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RuBiCaNT99GSX

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I just got finished installing my 16G this weekend. Started on Friday after work and finished up on Saturday around 7:30... Overall it took about 12 hours with most of the work being done solo. My friends and family pitched in here and there, but overall, it was a success. I will say this, there were a few bumps in the carpet but not what I expected. The water lines which were my biggest fear hardly needed to be bent at all which was good. The real bugger was the oil return line. The holes were a pain to file down, but eventually they got there. Once everything was assembled, checked for leaks, no problems at all. I will say this, Purolator oil filters DO NOT fit an RnR O2 Eliminator downpipe. I had to run to Valvoline and pick up one of theirs because they are about 1/4 to 3/8ths shorter than the Purolator.

Driving... I downed the boost from where I was (15psi) on the T25 to about 12 or so to be on the safe side. First thing I noticed was mad boost creep. I hit WOT and it would go from 12 to 13 to 15 to 17 at which point I let off the gas. Boost spikes were not prevalent all the time as it seemed more random than anything else but that's first impressions. Also since my automagic has such sloooooooooooow shifts, I had boost spikes of up to 20psi for a second or two. I got a shift kit waiting to go in so hopefully that gets cut down a bit. Other than that, it's a tad slower to spool than the T25 (shocking, I know.. :D ) and has AWESOME top end power. Another thing I noticed, and maybe it's because I have an AT, but the increase in speed wasn't that noticeable from the T25 at first. I think it's because of the lack of the jerk back and forth when shifting and boost is built and dumped. Again, those are my frist impressions. I am planning on upping the boost tomorrow to 15 to see how it runs...
 
Where did you get the turbo and kit from? I'm debating on putting a 16G in my car and I am really worried about the install. Please share any hicups or "watch out for this" type of comments about the install.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I bought the Slowboy 2G install kit. Some things to watch out for. The most outstanding thing with their kit (which is a RRE hacker/tweaker kit) was the J-Pipe. It was welded very poorly on the compressor outlet side and had two pinholes on one of the seams. I had to take it to a friend to have the holes filled. Second thing, the bolts that attach the return line to the T25 are BIGGER than the holes on the 16G return line side. I had to use the bolts that fastened the stock oil feed line to the engine and turbo supports. I lucked out. Any other tips you want, or questions you have, let me know and i'd be happy to answer them as best I can...
 
Yeah, I also wound up using the old oil feed bolts when I did a fully ported 14b install on my 2G. I had a new oil return line, so I didn't have to file any holes. J-pipe was the same issue. I pressure tested it this weekend and found a little bit of air leaking between the weld on the J-pipe. It only leaks past 15PSI, and it's really small, so I might just let it go. As far as the boost creep issues go, I have a 3" SS turbo-back, and the 14b creeped like a bastard. I pulled the whole system apart a month after I installed it, put in a 34mm flapper, and hogged the WG passage out to 28MM. The old flapper just about fell through the passage when I was done. Now it only creeps to about 16PSI in fourth @ 7K, which I can live with considering my MBC is set there now. What I should have done while I was in there the last time was removed the divider between the exhaust housing and wastegate housing. That seems to really kill the creep.

Later,
Matt.
 
Strange that you mention the J-pipe because I also have the RRE J-pipe and it leaked and needed to be rewelded at the flange.
 
that pipe is just a "L" looking pipe. the short end meets where the J-pipe mentioned above ends, and replaces the 2 hose sections and resonator, connecting directly to the IC. Last time i looked, wasen't much left down there if you have a MBC.

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