A friend of mine resently put in a big 16g turbo and high pressure fuel pump. He says that after the install his car did not feel any faster and in fact may feel slower because of the increased turbo lag. Unlike mine his turbo is not ported and clipped so i told him maybe thats why. But he figured he should get some kind of gain from just going from the stock turbo up to the big 16g because it flows 40% more air than the stock tubo @15psi. I don't know what to tell him and maybe you guys may know something I dont. He has a 92 talon AWD with magnacor wires, cold plugs 2.5 inch DP, Catback, Staight pipe, XS boost contoller and UIC pipe. his car has alot of miles on it but compression checks out fine according to him. Any help?
Big 16g problems
DSMscreamer
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Well then, I am going to have to convince my wallet that a BIG 16G is all that can go on my baby 
Thanks for the help. I just hope it will get me to the times I want to do in a FWD.
Thanks for the help. I just hope it will get me to the times I want to do in a FWD.
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Maybe this will convince you, Check out his mods and times.
http://www.notabusinessracing.org/smithey
Sure every car is different but I've seen many DSMs running 1/4 mile above 110mph w/ the right mods on a big16g. The big16g can definately do the job. There is a guy that was from S.Florida that ran 12.1@114mph on a small 16g. It's all about the right combo and tuning.
http://www.notabusinessracing.org/smithey
Sure every car is different but I've seen many DSMs running 1/4 mile above 110mph w/ the right mods on a big16g. The big16g can definately do the job. There is a guy that was from S.Florida that ran 12.1@114mph on a small 16g. It's all about the right combo and tuning.
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Yeah that is Ross Lapkoff... that is why I was still thinking about the Small 16G.
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6,280 Posts
hey boosted20G, what kinda Z28's are you beating with that t-25???? i know its not the ls1's right?
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271 Posts
I dunno... I've raced about all body styles and beat every one, what years are the LS1s?? I have quite a bit of stuff done though... everything but the turbo basically.
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z28s aren't all that quick anyway... I can pull on an auto ws6 that my buddy has pretty easy... and have only lost a car length on a c5 on a little encounter on 75
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When I had a cat-back, filter, UIP, 1g BOV, and no boost controller, I was able to keep up (meaning they we were side by side) with 2 different LS-1s in 2nd and 3rd gear, in 4th they would just leave standing there. They were gone. Z-28's wouldn't pull away or fall back either, it was very even all the way to about 100mph. I just got my clutch so I can't wait to install it and lay it on these V-8s again.
Carlos
Carlos
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271 Posts
Yeah you really don't need a whole lot. Hey let me know how you like that clutch when you get it in!
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213 Posts
May do it in a week or so. I'm shopping around for a good mechanic to do the clutch. Of course for a good price as well. I may be able to get some of my local DSM friends to give me a hand. They have done their own too.
My biggest complaint will be the pedal pressure. It's a huge difference compared to the stk clutch. I've driven a DSM with a 2600 and I was like damn!!! I've also driven my friends GS-T with a Clutch Masters stage 4 and feels just like a stk clutch but holds like an ACT 2600. BUT, the Clutch Masters is almost $500 bucks. So I couldn't afford that right now.
I'll try and remember to keep you poted. BTW, 3 other friends with GSTs said they loved the 2600. So I'm sure it'll be fine.
Take care,
Carlos
99 GS-t
Orlando DSM
My biggest complaint will be the pedal pressure. It's a huge difference compared to the stk clutch. I've driven a DSM with a 2600 and I was like damn!!! I've also driven my friends GS-T with a Clutch Masters stage 4 and feels just like a stk clutch but holds like an ACT 2600. BUT, the Clutch Masters is almost $500 bucks. So I couldn't afford that right now.
I'll try and remember to keep you poted. BTW, 3 other friends with GSTs said they loved the 2600. So I'm sure it'll be fine.
Take care,
Carlos
99 GS-t
Orlando DSM
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271 Posts
The life on a clutchmasters isn't as long though is it?? I'm sure the 2600 will be just fine, the pedal pressure is nothing to me right now, so maybe some more will just make it feel like something is there. I don't do my driving back and forth to work with it so I'm sure just for night time and weekend warrior driving it will be just fine. Yeah I am just installing my own with a buddy of mine that has done a couple himself including his own... DSM labor is a lot cheaper than a mechanic, hehe.
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Yeah the clutch will be fine. I don't know if the Clutch Masters last as long as the ACT's. My friend with the Clutch masters is the one thats gonna help me out this weekend. I just have to find a machine shop that works on Sundays that can machine the flywheel for me. Can't wait.
