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who wants to help me take out my a/c components

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Aftershock

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ok everyone, all i want to know is the easiest way to take out my a/c compressor, and condensor. Basically the easiest way without removing too much shit. Today is Tuesday, and i dont have to work til friday. However i am taking off my alternator too, which i asked about in a different post. Right now I have the a/c belt off. Isn't everyone proud of me.......im not stupid lol, just would like to know the quickest/easiest way. I just a zc engine swap into a crx...my roomates car. So I do know what im doing :)

Thanks in advance guys.
 
#2 ·
Lol, a ZC engine swap in a CRX? thats plug-n-play. try an H22A swap, and then this will be me: :hail:

anyhow, i think you might be able to pull it out thru the wheel well. If you take off your driver front wheel, and have the car jacked up by the body, there should be enough suspension drop to get it out that way. if not, then get under the car and drop the driverside front-to-back X-member. Its 2 bolts in the front, 2 countersunk bolts near the middle, and 2 bolts in the very rear. Or, you may just be able to pull it out towards the rear engine mount.

There are only 4 bolts holding it on, one electrical connector, and i think 1 bolt holding the AC lines to the pump itself.

becareful though, that biotch is heavy, so dont come back all mad at me iff you have an AC-compressor-shaped indentation on your face :)

good luck
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
lol, h22 swap into a crx. Thats clost to impossible. Good thing is we did this swap in about 3 days total. Anyways thanks for the idea's. Do i have to empty the system or freon or what....how do i do that. Also what about the condensor and lines going into the car if there are any what do i do about those. Oh and yes it would be your fault if i have a compressor inprint on my forehead, I already have a cherry picker "hook" bump on my forehead lol, one more wont hurt i guess lol.
 
#4 ·
Dude... chicks Dig scars :)

anyhow, I will do an H22 swap one day... as soon as my GF lets me. all it takes is a Non-SH set-up, custom axles from Driveshaftshop.com and motor mount set (which costs an arm and a leg) and sacrifice your AC and PS. but I have too many on-going projects as we speak...

1988 RX7 SE into a Mad drift car 80% complete
1991 Supra Targa Turbo into Highway monster 1% complete
1991 Talon TSi AWD into 1/4 mile monster 70% complete
1979 Trans Am WS4 into wicked cruiser/Daily 98% complete

Anyhow, if you still have Freon in the lines, just find a wrench that fits a nut on one of the Line connections or junctions. place a rag over it. And slowly start to crack the system open. chances are your Seals and O-rings are in sad shape and most, if not ALL, your freon has leaked out by now anyways. So, all you Tree-hugging, hippie, Green-Peace Sissies; dont start in on that O-zone BS. Slowly start to loosen the connection nut untill you hear some hissing. Thatll be the Freon escaping. STOP loosening the nut when you hear it start to hiss. If you keep going, youll let it escape to fast, and next thing you know, youll look like Wesley Snipes in the end of Demolition man, or T-1000 Termniator Morphing dealy guy in the end of T2... or youll just have some "Wicked bad Frostbite", either way, itll suck. so go slowly. when you hear it stop, loosen a little more. chances are that as it escapes, it builds up a frost or ice "scab" that stops the Freon from escaping, so you may THINK its gone, but its just temporarily heald up.

when its depressurized, just go and start removing stuff. Youll have to take the Radiator out to get the AC condensor/Dryer assembly out (thinner radiator-looking dealy w/ a black Pepsi-can looking thingy stuck to the front left side). Do your best to take things out in big assemblies, that way you dont have a Bajillion parts laying around. then just disconnect the AC lines that go into the heat-exchanger as it enters the Firewall behind the Battery box and just leave those connections open. Or you could seal them up w/ some Plastic plugs.

remove all the brackets and what not along with this stuff so you get a nice clean appearance instead of the "wasnt something supposed to go here?" look.
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
i can't just take my bumper off to take the condensor off. I don't feel like emptying all my rad fluid out.....i am so poor I probably couldn't pay attention. I was lucky enough to get some free oil lol. Well thanks for the help i appreciate it.
 
