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2years throughout ur lifetime? :eek:
 
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LandoAWD said:
You obviously didn'y go to school for two damn YEARS to learn to spell either.



STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY.


If you don't know what it means..look up the individual words on www.dictionary.com and combine their definitions into something that makes sense to you:tree:
Just realized I didn't spell 'didn't' correctly in my post:rolleyes:
 
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Here's a good place to start -

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0208scc_tires/

The tire pressure listed on the tire is the max, safe tire pressure that the manufacturer recommends for the tire. Running, say, 70psi in a tire will result in overheating and a blowout. Think of this as the tire's air pressure "redline".

The manufacturer's suggested tire pressure takes into account the weight and suspension design of the car. This is typically a good place to start.

Running tire pressures that are too low will result in sloppy handling, increased wear, and more rolling resistance. Pressures that are too high can make the car darty and increase wear at the center of the tire's tread, not to mention losing some of your contact patch.

Dale
 
Just to point out what I have been saying the entire time...... In the article posted above "Tire Pressure Hints" from Sport Compact Car. Some good points are made. As the article says a good place to strart. But notice at the end of the article "Tire Pressure Hints" It states For more information, consult your tire manufacturer. So in the long run it states what I have been saying. It will be dependent upon that specific tire manufacturer. Not just what is reccomended on some sticker that is slapped on the car. That sticker cannot possibly be right for every tire manufacturer out there. Its impossible.
 
blu_gxl, did you go to school oriented in regular auto service? Because I did, and they teach you everything based on factory specs and performance, so you fix everything based on factory specs and performance. Those types won't touch the aftermarket with a 10 foot pole. They aren't going to tell you that a high performance aftermarket tire has somewhat different pressure demands than a shitty tire based on ride and wear.

One way to give you an idea about pressure...if you have FWD, do a burnout and "read" the contact patch. If it's more black on the edges, inflate, if it's more black in the middle, deflate. Repeat until the contact patch is even all the way across, copy that pressure in the rear tires. This is, of course, if you want to shave a couple thousand miles off the life of your tire. :D
If you have an AWD, obviously this won't work unless you have enough power to spin all 4. In that case, :hail:
 
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I am thoroughly appalled at the amount of missinformation this thread has spawned!! The max reading on the tire is there for just that giving you a MAXIMUM pressure. The pressure you should be running is what the TIRE PLACARD on the inside of your drivers door panel says. NOTHING ELSE. if you run 40 whatever you may (doubt it)get better GAS mileage but I guarantee you will wear a line around the center of your tire. The pressure on the door panel indicates the correct pressure for the weight of the vehicle, REGARDLESS of what tire you are running. The only reason you should adjust pressure is to suit your driving style. by no more than 2-4 lbs. If i remember correctly the TRUE pressure for a 1g talon AWD is 32lbs front and 33lbs rear.


MUCH PROPS TO ALLTRBO. they also make a chalk spray so you dont have to burn out and warm up your tires then cool them and adjust. spray it on, roll the car a couple of feet and check the chalk on the tire.
 
Just in case anyone is curious, this is straight off Goodyears website...

Always maintain inflation pressure at the level recommended by
the vehicle manufacturer as shown on the vehicle placard or in
the owner’s manual:
repair tires.
PROPER TIRE REPAIR
Retreaded passenger and light truck tires are not warranted by
Goodyear for any reason. Goodyear speed ratings and U.S.
 
blah, blah, blah ... how about Dunlop? Am I the only one who can search? :poke:

Proper inflation pressure is necessary for optimum tire performance, safety and best fuel economy. To maintain proper inflation pressure, frequently check tires (when they are cool) with an accurate tire pressure gauge. For example, it is difficult to tell just by looking at radial tires whether they are under inflated.

*

Evidence of air loss or repeated under inflation requires tire removal and expert inspection.



