what the difference are there any advantages, disadvantages. Any info you guys got would be helpful
ball bearing vs. non ballbearing turbos?
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dragsm
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The advantages are a quicker spool and better transient boost response. For example, and L2R like I use, can support up to 30 psi and 550 hp, while reaching full boost around 3500-3600 rpm, the same range that a much smaller, non-ball bearing turbo would reach full boost at, ie. between a 16g and 20g.
The disadvantage is cost.
Some people believe that reliability may also be an issue, but I personally have had no problems and I am not aware of any. Also. one difference is that the ball bearing turbos need a lower psi of oil flowing through them, so on a DSM, the oil feed from the head is used.
The disadvantage is cost.
Some people believe that reliability may also be an issue, but I personally have had no problems and I am not aware of any. Also. one difference is that the ball bearing turbos need a lower psi of oil flowing through them, so on a DSM, the oil feed from the head is used.
GO BALLBEARING!!!!!!!!!!
It should last longer since it is less affect by compressor surge. But dirty oil will kill it faster than a non-ball bearing turbo. Use an oil line filter for the turbo.
Its is better in every other way if you can afford it.
It should last longer since it is less affect by compressor surge. But dirty oil will kill it faster than a non-ball bearing turbo. Use an oil line filter for the turbo.
Its is better in every other way if you can afford it.
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1,286 Posts
Extreme turbo and Precision turbo have both told me ballbearing turbos don't handle nitrous to well. I like nitrous so I haven't used any BB turbos, but if I changed my mind I couldn't turn down an FP-30 for the price they are and they have proven #s.
All Garrett BB turbos use GT wheels, with the possible exception of the 60-1 wheels in some GT-13 turbos. The Turbonetics BB CHRA does nothing for response, waste of money. The standard wheels are better for pump gas boost levels. So the real question is do you plan on runnning at the higher boost pressures where the GT wheels show their advantage? I'm getting a FP 3055 myself.
The only explanation I could think of for the turbos not being suited for nitrous is that the ball-bearing design means a quicker spool for a turbo that would normally need nitrous to spool at an acceptable rate. I can't see nitrous hurting anything (any more than with a conventional bushing turbo) with a BB turbo, but PTE and Extreme know more than I do.
Bigfoot hit the nail on the head, if your running 25+ psi and race gas than the bb turbo is for you. If you want good numbers at 20 psi and pump gas get a non-bb. I have a GT-11 Ball bearing turbo and have been very disappointed w/ it's output on pump. I had it dyno tuned w/ dsmlink and at 21 pounds I only saw 327 whp yet I throw in race gas and bump the boost to 24 and saw 372 whp. Mind you I'm an A/T.
~B
~B
Tev, I meant no disrespect to you or your L1R. I've read many a post about your car and your experience w/ that turbo. I prolly should have looked at the L1R a little more before choosing mine. Just in general ball-bearing turbos and pump gas don't put up the numbers that most people would consider a decent dyno pull. They seem to excel better on race gas and higher psi. That's all I was trying to say. I love mine however it doesn't spool on the same level you M/T guys do but the power is plenty for me on pump, however at 24-25 psi and race gas it's a whole nother beast.
~B
~B
Well I like to have options. Like I said, nobody makes a standard wheel Garrett BB turbo. The FP 3055 is a quality turbo, Tex is getting 456whp at 21lb. w C16. But if I can't reach similar numbers on my pump gas street car, well put it this way the 56 trim GT wheel is 3.0", the 60 trim 2.95" and the 50 trim is 3.0"
No offense taken. Just stating that blanket statements are generally wrong (Isn't this an oxymoron? Using a blanket statement to say how blanket statements are usually wrong?1PHAT99 said:
)The reason most BB turbo's tend to like higher psi and race gas is because with the faster shaft turn speeds (spin up time), you can mount bigger wheels to flow more air, and hence run higher psi and need higher octane gas on our 2.0l engines.
Look at the VW/Audi setups etc. What we consider fast spool up times they consider laggy as hell.
I'll second Sean's post. Plus, I've not seen too many "smallish" wheels mounted BB, but I'll admit I haven't really looked everywhere either. FP turbos have ran the numbers and are proven so I stopped there.Tevenor said:
I think FP really has something with the FP30 series of turbos. I consider my FP3065 very streetable. Although I've not gotten to the track yet, I moved to a different state and I changed more than just the turbo on my Talon, I know my car is faster on 91 octane pump gas now at 22 psi than it was on C16 at 29 psi last race season. Kind of apples to oranges, but still.
I'm comfortable saying after experiencing/having this "very large" BB turbo and seeing other's comments and experiences with other BB center sections that I'd rather have a BB center section with a somewhat larger wheel. Great numbers on pump gas, yet even better airflow and potential at the track when you do go.
I'm gonna have to have somebody else in the club here who posts here drive my car and chime in their opinion.
A Green, a Red, or the FP3055. All can be found here Forced Performance, are proven turbos and fit your budget goal.
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A 20G would suit those criteria just fine.am00re34 said:
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