#6 ·
Lol, just reuse it. get a clean drain pan, and stick it under the drain-tube of the rad, drain that shizzle out. If its a clean pan, you can reuse it. youll gladly pay the extra $5 for COolant if you knew how much work was involved w/ taking out the front bumper radiator, bumper support and Bumper itself. itll save you 2 hours, so you can thank me later :)
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
lol you got it. Thanks for the help....im still a little confused about the pipes going into the firewall but i guess i figure it out
 
#8 ·
ok, well i think there is a line going from the compressor, to the firewall behind the battery box. and then it ends in a Alumium block/junction that is held to the fire wall w/ a bolt. then there is also a line coming OUT of the fire wall at that same junction that goes forward to the AC condensor. Youll see it when you take out your battery and/or tray.

basicaly, follow the lines and unbolt them as you go.
 
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#10 ·
how much do zc motors cost my friend has a CRX that has a blown engine and he was looking at getting one, where would we go to get some prices and stuff on them. from what I heard you can just drop the motor right in and not have to do any cutting unlike the b16 swap, and can you use the same axles?
 
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#11 ·
Chy, i think that rumor is true. I think i recall hearing that the JDM CRX's had the ZC motor stock, so theres no reason why it wouldnt drop right in. but tis only like 120 hp or something, right? maybe 140?

Id go for the B16 (Si motor). 100hp/liter is something you cant reckon with, unless its a B18 Type-R motor. The H22 is quite a beast and doesnt even make 220HP unless its the Type-S motor, that might have the Golden 100hp/liter also.

try not to CUT any AC lines. I would make it a point to have the uninstall be reversible just incase youre sitting in a traffic jam some day in July and you say to yourself "man itd be nice to have some AC right about now". We were all Anti-AC when we were in Ohio and figured we would live w/o it... but when we moved to fla, and it started to hit 80*+ boy, we changed our tune right away... especially w/ a black car.
 
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#12 ·
yeah I know about the 80 and plus, jax fla baby, oh and my compreser doesnt work for me so NO AC. I had leather seats got rid of those real quick.



I have another question, one of my friends was saying something about getting an SI block and putting an LS head on it and that would make alot of HP that sounds like BS to me can you swap blocks and heads like that I would think that things would line up properly. He called in a suicide motor or some crap like that. I think i would be suicide for the motor for them to do that.
 
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Discussion starter · #13 ·
alright i will have my roomate post about the zc engine later today when he gets up. He knows more about it and is actually wanting to sell it. And he would sell everything with it, tranny, ecu, axles, intake, header, plug wires. But even if not that he would be able to explain how it drops right in and the changes that need to be made. There are a few wires you have to switch but its fairly simple. We used a different tranny and axles though. Anyways he will post later about that.

About the A/C its not gonna be going back in. I never use it anyways. Windows down is great for me. When i first got the car i never used it either, because it would make my idle jump. So oh well i mean if i could get out of it without cutting the lines that would be great just need to know how lol.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Ok guys i got everything taken out no problems. I am just curious i keep reading that you have to put part of the bracket back on with some washers or something because something about the axle. Mine wasn't connected to anything? I don't want to be missing something.

The bracket that i took out was connected to the back of the engine right above the oil pan, and next to the water pump pulley. This bracket also had another little pulley on it which i believe is the tensioner pulley for the a/c. Well get back to me i have an nt btw.
 
#16 ·
gonna snatch my AC out his weekend...(awd gotta lose some weight) doesn't look hard a all. plus i gotta lift to work on which make it easier:D

as far as honda swaps.. over her zc's are a dime a dozen they come stock in most of the CRX's and some even came with b16's in em. Germany had a loooottt of CRX's running around.

and whoever said a ls head with a vtec engine...its the other way around a ls engine with a vtec head. pretty strong engine when built right.
 
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#17 ·
German-town is right, it is the other way around, its an LS head on a normal VTEC block. those swaps are like hybrids and they end up being used as turbo motors. I have a "Friend" back in toledo who works at Showdown Motorsports who built a B18 LS motor for his Civic EX, and hes ran a 13.3@112 so far... or something like that.

The only brakcet is near the AC compressor is the Axle shaft bracket, which is used only on AWD cars w/ Equal Length half shafts. There are only 2 bolts holding it on, so youd know if you took it off cuz itd be hanging down in your face. its no biggie.

Also, that little pully dealy youre talkin about, that is the tensoiner, there is only 2 bolts holding it on i believe, you can reach them from the top. that only affects the AC system so take it off. there may also be one bolt at the bottom, i forget.
 
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#18 ·
whos german town?:confused:
 
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Dsmman
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