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kxc36g

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Well, I failed the idle emissions test for state inspection in Texas. I passed the 3000rpm test just fine, but I could not get the car to come down on the HC for the idle test. Last year I passed; I have not made any changes except for removing the PCV. Anyone have any tips on how to get my HC down at idle? I.E. new spark plugs, emmissions pass stuff for the gas.... (the S-AFC did not have much of an effect this year-last year leaning out the settings helped at idle)

Thanks,
Chris
 
Lean it out as much as you can, bump up the base idle using the BISS (much past 1000 RPM might cause some questions), run lower octane fuel, and bring a spare $100 for the inspector. ;)
 
Are you testing with a cat?
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
no cat, no egr, no pcv, but I did pass last year.

I am damn close to passing this year. The cut off is 220 and my car was ranging from 260-300. Last year when I leaned it out it made a big difference in HC emissions. This year it hardly had any effect. I don't know why. My guess is that the larger injectors (which were on there last year) are causing the problem. I did add an AFPR this year and I bumped up the base setting a little. I don't know if fiddling with this will help or not.

Low octaine fuel helps?
I am looking for just about anything that will get me a little cleaner burn. If that means different fuel or fuel additives I will try that.

Thanks,
Chris
 
I have seen a product on the shelves in Ontario, Canada that if you use it, you are gauranteed to pass or you get your money back.
Don't know if you would have it down there I will check for the name of it the next time I see it.
 
The product is called G2P (Guaranteed to Pass emission formula)

Here is some info

You can buy it here. I'm sure you can buy it other places for different prices. I didn't look to hard.

I've never used it myself, but would try it if my car failed the test.
 
Read the disclaimer on that G2P stuff. They say that if your car has other mechanical issues then the guarantee is void. Most old cars that fail emissions have some sort of mechanical issue, like valvestem seals that weep a little oil, slightly worn oil rings, etc, there's plenty of stuff that wears down over time.

HC is from unburnt gas or oil. If you get enough blow-by to push the dipstick out when you boost, then you could be pushing some oil into the intake and exhaust through the turbo seals and valvestem seals. It won't be much, but it's enough to foul a cat and throw off the O2 sensor and make it run richer.

Before every smog check I like to get a fresh set of BPR6ES plugs, gap them to .035, fresh O2 sensor, and I pull the fresh cat out of the closet and put it on. I like to get the motor up to high temps by cruising on the freeway at about 70-75mph for at least 1/2 hour. If you have an EGT you've seen the temp hold around 750-800 degrees C while cruising on the freeway. Nice and hot. I don't hit boost all day before a smog check just in case blow by pushes some oil out. HTH and good luck.
 
If anyone is having emissions problems, the following procedure will do the trick.

NEW cat
New 02 sensor
tune-up
seafoam

If it doesn't pass with the following, then you are really in for some fun...NOTE this is obd I recomended..obdII has its own way of doing things...
 
my 95 GS eclipse failed the idle part of emissions. everything else passed perfectly since i have a new motor in my car. has around 600 miles on it since motor replacement.. the place that put the new motor in said my iac value is or was bad basiclly had to be replaced, but qouted me around $300 for the part.. or i could get one off a junked gs... well havent got the part yet.. went to autozone and they said they had iac value for $69. but ya i need to figure it out so i can pass emissions.. has after market intake and exhaust... i can smell my exhaust runs little rich.. but i need to fix the issue. cars been sitting and im sick of being car less after spending $5g's on replacing the motor. so need ideas or anyone that has previously fixed same type of issue.. help me.. lol
 
It's pretty simple once you understand what the source is for every type of gas they test for. As mentioned earlier, HC is excessive unburnt petroleum from either fuel or oil. You need to lean out your A/F ratio. Realize that the ECU is going to do everything in its power to make sure you're idling at stoich. And if it's successful in doing so, you shouldn't have any problems passing emissions, so thus there's either a problem with the ECU's ability to control A/F, or it's getting incorrect sensor input data.

First start by making sure your front O2 sensor is working properly. Sounds like it might be lazy. The front o2 sensor is the biggest player in a/f ratio. Another input that affects A/F ratio is coolant temp sensor. I'm pretty sure the 1g is the same as the 2g in that it has 2 coolant temp sensors - one for the cluster, and one for the ECU, so the coolant gauge working doesn't mean the ECU is getting a signal. The MAS has an indirect affect - if it's not reading right it'll change the A/F ratio, but then once the o2 sensor sees that change it should correct for it, however it could cause the ECU to surpass it's range of correction. This is how your SAFC corrects for larger injectors, so checking that it's working fine should be next.

Once you've made sure all the inputs are good, move onto mechanical. You don't need to check outputs, because if you're inputs are correct, there's no reason for your outputs to be bad (injector pulse times and such). This is where you're going to check your AFPR, intake pipes and hoses and such. This is also where a cat would help as well.

A simple way to force the car lean is to turn down the fuel pressure since you have the AFPR. You'll eventually turn it down past the point that the ECU can correct for, and start running leaner.
 
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