Rebuilding head got some questions about cams and other stuff

1992TalonTSi · Feb 22, 2003

OK over the summer when it gets warm again im gonna rebuild my whole cylinder head cuz 105,500 Miles on it now and i know there is something wrong with the head some valves might be bent. I was thinking about getting new cams also along with other parts. Which grind to choose tho.

Web Cam 453/228 grind
Web Cam 452/228 grind
Web Cam 546/547 grind

I want something i can drive on the street and that gives good performance boost.

Also im gonna get new lifter to solve this annoying clicking noise. I cam accross a new kind of lifter on www.turbotrix.com its a solid lifter i dont know how it exactly differs from 3G lifters. Her eis a pic of it http://www.turbotrix.com/images/lash_adjuster.jpg

Also gonan get new valves i was gonan get Stainles Steel Valves but i saw Nitrite Coated Stainless Steel Valves but they only come in oversize sizes. of 0.5mm and 1.0mm i dont kno if they would fit in the stock head or i have to get it modifed and how much it would run me?

Also im getting the complete underdrive pully system which consists of the crank pully, alternator pully and waterpump pully. Dont know if i should get new cam gears or just stick with stock cam gears.

Also are ARP Head Studs a good buy to upgrade them while im at it?

What else do you recommend i do while the head is off?

Doing the labor myselfe so its gonan save allot of money and i can take my sweet time.

ImBoostedRu · Feb 22, 2003

I would get a valve job done while you have the head off, this will make sure that the valves seat properly. If you do have bent valves you may of cracks a valve guide when they bent, requiring you to replace them. As for the cams i would prob only get the 546/547 the others will prob not idle very well and you would not have a streetable lower end. I think the solid lifters would actually be louder than the stock hyd. lifters. The stock cam gears will prob be fine since i have heard that the adj. gears really dont do much for DSM's. I would also get the ARP studs while you have the head off since you should replace the bolts anyway and the studs will not stretch like the standard bols. Since you are upgrading the cams i would also get stiffer valvesprings and maybe even lighter retainers if you want to be able to rev higher when you get the cams.

1992TalonTSi · Feb 22, 2003

well im also getting bronze valve guides. do i still have to bring the head somewhere and have it redone? how do i go about installing oversized vavles on my head. I was thinking about ordering the titanium retainer and the titanium valve spring. But when i rev high it wont damage anything else? do the retainer and the springs are the only thing that limit the rev on the car and when i replace them nothing else will get damaged when i drive at high rpm's? Those are the best cams u think to get? i want the car drivable on the street with the cams but with max power ad mid to high rpms

1992TalonTSi · Feb 22, 2003

Also with the solid lifter if i were to put them in they would have a louder ticking noise? but would they help in anyway or they would be the same as 3G lifters

Blackboost · Feb 23, 2003

Take a look at this head-job: http://www.taboospeedshop.com/heads.htm

Stage 3 all the way baby!!!

Then add ARP head studs and a pair of 272 HKS cams...

Rebuilding head got some questions about cams and other stuff

1992TalonTSi

ImBoostedRu

1992TalonTSi

1992TalonTSi

Blackboost

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