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Just buy a new one.

If your car has high mileage, then just go to a local junkyard
and pick up one from a 2g.

Usually you can get one for $100 bucks. It might be a better option than trying to fix yours. The 1G manifolds commonly have lots of hairline cracks in them.

If you got the money and don't mind wasting it. Buy a ported one
from one of the DSM tuner shops. If you want to save time and
money buy a used one from a junk yard and port it yourself.

It might not even be reliable to fix a manifold with cracks in it, it
probably will cause more problems down the road. If any of your
fix it stuff comes loose then it goes through the turbine, not good.
 
My recomendation would be to try and pick up a 2ng Gen one from the junkyard...shouldn't be that much. I had a crack in mine and i replaced it with a 2g one and i could definatly feel the difference.
 
I'm pretty sure JB Weld will not hold up to the heat of the exhaust manifold. I think you can have the welded with succesful results, but its just going to continue cracking.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
WHAT

Did you guys happen to see the EVO attached in that message not 1G I mean EVO the ones that cost alot of money you know!! Why would I replace it with a 2g that would be fucking stupid. It just has acouple hairline cracks that might not even go through they might just be real shallow cracks. I really dont want to throw out a 300 dollar manifold considering its fully polished.

Drew
 
As stated.......... You could take it to a welder and get the cracks cleaned up a bit and have him weld a layer in there to cover them up. Yes in time it may crack some more, but this buys you time plus you will get more use from the manifold as opposed to just trashing it.
 
Yeah, sorry about that EVO thing.

I saw that after I submitted my post. Sorry.

If you are really bent on keeping that manifold, which I would
be if I had spent that much then there is something that might
help, but you would have to reasearch a bit. I don't know exactly
what it's called but.....

Sometimes depending on what type of cylinder head it is, a company will add metal to the head in order to form the quench
pads better. Once the metal is added they then have a better
area to work with when porting and shaping.

I don't know what this process is called, but I had read about it
on a well known company who was porting the already well flowing Integra GSR head with positive results.

The point I'm getting at is that if they can add metal to the inside of the cylinder head and it will last, then you might want to find
out what it is, the process, and look into the possibility of fixing
you manifold this way.

But, you might end up paying for your manifold again, cause what
ever the process is it sounds expensive.

Just trying to help.:cool:
 
yea, i was stupid and tried JB weld, haha it melted and smelled so bad for like 2 hours. i just drove my car hard so it would melt of and then wiped it away. i have tried to weld a crack but it made it worse due for some reason but maybe it will work.
Rich
 
how old is the manny?i would think that the evo's would be tough to crack,since it is the highest recommended factory manny to buy.what gives?
 
I've never heard of the EVO manifold cracking... are you sure it's not just a 2g manifold? The EVOs have a higher zinc content and thicker walls, which is more resistant to cracking than the 1g or 2g, and you don't even often hear of the 2g manifold with cracks. I would throw it through the window of whoever you bought it from. Also, there is a liquid metal repair specifically designed to withstand 2000 degree temps, which most automotive stores sell, called ThermoSteel (and I've seen it around with another name which I don't recall right now). JB Weld will NOT work.

-Craig
 
dett21 said:
Whats DPR stand for? Off-topic, but if I'd kept that damn
magazine I'd have remembered it. Glad someone knew
what I was trying to think of.
Dan Panamore Racing? :D I remember reading about his GSR head work a long time ago, but I've haven't even heard his name mentioned in the last few years. If I remember the issue of Turbo correctly, he welded more material in the combustion chamber and then machined it flat.

http://www.dpr-racing.com/
 
you should be able to just grind down the crack and then weld it, eliminating the crack altogether. This is of course assuming the crack is relatively shallow and the welder is proficient enough to understand the job.
 
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