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The way i look at nitrous is the same way i look at steroids. A cheap way to get a ton of results. Any idiot that knows nothing about cars can pop nitrous and make his car faster. I like knowing my mods were done with some kind of knowledge behind them.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Are you saying that if I put nitrous on my car I am doing it because I know nothing about my car? :)
 
SmokinV8's said:
The way i look at nitrous is the same way i look at steroids. A cheap way to get a ton of results. Any idiot that knows nothing about cars can pop nitrous and make his car faster. I like knowing my mods were done with some kind of knowledge behind them.
That's pure crap, there's plenty of ways to blow your motor up with nitrous. It takes a fair amount of knowledge to build a motor to hold up to a big shot. I'm not talking about the little shots that people put on stock motors.. hopefully most of the people here could get that right. Those "stock motor" shots are usually the smallest jets available, no more than +20hp per cylinder. That's not really as much of a performance increase as you make it out to be, and it's not difficult at all to set up. Remember, +20hp per cylinder (maximum) is the general rule on a stock motor. That's a 75 shot on a DSM... usually good for 5 tenths. Not "a ton of results," just 5 tenths.

However, running a motor with a bigass shot as its only source of forced induction is just as challenging as a turbo or s/c, if not MORE challenging. I'm not going to play bench-racer, because I don't build nitrous 8 cylinders... but I have friends that do it, and it takes a good bit of expertise to build things that can withstand a BIG hit (a 300 shot on a 632" motor, for example). I have a hard time believing anyone who says it's just plug-and-play. Look at all the thought that goes into making our turbo cars run right... a fast nitrous car isn't any easier IMO. Fast cars in general aren't easy, I see no reason to bag on nitrous...
 
I think nitrous is a lot of fun. Defenetly a cheap way to make power. But it isn't exactly easy to tune 21psi with a 75shot on top. I would find my self running the car to the very edge of the ecu not pulling massive timming, and that's with 112 race gas. I remember running with the stock intercooler and a 55 shot. The car went from 13.3 @ 102 to 12.7@107 with the 55 shot. Then with the 75, a bit better tunning, and the supra SMIC it ran a 12.1 @ 112.1 mph. In that same day the car ran a 12.9 @ 104.9 with no nitrous. That's a 7mph, and .8 tenth faster. Those are huge improvements for just a 75 shot. Now with the cams it ran a 11.91 @ 114.4. The biggest advantage with the cams is their ability to keep EGTs much cooler. I was able to lean the mixture out a bit more and got a slightly better timming. On the street I had good experience running a 55 shot on pump gas with no problems.

I'm running a ZEX dry kit. Turbo trix sells them specifically for turbo DSMs. A lot of people belive that a dry shot is bad for turbo cars. I don't know why people think that, it dosen't hurt anything when ran properly. No different then cranking up the boost, if you don't have enough fuel mods your going to run lean and kill your engine. Although with a dry kit I do recommend to have an EGT gauge to monitor your engine's health while on the nitrous.
 
James92Tsi- That stupid block/ rail cost me around $300. When you purchase a rail from NX you have to buy 2 for the lovely price of around $220. As you can see you only need one and have to cut it shorter for a 4cyl application. Then you need to purchase the right drill bit, regular tap and bottom end tap to drill and tap each fitting to the rail. The taps are not cheap, I think the bottom end tap cost me around $40. And then there is the 8 hours of bending and cutting the tubing. Not a fun job. If I had to do it again I would use the supplied distribution blocks with the NX kit and use nylon tubing instead of the stainless.
 
I'm going with ZEX kit ya'll!!!

I'm definitely consider to get the ZEX kit from TurboTrix!!!
 
I'm gonna put one in my car, even though my father-in-law says, "Bottles are for babies!" He runs 8 cyl, and I run 4. Anyway, my opinion (since u asked!) is that anything that makes you faster is good!
 
I have a question about something my local shop told me. I was asking them about nitrous, and they told me this...
They said that every time you use it, it basically adds 10k miles onto your engine. And not only that. They also said each time you use it, you have to get a tune up and change all of your spark plugs and all that crap.
Are they wrong and have no idea what they are talking about? Or is there some truth to what they are saying?
That is my question. Pardon my ignorance :D
 
CrisMurfy said:
They said that every time you use it, it basically adds 10k miles onto your engine. And not only that. They also said each time you use it, you have to get a tune up and change all of your spark plugs and all that crap.
Are they wrong and have no idea what they are talking about? Or is there some truth to what they are saying?
That is my question. Pardon my ignorance :D
Forgive them, for they know not what they say.

In other words, they don't know what they are talking about. :D
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
CrisMurfy said:
I have a question about something my local shop told me. I was asking them about nitrous, and they told me this...
They said that every time you use it, it basically adds 10k miles onto your engine. And not only that. They also said each time you use it, you have to get a tune up and change all of your spark plugs and all that crap.
Are they wrong and have no idea what they are talking about? Or is there some truth to what they are saying?
That is my question. Pardon my ignorance :D
I hate to be the one to break this to ya, but they are absolutely correct....
 
i want to run a wet shot due to the simple fact that it handles the fuel for me, and i don't have to tune the car twice. i figure tune it once for just boost, then let the wet kit handle the fuel change for the nitrous. i may have to play around with jets to get everything perfect, but that's 10x easier than dinking with an s-afc and a datalogger.
 
