Alright, if nobody else will get off their lazy arses and organize some kind of DSM club for the Houston area I will!! Whoever is interested just post some kind of reply. I live in the Humble area, every Saturday night there is a fairly lame car show at the Jame's Coney Island about a mile from my house. Maybe some Saturday night we could all meet up at my house and head over there for a while, look at some cars, then maybe head out to Rankin or something. I dunno. Or maybe just head back to my house and put a few down or something. Or maybe nothing at all if nobody is interested. If anybody thinks this sounds like fun, or at least something to do, shoot me an email, iland_99@yahoo.com and lemme know what's up. Thanks.
Houston DSM Club
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JW - that sucks about the fuel regulator. That's why they stopped making them w/ the gauge connection, because they were snapping off. I think it's a crappy design anyway, having something dangling off the fuel rail like that.. things vibrate.. without some flexibility it's eventually gonna break...
I wonder if CAS will do anything about replacing it, since they knew the gauge connection thingy was a design flaw & got rid of it on later versions..
I wonder if CAS will do anything about replacing it, since they knew the gauge connection thingy was a design flaw & got rid of it on later versions..
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James:
When you comin?
When you comin?
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Guys;
Check out my new sig!
Check out my new sig!
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also, links to turbo pics have been added to the yahoo board!
I dont know either, I emailed Tony at CAS and waiting for his reply. I think the stub is fine but is would be use for a sender unit instead of a gauge connecting to it. The stud is tiny so with vibration and what not, it's pretty vunerable. I was lucky the thing didnt catch fire like the last time.. Wheeww.James92TSi said:
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*laughs* sigs brokenBoosted98gsx said:
Funny because they are connected in parallel, if the negative is disconnected, it should be an open circuit on the battery side and even if you short the alternator, it should still be an open circuit unless of course if the altenator is running.tekky_98_TSi said:
wronnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnng disconnect the pos. side... if you leave the altenator connected to the battery and short altenator hot side to exhaust (easy to do when rachetingo n the bottom bolt of the altenator, it will still short since you are grounding the hot side of the battery to a 'relatively negative' ground.... trust me... happened to me... scared the shit outta me...
never again though!
thats is all....
ohhh btw...
got my new altenator on... runs great now still need to play with the tension a bit... andddddddd got me a k&n + home depot mas to turbo (3in) intake for $25 + a turbo timer for (Greddy w/harness) for $60 the other night just need to find the wiring diagram so I can find the wires I need to plug into the harness....
anyways I'm outs
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Well I am considered to be the owner of a possessed car... so quite likely was a freak thing...jw said:
well guys im getting some cash so ill be able to take my car to ARD and get it fixed. this is a very good thing. John and everyone at ARD ill be calling monday to arrange a time to bring it up there to you guys. i will have a front motor mount if you guys could toss that on while you have it i would love it. hopefully when i get this mofo back itll be in prime condition and i can sell the shit outta it that is after i take it to the track and get a run in. man i cannot wait. you guys will get to see one happy mother f'er.
. man i cannot wait. you guys will get to see one happy mother f'er.
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Pics of turbo are here:
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http://www.geocities.com/boosted98gsx/Whole-Turbo-on-Exhaust.jpg
Last one is a url because it is BIG
http://www.geocities.com/boosted98gsx/Whole-Turbo-on-Exhaust.jpg
Last one is a url because it is BIG
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Disconnecting the negative side of the battery is the correct way to do it. The only way you'd still get a spark at the alternator after disconnecting the negative is if you have more than 1 battery (have to disconnect neg on all of them), or if you have an audio system with a capacitor on the amp main power wire (have to disconnect fuse/breaker on the amp power wire at the battery).
Disconnecting positive first is unsafe because you can end up shorting the battery with the tool you're using (but we all knew that).
JW - I'd say even a sender would put too much weight on that little gauge connection stub thing. The sender for my intellitronix FP gauge is just as big as a regular 100psi FP gauge. Maybe if you were to run a hose from the FPR stub and mount your gauge/sender somewhere else, you wouldn't have the weight/vibration problem... but why bother when you can just drill/tap the banjo bolt on the fuel filter? Mounting it the way they did is a crappy idea IMO.
Disconnecting positive first is unsafe because you can end up shorting the battery with the tool you're using (but we all knew that).
JW - I'd say even a sender would put too much weight on that little gauge connection stub thing. The sender for my intellitronix FP gauge is just as big as a regular 100psi FP gauge. Maybe if you were to run a hose from the FPR stub and mount your gauge/sender somewhere else, you wouldn't have the weight/vibration problem... but why bother when you can just drill/tap the banjo bolt on the fuel filter? Mounting it the way they did is a crappy idea IMO.
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Okay hopefully these will work !
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!
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Don't be afraid to tell me what you think of them now guys!
Yeah, I was thinking a hose connecting the sender unit. If it's a straight stub and a guage facing top, it may not be as bad as a 90 on top with a gauge, the vibration must have loosen the connection especially with the shitty Houston roadJames92TSi said:
. Oh well, let's see what they say.
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yall like the pics?
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