okay...i had put my hallman mbc on before i changed my oil...and the boost was at about 8lbs the way i got it. before i changed my oil i turned the mbc in about 2 turns..because someone told me one turn is about 1lb of boost. so after i changed my oil and did a few other things to my car..i jumped in and went down the block full throttle forgeting all about the fact i had turned my boost up. well at the end of 1st gear and about 1 second into 2nd gear i looked down and saw my boost gauged pegged!! ( its a 20 lb guage, but it was pegged way past that! ) as soon as i saw that i let off...but i was prob running 25 or so lbs of boost for like 1 1/2 - 2 seconds. ( i hope! ). right now the car still runs fine...but do yah guys think i hurt anything? all i have is a k/n filter and a gutted cat. oh yah my boost is at a safe 11lbs now lol. thx in advance
crap..my boost went to 20++ lbs!!
ALkYuLA
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okay...i had put my hallman mbc on before i changed my oil...and the boost was at about 8lbs the way i got it. before i changed my oil i turned the mbc in about 2 turns..because someone told me one turn is about 1lb of boost. so after i changed my oil and did a few other things to my car..i jumped in and went down the block full throttle forgeting all about the fact i had turned my boost up. well at the end of 1st gear and about 1 second into 2nd gear i looked down and saw my boost gauged pegged!! ( its a 20 lb guage, but it was pegged way past that! ) as soon as i saw that i let off...but i was prob running 25 or so lbs of boost for like 1 1/2 - 2 seconds. ( i hope! ). right now the car still runs fine...but do yah guys think i hurt anything? all i have is a k/n filter and a gutted cat. oh yah my boost is at a safe 11lbs now lol. thx in advance
I don't think you should be able to get 17lbs of boost out of 2 turns of the controller. Also remember you don't actually reach full boost until 3rd or 4th gear, due to the load on the engine. For example, if your boost is set to 13psi, you will probably only hit 7 or 8 in first, and a bit more in second. I think this is responsible for a lot of boost mishaps (like, someone sets and tests a boost controller in 1st or 2nd, thinking they're running 12psi, then gets to 5th gear and ends up boosting 23psi)
You were probably experiencing a boost spike. Make sure everything is hooked up right, and if the Eclipse has a t-vsv, that needs to be disabled. Nothing should have been hurt in that short time, though. The knock sensor etc still applies, and if your car is still drivable now you didn't break anything major.
You were probably experiencing a boost spike. Make sure everything is hooked up right, and if the Eclipse has a t-vsv, that needs to be disabled. Nothing should have been hurt in that short time, though. The knock sensor etc still applies, and if your car is still drivable now you didn't break anything major.
hmm..well..i turned it out 1 and a half turns and now it is at 11 lbs...and i tested it in 3rd from 2k rpm to 6k rpm... so im pretty sure 11lbs is waht i have it set at now. i dont know if it was a spike or not but it was past 20lb when i looked at it. well it still drives fine so i guess i didnt hurt anything...oh yah waht is a t-vsv??
I'd set my boost controller in 4th gear, just to be safe. Might as well take it to 5th just to be sure. The t-vsv is like a factory installed bleed-off boost controller that uses the wastegate. With a mbc, it needs to be disconnected or will result in some NASTY boost spike/creep. I don't know about the Eclipse turbo system, so it may use something else or simply not have one. So I'm not saying that's your problem. 
I don't know what kind of boost controller the "hallman" is, but if it's a bleeder valve controller, it will be much more prone to boost spike and creep than a ball spring.
I don't know what kind of boost controller the "hallman" is, but if it's a bleeder valve controller, it will be much more prone to boost spike and creep than a ball spring.
In our applications it is best to leave the stock Boost Control Solenoid (BCS) in place and merely add the Manual Boost Controller (MBC) inline after the BCS. This will allow you to hit stock boost (10-12psi) cleanly and then the MBC will hold the rest off until you reach the load point where you actually want the boost to be. I am not sure about MR-2's, but in DSMs you can quite easily make full boost in 1st or 5th gear. -Ian
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Nah, you'll have way too much boost bleeding off to the atmosphere if you put it inline with the stock BCS. That would be like having a boost leak. Most people get rid of the stock BCS completely and then just put the MBC between the compressor outlet elbow and the wastegate actuator. I personally put my stock BCS in parellel with the MBC and put a switch to it in the cockpit so I can switch between stock boost levels and and my higher MBC set levels. I get rock solid boost when its between the compressor elbow and the actuator. Less hose = less pressure drop = rock solid boost.ijsaul said:
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Hey natedogg, can you give me some more information about your setup? It sounds sweet, I would like to do something simliar with my car. How is everything hooked up, and what exactly does the switch do to changeover between the stock and MBC?
the hallman boost controllers are pressure release BC...not bleeder-type. they should not allow boost spikes. and they should be sensitive when tuning them.
also if you have a stock t-25 i dont know how it couldve handled past 20psi on that little guy.
also if you have a stock t-25 i dont know how it couldve handled past 20psi on that little guy.
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I did the same thing on my car when I was using the Joe P boost controller. I put a magnetic sensor (like the kind used in house burglar alarms) on the select cable on the shifter, so it would detect when I was in 1st or 2nd. I used that to power up the solenoid so I wouldn't have crazy wheelspin in 1st and 2nd... it would hit 10 psi. Then in 3-4-5 gears I had my 18 psi through the Joe P.natedogg66 said:
I had to take that setup off when I went to the external gate though, as the spring pressure on my gate is good for 7-8 psi boost. Not enough in 1st and 2nd. Maybe I could have put another Joe P on the low side, but I got a good deal on an electronic controller instead.
That's a good point. I know some people who thought it'd be an awesome idea to drill a hole in the firewall and extend the mbc hose into the cockpit so they could adjust the levels will inside the car. However, too much hose will also result in boost problems. You should have as little hose as possible.natedogg66 said:
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That's a good idea. I had been thinking about doing something similar, but haven't had the time to work on it. I think dejontool does something like that only they charge over $100 for it.James92TSi said:
Sure. Its actually pretty simple. As far as the hose goes...you have one hose going from the compressor outlet elbow to a 'T'. One end of the 'T' goes to the MBC the other goes to the BCS. The two hoses then coming out of the MBC and the BCS 'T' back together and the single hose from this 'T' goes to the wastegate actuator.
The electrical is even easier. The BCS is held open when energized so this will be for low boost because it allows pressure through the solenoid. The BCS is shut when not energized so this is for high boost because it forces all the pressure to work its way through the MBC. The wiring is simple. Find a 12V power source, put it inline with a simple toggle switch which is inline with a 20 amp fuse. (Only needed if your power source isn't already fused. I used the cig lighter power source which is already fused.) After the fuse, you lead the wire through the firewall, wire it to the BCS, and ground the other side of the BCS to the chassis.
An alternate way of wiring it would be to put the power source directly to the BCS (like from the battery) and then put the switch on the ground side.
As a side note: If you plan on running more than 20 psi with this setup make sure the compressor outlet side of the BCS is going into the side nipple rather than on the end nipple. 20 psi seems to be the BCS's spring limit because the boost isn't steady above that on my car anyway. But by keeping the high pressure on the side nipple it doesn't push against solenoid like it does on the end nipple.
If any of this is unclear let me know and I will try to clear things up a bit.
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