Carlos
Carlos
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271 Posts
That is one important question I have... I have a new Fidanza Flywheel sittin right next to me, do I have to have anything done to it so my Clutch works right??
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Not that I know of. It should be ready to install, like new brake rotors. You don't need to get it machined or anything. If you have more questions start a new topic. Others may know more than me on that. I know in my case I need to have it machined before installing the clutch on. That's because I have the stk flywheel. Yours is new.
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Yeah I figured as much, but with a lot of money in mods at stake I thought it wouldn't hurt to ask.
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232 Posts
I'd like to toss in my timeslips and thoughts to the thread. I ran 13.504 @ 102.5 @ 18psi on pump gas with:
Hacked air can, MAF mods.
Stock I/C pipes.
MBC.
Rewired stock fuel pump.
1G exhaust manifold, mildly ported.
Big 16G, mildly ported.
Stock 1G O2 sensor.
Stock downpipe.
2.75" downpipe back, Borla muffler.
ACT 2100.
I just added S-AFC, Walbaro 255, complete I/C kit (upper and lower), 2G mani (ported), and 2.5" downpipe (with 2.5" flex). I'm expecting 12.xx come spring, 12.5 come fall with just more tuning.
I say Big 16G, no questions. Lag isn't rough, 18psi @ 3000-3500 or so. And I like the idea of breaking into AND out of the 12's on the same turbo.
Hacked air can, MAF mods.
Stock I/C pipes.
MBC.
Rewired stock fuel pump.
1G exhaust manifold, mildly ported.
Big 16G, mildly ported.
Stock 1G O2 sensor.
Stock downpipe.
2.75" downpipe back, Borla muffler.
ACT 2100.
I just added S-AFC, Walbaro 255, complete I/C kit (upper and lower), 2G mani (ported), and 2.5" downpipe (with 2.5" flex). I'm expecting 12.xx come spring, 12.5 come fall with just more tuning.
I say Big 16G, no questions. Lag isn't rough, 18psi @ 3000-3500 or so. And I like the idea of breaking into AND out of the 12's on the same turbo.
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271 Posts
yeah you have a good point, I think I have made my mind up on the Big16G, the next question is, which Big16G is the best?? Think the TRE one with all his mods will outperform the others?? Thanks.
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I got mine via RRE for $595, unported unclipped, but I'll eventually send mine to TRE for porting along with my 2G mani and O2 housing... I ported my exhaust pieces in my garage, but only mildly. TRE takes a while to get any work done, but it's GREAT quality work.
Get unclipped for fast spool time, clipped for top end ('high spool'). I do mostly city driving, not much highway racing, so spool time was more important for me.
Get unclipped for fast spool time, clipped for top end ('high spool'). I do mostly city driving, not much highway racing, so spool time was more important for me.
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$595 sounds like a great price. SO you are saying I should just get it ported and leave it unclipped?? or is it worth the extra lag to clip it as well??
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Personal preference. There for sure isn't one way to get 13's, and just as many ways to get 12's. How you get there is your way. I'm going unclipped and ported. Listen to the other people's stories, what they get with their setups, and ask if they really like it. If you spend a lot of time at 5000+ rpms at max boost, clipped will help you get more power. If you spend a lot of time at low RPMs and getting into traffic, unclipped will get you that quick spool time.Boosted20G said:
I guess the question is "How do you drive?"
Personaly I think the big 16g is a good choice. The cost difference is minimal. I have a ported and clipped big 16g. My reasoning was as follows: Our cars will already smoke anyone off of the line, but relativly speaking, they are slow after that. Therefore I decided I could live with a little lag, because the high rpm difference will be be worth it. Right now I get slow spool up, around 3700-3800 RPMs. However I think it might drop a little as I am missing a couple exhaust mani studs. Even so, it doesnt bother me, because once it hits hold on! You shouldnt be dropping that low in the RPM band anyways when you are racing, and for the race from a roll you should be already downshifting folks. If you are racing at 3000 RPMS, then you need to get a clue. For regular driving, etc, it still doesnt bother me. When do you need 17 psi for regular driving? And the biggest difference you will notice is at the track. Put in some race gas, and the big 16g is very efficient for high boost. With all the people running 20gs, t3/4s and franks on the street, I don't understand why you guys are afraid of the big 16g. Spend the extra $100, its worth it. As for the clipping, thats a personal choice, but its not that bad, trust me.
Travis
Travis
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