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Stage36

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
my sister had the eclipse that i took over payments on and screwed it up pretty bad but now its mine...

ive fixed most of the problems but A few remain. the one that has me puzzled right now is that there is no spark...on ANY of the cylinders. so naturally i proceed to check the distributor and its connections, but the idiot (j/k) that designed the engine layout thought it would be cute to stuff the disty under the intake manifold...

Has anyone encountered this problem or know which plugs/harnesses i should be checking, and if theyre all solid, then where do i go from there... thanx...
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
youre saying the coil is external? and im not sure if im getting fuel or not, how do i check? (please dont tell me i have to pull the injectors). and where are the cam sensors? thanx...i appreciate it.

BTW the MX-6 has an internal coil and is known for going out... mine hasnt gone yet... but you see how i would begin with checking disty assembly, etc...
 
An easy way to check if your getting fuel is to crank it a few times, and them pull one of the plugs. If its wet with fuel, the youre getting it, if not, youre not.

The cam sensor is on the back left corner of the valve cover, on the side, attached to the intake cam. It has a big connector going to it, and is held on by two 12mm bolts.

To check it (you need an ohm meter, you can get one at Radio Shack for pretty cheap):

1. Detach the harness.
2. Attach the ohm meter to terminal 4 (There are only 4 terminals, going in order 1234, but, I dont know which side #1 is on, so check both outside ones), and and ground the other probe of the meter. You are checking it for continuity. If it doesnt have cont. the sensor is no good.
3. If it has continuity, with the key on, attacth the meter to termial #1 (again, check both outside termianls). it should have between 4.8 and 5.2 ohms. If its not within that range, is no good.

But, hopefully it is, because thats a pretty expensive part. Remember, you only have to check this if youre not getting fuel.

You can also check the coil. There is no ditributor on these cars (except the 1.8L).

-Dave
 
Stage36 said:
no distributor....wierd...
Not really. I dont think any cars have distributors anymore. Its called DIS (ditributorless ignition system). Bascially, the ECU sends a signal to the coil when its supposed to fire, and it does.

I suppose your not getting any spark from the coil either. I suspect a bad coil. Im not really sure how to check it though. But, you can try going to the auto parts store, and picking one up, and replacing it.:) But make sure its returnable, just in case. I think it should be. If its not the coil, the only other thing I can think of is the ignition module. But try the coil first.

-Dave
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Rags said:
Pull the oilcap and have someone crank the engine while you watch the camshaft inside the opening, make sure it moves, if it doesn't then you probably need a timing belt.

Rags

actually, my sister was racing (illegally) and was shifting from 3rd to 4th. well...umm... she sorta hit 2nd instead of 4th so she blew her engine. we bought a new one and i would hope that they replaced the timing belt...i hope. but ill check anyways... how fast would she have been going at the 3rd gear redline?

does anyone know what sort of voltage i should be pulling from the triangle connector thingy (the one that goes to the coil, 3 terminals)? that way ill know right away if its the coil or the transistor, before or after the connector, etc...
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
okay ill check that tomorrow...did it say which pins those are? and what voltage is coming out of the other side of the harness?
 
Its really hard to understand the diagram, but I think its supposed to be that between any two. But its not voltage, its resistance, and the battery should be disconnected when you test it. You should pick up a shop manual, they have much more info than me.:) You can get it form a dealer, they are about $75 I think, but well worth it. Why dont I have one, you ask. Becuase I dont have any money.:)

-Dave
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
no voltage??? then why have a resistance? common electronics theory and ohms law tell us that if you divide the voltage by the resistance, you get current. so.... if theres a resistance, and no voltage, what is the resistance resisting? it probably says it in the shop manual. nobody on this board has a shop manual??? ill just get my meter and start testing and hopefully i dont blow up my $350 meter...

and im not gonna buy shop manual because i could be selling this car pretty soon... but if not ill buy one... i havent decided yet...
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
its the coil...

with the key in the on position, i pulled 12 volts out of the top pin (lets say the harness clip is on the bottom) with reference to the other two pins AND with reference to ground... whats wierd is that i pulled a 40K resistance with the two bottom pins to ground. also i found a harness just floating around... can you check your chiltons electrical schematics in the engine electrical for an underhood harness with green/black and a blue/yellow wires. i couldnt find what it plugs to so oh well...LOL

also does anybody know how much a coil costs?
 
I didnt mean that theres no voltage, I meant your not testing for voltage, just ohms, at least thats what the book says. If you cant find anything that the connecter plugs into, it might be a test port. There are a few of those hanging out along the firewall to test various things.

-Dave
 
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