, looked under the steering colum like i was told, theres no adjustment bolts, just 2 small push button switch sensors that it has and 1 i believe is for cruise control, 1 in front and 1 in back, the 1 in back has a rod with 2 bolts but i dont see how that could do anything =\
Working On Clutch Now Quick Response Ne 1 Please!!!
anconover
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hey, my clutch engages off the floor, went to fix it, looked under the steering colum like i was told, theres no adjustment bolts, just 2 small push button switch sensors that it has and 1 i believe is for cruise control, 1 in front and 1 in back, the 1 in back has a rod with 2 bolts but i dont see how that could do anything =\
i just bought the car, it has a brand new clutch and cable, wheres this adjustment under the hood or wha? i cant find shit on this car, and i dont see any leaks anywhere and all the fluids were filled before i bought it =| can someone direct me to this to adjust it?
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334 Posts
It is a brass colored rod that threads into the black horshoe shaped bracket to the right of the gas pedal and way up there. You can get it with a pair of vice grips. Just remember it is to the right of the gas pedal not the clutch pedal. Shine a flashlight up there and you will see it.....Good luck.....Lee
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7,980 Posts
If you can get it to engage slightly above 1/2 your synchro's will be better off. If thats all the adjustment you can get, you can order a slave cylinder rod extension from Taboo, then you can adjust your height better. Also tighten the crap out of the lock nut on the adjustment rod (if its loose, the rod will turn itself back into the bracket).
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7,980 Posts
From what I've found, you want the clutch to fully engage just over half way up (this assures there is enough pressure beyond the engagement point, and it gives the synchro's more time to catch the clutch disk). Please correct me if I'm wrong, I got some of this info from the guy that did my tranny (I think I've mentioned his research to you once before
)
)OK, you asked for it..scotthidley said:
I found out that it takes only 1/4 of the total clutch pedal travel to extend the slave cylnder enough for the fork to hit the inside of the bellhousing which acts as a stop and fully disengage the clutch. At that point - with the clutch fork travel maxed out, the clutch simply can't disengage any better or more. If you adjust the pedal travel so the clutch is fully engaged over half way up, the fork hits the stop when the pedal is some 1/4 of the pedal travel off the floor. If you keep pushing the pedal even further to the floor, the clutch won't simply disengage any further (since the fork's already maxed out) and you're only creating unecessary pressure within the hydraulic system which may lead to blowing the master and/or slave cylinder piston seals. If the cylinders can take the pressure, you actually start lifting the fork off the pivot ball and start pivoting it against the bellhousing - where the fork in most cases sooner or later snaps...
im not positive, but its not FULLY engaged at 1/2 i take that back, i just got home and its about, 3/4 to the floor and its basically fully engage cause at 1/2 i grinded 2nd pretty good racin a friend, it starts engaging between 1/4 -> 1/2 from its normal position to the floor, shifting is now 5x's easier than when i was BANGING it into gear and i dont get any nasty grinds except for my own error
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7,980 Posts
Martin, thanks for the explination. That makes sense.
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