DSMTalk Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum banner
41 - 49 of 49 Posts
Grinding in first and reverse is what usually happens when the clutch needs to be adjusted, or the cylinders replaced. A 2600 is a very hard clutch to use, and your leg will get a good workout with it. :) That's why it's so hard to press.
You're saying the pedal had to be pressed to the floor to disengage the clutch right? That'll definately cause it to grind. You want it to engage about half way up the pedals travel. What's he asking for the car? It sounds like a minor adjustment problem to me, and not a lot to worry about. I'd imagine at worst you'll need to get a new master and slave cylinder. Again though, it's not a huge problem, and something you could change with minimal experience, and a mitsu manual.
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
Aight, I really appreciate your help Fox, He's asking $4500 for the car because he's done quite a bit to it since he's had it in the last 6 months, however I told him today that there's no way in hell I'm giving him $4500 for it so he said that he "will" take $4000 for it but after I find out if I can get the loan or not on Monday, I'm going to offer him $3600 for the car and tell him, "take it or leave it" so, if he really needs to get a new car to take with him to college then he'll sell it, otherwise, he can rip some other kid off :) Sound good to yall??
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
Hey another thing I was just thinking about on the car I drove today... I only looked at the car's Oil Temp 1 time today and it was on the stock gauge on the instrument panel and the heat range was kinda warm from what I'm used to in my 2g. The gauge was reading mid-high temps... Usually the gauge will be right in the middle of the temps but in this 1g it was a little higher (like 2/3's of the way up), just wondering if anyone has experienced this enough to know if that's just the way the 1g's run or if maybe there's something I should be curious about... Thanks guys.
 
occasionally mine will run at the first level. then if im on it a lil bit, or boostin more it will go about 2/3's it varies im pretty sure, but that doesnt seem like anything.
 
Turbo420A said:
Hey another thing I was just thinking about on the car I drove today... I only looked at the car's Oil Temp 1 time today and it was on the stock gauge on the instrument panel and the heat range was kinda warm from what I'm used to in my 2g. The gauge was reading mid-high temps... Usually the gauge will be right in the middle of the temps but in this 1g it was a little higher (like 2/3's of the way up), just wondering if anyone has experienced this enough to know if that's just the way the 1g's run or if maybe there's something I should be curious about... Thanks guys.
There's just an oil pressure, and coolent temp guage. My oil pressure guage rides about the same at cruising speed. As long as the oil pressure isn't low, or extremely high, it's not something to worry about.
 
buy the 1994. and build up the 7 bolt. it'll be fine :rolleyes:. i hate how everyone acts like they're made of glass. what i have noticed is the people who experience crankwalk are tyhose who increase the boost and do a bunch of mods without doing proper maintenence to the motor before building it up. my car is in a tuning shop right now, has been for a week, and will be for another week, it's getting worn parts replaced, all gaskets and the like replaced, and some performance work done. it's worth it to invest the time and money now, instead of destroying the engine down the road. these cars (1gs) are 10+ years old, i don't get the vibe that most of us understand that.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
Well fella's I'm going to the bank tomorrow morning to see if they'll give me the loan or not for the TSI. Hopefully they will, and hopefully the guy will wise up and realize that $3600 for his car is still a good price. He expects to get every cent out of the car including what he's paid for in mods... You simply can't do that and he doesn't understand that, but oh well... We'll see what happens. Thanks for you guy's help... I'm going to do a compression test on it tomorrow as well.
 
you just cant usually get ur money back on parts u replaced cause they were broken, because most likely u wouldnt sell the car if u hadnt fixed em =p

and as for 7-bolts, yea most likely hed be fine with the 94, but as u said, just build up the 7-bolt and itll handle basically anything, but why do that when u can take a normal 6-bolt and put more wear and tear on it without investing in stuff to build it up some. usually theyre fine, i dont like to take chances that can mean a new engine is needed.
 
41 - 49 of 49 Posts