What is more common for failure, slave or master cylinder? I am having trouble with clutch pedal travel. The clutch engagement is closer to the floor and i'm not getting full pedal pressure like I used to. I start to feel pressure like halfway down. I'd hate to be out and my clutch not return, that would suck! I suspect I need to re-bleed the clutch or the slave or master cylinder is going bad. Symptoms sound familiar to anyone?
Slave or Master cylinder?
dsmperformance
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What is more common for failure, slave or master cylinder? I am having trouble with clutch pedal travel. The clutch engagement is closer to the floor and i'm not getting full pedal pressure like I used to. I start to feel pressure like halfway down. I'd hate to be out and my clutch not return, that would suck! I suspect I need to re-bleed the clutch or the slave or master cylinder is going bad. Symptoms sound familiar to anyone?
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2,660 Posts
IMO, in the snow belt the slave would go first.
check for fluid around both
My pedal didn't come back real far one day but i was in a hurry so I left anyway, after a flatbed etc... I was only 2+hours late for work(had a spare car).
It was one of my worst experiences
after the faulty part is replaced...
check for fluid around both
My pedal didn't come back real far one day but i was in a hurry so I left anyway, after a flatbed etc... I was only 2+hours late for work(had a spare car).
It was one of my worst experiences
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Look for fluid up under the dash and look at the rod and the area under it.
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dsm1995gst said:
That is exactly where my problem is. I never though of looking inside! Would I be better off going with Genuine Mitsubishi parts or AutoZone stuff? Thanks.
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my master went slowly
my master was leaking into the interior of my car and with a new clutch early in the moring i would grind to 1st 2nd 3rd until it went about a mile or two but my point is what i have heard from some people is that if the master goes out replace the slave if the slave goes out just replace the slave. But i dont believe any is more likley to go out just check for leaks.
my master was leaking into the interior of my car and with a new clutch early in the moring i would grind to 1st 2nd 3rd until it went about a mile or two but my point is what i have heard from some people is that if the master goes out replace the slave if the slave goes out just replace the slave. But i dont believe any is more likley to go out just check for leaks.
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My master cylinder was leaking there and I rebuilt it, and it has worked fine ever since. The rebuild kit is around $20-$30 at the dealer and the actual replacement is up near $100 I think (and both are cheaper online of course, if you are willing to wait).dsmperformance said:
BTW, rebuilding the cylinder is very easy.
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I recently raplaced both the master cylinder and the slave cylinder and after bleeding the cluth seems to not have as much pressure as normal. It goes in geer but the clutch returns slowly, any ideas?
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98_GSturbo said:
If it is very cold outside(10f) or you didn't bleed it good enough. The master doesn't hold much fluid so it is easy to let it go dry when bleeding.
It could be other stuff but most likely air.
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98, did you buy this car new, or secondhand, if secondhand, was it modded at all, maybe the previous owner took out the restrictor in the slave cylinder before you bought it, when you replaced it with the new slave w/restrictor it would make the pedal come up considerably slower
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