Always maintain inflation pressure at the level recommended by the vehicle manufacturer as shown on the vehicle placard or in the Owner's Manual. Higher inflation pressure increases stiffness which may deteriorate ride and generate unwanted vibration.



Tire footprint and traction are reduced when van, pickup or RV tires are over inflated for the loads carried. In particular, tires with aggressive tread patterns may contribute to oversteer or "roadwalk" if inflated beyond the inflation pressure specified in the Owner's Manual and vehicle placard for standard or customary loads. Over inflation also increases the chances of bruise damage.



Under inflation is the most common cause of failures in any kind of tire and may result in severe cracking, component separation or "blowout," with unexpected loss of vehicle control and accident. Under inflation increases sidewall flexing and rolling resistance resulting in heat and mechanical damage.


Don't make me go to B.F. Goo:freak: drich....

at least the archives will have some proper info this time.
 
Uhh, wtf? Who in their right mind that knows about cars thinks that it's proper to inflate to near the tire maximum pressure rating? That's a MAXIMUM pressure rating, to tell you what not to go above. It has nothing to do with recommending how much to inflate the tire to. Last I checked, all tires, even performance ones, use the same air to inflate them, and the tire doesn't magically know what car it is being put on.

The vehicle manufacturer knows about the weight and suspension of the car so they can get a good idea of what to set the tire pressure to. This is what the tires should be inflated to. However, for someone who cares more about performance, IMO it's OK to inflate them higher. I run 40-42psi on mine (max is 51psi on the tire) because my tires have a huge amount of sidewall flex relative to the stiffness of my coilovers (and I'm 99% sure it's not causing the middle of the tire to wear, the tires are fairly wide). But I'm doing this because I've identified a flaw and am trying to compensate for it. It has nothing to do with the fact that my new tires are rated to 51psi and my old ones were rated for 43psi.

I'm glad some people jumped in on this in the last few posts to correct the misinformation.
 
Wow, this is great. The single most important part of a cars suspension/handling, and the only part of the car that touches the road, and so many people still have absolutely no clue as to what to do with them.

When the tire manufacturers say to follow what the vehicle says to inflate tires to, they are talking about the stock size tire and wheel. NOT AFTERMARKET SIZES!!! If you look in the doorjam of a lot of late model vehicles that are offered with optional tire and wheel sizes, you will notice that they recommend a diffrent pressure for each different tire size. These sizes are usually within a few tenths of an inch of o.d. of each other, so i'm not talking about any radical plus sizing.

As you increase wheel diameter and decrease aspect ratio accordingly, you increase pressure in the tire. I don't have the specs with me now, but I will get them from work tomarrow. Working at a well respected tire store, I spend a lot of time consulting with tire and wheel manufacturers about things like these.

This might be an extreme example, but has anyone ever equiped a car with 24" wheels when it originally came with 16" wheels, and then filled the tires to the factory specs? Not only is the ride horrible (not that 24"s ride that great!), but tire wear is severely accelerated, mostly on outer edges of the tires.

If you go to a tire manufacturers website, of course they will say "follow vehicle specs". There is a liability issue. They can't possibly recommend using different tire sizes and air pressures that they haven't extensively tested.

I'm tired, more info after work tomarrow. See ya.
 
Wow some peoples answers just amazed me, I didn't know there is people so ignorant (some one that doesn't know something, not someone that is stupid) and hard headed. Why would you ride so close to the max psi??? :huh: It's like saying, "if you take acid 3 times you will become a vegitable, so you should do it 2.5 times and you'll be fine":wall:
 
pwrdby4g63 said:
Why would you ride so close to the max psi???
Off the top of my head, two reasons: because some forms of driving require a fast-responding tire and because sidewalls don't have much grip.

Of course, I do drop back into the 30s for the ride home.

- Jtoby
 
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This has been said and repeated numerous times. The placard is ONLY for the stock size rim and tire that the vehicle rolled out of the assembly plant with. You change either tire or rim to aftermarket, and that placard means nothing. :wall:
 
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