TalonTsi95&97 said:
James92Tsi- That stupid block/ rail cost me around $300. When you purchase a rail from NX you have to buy 2 for the lovely price of around $220. As you can see you only need one and have to cut it shorter for a 4cyl application. Then you need to purchase the right drill bit, regular tap and bottom end tap to drill and tap each fitting to the rail. The taps are not cheap, I think the bottom end tap cost me around $40. And then there is the 8 hours of bending and cutting the tubing. Not a fun job. If I had to do it again I would use the supplied distribution blocks with the NX kit and use nylon tubing instead of the stainless.
Holy crap man, I thought it was good looking but not $300 good looking... ;) :D When/if I do mine I'll be sticking with the regular dist blocks and tubing, or I'll run short SS lines to the jets with the regular blocks. BTW I couldn't even tell that you had cut the rail shorter (unless it normally comes anodized on the ends). That sucks that you have to go through and tap everything on the rail, you'd think for $220 it would be ready to go.

Very nice setup though, what kind of a shot are you gonna be running?
 
Right now there are 100 shot jets in it. But when I am ready to run it I will probably purchase smaller jets. I would like to run maybe a 50 shot jet, just for aiding the turbo in spool-up. The ends are normally anodized. Just chopped it with a hack-saw, filed it, sanded it then hit it with the buffing wheel.
 
TalonTsi:
Why go through all that work just to runweak ass 50hp jets...might as well run a fogger. You will be kicking yourself when you are trying to change all those jets for more hp.

As far as a tune up and adding 10k miles each time you squeeze...bulls~~~. It is just another type of forced induction. Do you need a tune up very time you run high boost? It is a must that you keep good plugs in to keep down detonation though. Until you start running a 100 shot or more...no big deal. If our motors can handle 400whp with a big turbo they can handle the same with a proper N20 setup.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
By the way I was joking with my comment above.

About N20 being the same, you are wrong. Although nitrous is just like FI seeing as more O2 gets into the engine ultimately, it is the way that the O2 gets into the engine thats different. With a turbo there is a gradual increase in power, but with nitrous most commonly it is just a sudden shot (I understand there are kits that gradually allow it to enter the engine, but nevermind those as most are just a single shot). This sudden jolt has alot more harshness to it than regular FI would, and therefore bending/snapping rods and drivetrain parts will happen alot quicker than with just regular FI. Just something to consider when you say our motors can handle 400whp N20 or FI. Not bashing you though, just thought I'd add that as it does need to be taken into consideration, just ask Nano as he broke his drivetrain using Nitrous off the line.
 
that is why I said the motors can handle it not the drivetrain. I do agree with you in some respects but you understand the point that I was trying to make. You hear people say all the time.."can my motor handle a 50 shot blah blah...". While we coul debate all day as to the different characteristics of FI the point remains the same...N20 kicks ass and every car should have it!
 
nano said:
I'm running a ZEX dry kit. Turbo trix sells them specifically for turbo DSMs. A lot of people belive that a dry shot is bad for turbo cars. I don't know why people think that, it dosen't hurt anything when ran properly
Raising fuel pressure to add fuel always seemed like a very hookey fix to me. Spraying nitrous into the FPR vacuum line doesn't exactly seem to be too consistent either.
I've never used one, but just going off theory I would feel much more comfortable using a wet kit.
 
Nick 92 TSi AWD said:


Raising fuel pressure to add fuel always seemed like a very hookey fix to me. Spraying nitrous into the FPR vacuum line doesn't exactly seem to be too consistent either.
I've never used one, but just going off theory I would feel much more comfortable using a wet kit.
I agree, that seems like mickey mouse crap to me too... and I'd take it a step further to say when/if I do nitrous on my car, it'll be direct port even for a small shot. Yeah it's overkill to buy all the direct-port hardware just for a small shot, but I can't overlook how much TBI sucks compared to MPI. I'd rather divide the n2o/fuel mix in a distribution block than just puff it all into the plenum and let it go wherever it decides to go. IMO it's really the same concept as MPI vs. TBI.
 
16g-95GSX said:


I hate to be the one to break this to ya, but they are absolutely correct....
Gee I must have over 1/2 million miles easy :D .. My compresion is still 178 across the board just like it was before all my nitrous use. My first tranny didn't brake just because of the nitrous. After the moron who had it rebuilt because of a bad tranny pump, it didn't shift right, and blew up while cruising at 20mph. I only did two 50shot launches with pump gas before it died so I thought it might of been part of what caused it. The final drive gear that connects to the center diff locked up. don't know why, but evrything else was fine. With my new tranny I have pushed it much harder and ran much faster times then the other tranny and hasn't had any problems.

Nitrous adds more wear to the engine because of it produces higher cylinder preasures then forced induction cars. This is why people retard there timming when they run big shots.
 
Just being cautious. Several of my friends had bad luck with Nitrous- Mustang 5.0, GTI VR6 and Integra GSR all grenaded their motors on the bottle. All had motor work done. I just don't want to add myself to the list.:(
 
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