#@&% I think I blew my engine on my "new" car...

ultrabaka · Sep 6, 2003

Ok, here's the story so far. I picked up a 90' GSX yesterday with 137k on the body and supposedly 65k on the motor. I got it registered today and started learning how to drive stick all morning. I was doing great and only stalled it a couple times at some stoplights, so I was driving for about 2 hours or so. I took it on the highway a couple times and I felt very comfortable controlling it so I wanted to test it out so I got it up to 115 briefly and a few minutes later I was cruising at around 80-90 and I heard it backfire and then I couldn't give it any gas.

I pulled over and I couldn't start it so I called AAA and got it towed to my house. I was hoping I ran outta gas our something (even though the gauge indicated 1/4 tank full) but my step-dad thinks I blew the engine, which is probably the case. The engine remained very hot, there was no smoke, but a little oil on the front part of the valve cover and there was black soot-like stuff on the outside of the turbo (which I never noticed before I bought the car).
I'm not sure what could have caused this, because it happened so fast. I was in 4th or 5th at the time and I doubt I shifted in to a lower gear or the wrong one. The car has an air fuel gauge which would show "lean" and "rich" occasionally but I figured it wasn't accurate (because what I've heard about these gauges and because it didn't stay consistent), but I'm wasn't looking at it when it happened.

At first I didn't think it was the engine because it didn't seem like a huge explosion and I didn't see any rods or pistons come out on the road. I'm really pissed right now, mostly at myself for going hard on the car before I had it inspected, but the whole situation is f*cked up. Hopefully I'll find out it's something cheap, but I'm prepared for the worst. Any ideas, comments, flames, etc. are welcome. The mods on the car are: 2.5 full HKS exhaust, mbc boost control at 15psi (the previous owner said 12, but that's not what it read on the the aftermarket gauge), 255 hi-flow fuel pump (he said it hasn't been rewired yet, whatever that means..), turbo xs rfl to the atmosphere, denso iridium plugs, ngk wires, act2600, k&n, and a mildy ported 14b.

Sorry for the long post, I'm just super pissed and needed to vent.

Lasersharp65 · Sep 6, 2003

ultrabaka said:
At first I didn't think it was the engine because it didn't seem like a huge explosion and I didn't see any rods or pistons come out on the road.

Sorry for the long post, I'm just super pissed and needed to vent.

Those are 2 funny ass quotes, when an engine blows, its not like the space shuttle going up in flames.....vent that rfl!

noreaga0221 · Sep 6, 2003

well do a compression test.. that will help with us diagnosing your problem.

ultrabaka · Sep 6, 2003

In my newb defense, I did plan on getting another BOV that recirculates.

I had to go to work today so I couldn't really investigate the source of the problem, but here's an update from my step-dad that I received via e-mail:

"I have looked at the car. I did put the gasoline into the tank. I pulled the cover off for the timing belt, the belt looks okay, but that doesn't mean with all the bucking from learning to drive the car, the belt didn't jump a tooth or two or more. I also checked the oil to see if there are any chips of metal in it, it doesn't appear to have metallic chips which is a good sign but not always good news. The engine could have seized for lack of oil, although the dip stick looks like the oil was full, but the oil pump could have failed. The engine is still really hot, before I can do anything more with pulling covers etc it has to cool. The other thing, once we pull the main 'dome' cover you will need to get a new gasket. I tried to start the car, it seems that the starter is spinning freely and not engaging with the fly wheel. That could be an indication of seized motor and when you tried to start it the teeth on the starter broke off. The good news to that is.....I don't hear any pieces parts flying around when I tried to start it."

Just to further clarify, the main sound I think came from the exhaust, but again, it happened so fast I'm not 100% sure.

Ace14O · Sep 7, 2003

engine wouldnt have seized... if it did, you would have f*cking known it, and there woulda been smoke. Engine seize while in gear = instant wheel lockage, unless/until your clutch blows...

Also, you wouldn't have jumped teeth cruising at 80... once again... the car wouldn't just die, it would run shitty, OR it would have a nice loud crunching/grinding sound

I'm guessing something transmission related rather then engine... just guessing though.

HARTS · Sep 7, 2003

Ace14O said:
Also, you wouldn't have jumped teeth cruising at 80... once again... the car wouldn't just die, it would run shitty, OR it would have a nice loud crunching/grinding sound

Actually if the timing belt slips enough to make the pistons hit the valves, the car will die, and you probably won't hear anything. It happened to a lady here doing 50. No noise, the car just died.

Ace14O · Sep 7, 2003

Then why would the car not crank over? Or even try to.

If the pistons destroyed the valves, the engine should still crank over fine.... well almost fine if you know what i mean. I know what you mean, but i dont think it adds up to that.

ultrabaka · Sep 7, 2003

The engine was hot for atleast 4 hours and it still won't start today.
Any suggestions of what I can do to pinpoint the problem before I blow a mess load of $$ on towing it to a DSM shop that's nearby.

Stephen · Sep 7, 2003

eh my engine stays hot after 4 hours too

1. does the timingbelt move when you try to start it.
2. are you getting spark?
3. are you getting fuel(i.e. does fuel pump turn on)

are you also sure a intake pipe didnt shoot off?

jd1828af · Sep 7, 2003

here is a test for you:

get another person to help. one of you is in the car turning the key. have the top timing belt cover off so you can see some of the belt. have the other person watch the crank pulley while you start it. if the pulley is moving and the timing belt isnt then you are screwed.

ultrabaka · Sep 8, 2003

Thanks for everyone's help and replies. I already feel a little better even though I know I could be screwed.
I'm going to try what you suggested jd1828af tomorrow morning with my step-dad.
I'll probably end up getting the car to a pep boys Tuesday so they can run the nessecary tests on it and then take it from there.

anconover · Sep 8, 2003

gah pepboys will rob u for all ur worth. goto autozone, get a 40$ compression gauge, run a compression test ( www.vfaq.com shows how, EXTREMELY ez) thatll tell u if motor is def, also just pull t-belt casing off, check timing marks can also be found at vfaq.com will take no more than 2hrs to get both done, and ull know and save alotta money on some goof at pepboys who probly doesnt know much of junk diagnosing ur car.

ultrabaka · Sep 8, 2003

Ok I tried starting the engine while my step dad looked at the timing belt, and yes it is moving. So I guess the starter motor is probably ok.
I did buy a compression gauge, but I didn't have enough time to try it this morning before work so I'll find out the compression tomorrow. I did have time to remove the plug wires and take out the spark plugs and they didn't look too worn/burnt/corroded or anything. They were a little black though (not oil, maybe burnt) and not yellowish like the manual indicates they should be.

With the upper timing belt cover removed the teeth were all lined up correctly but I guess they could be misaligned below, right? In order to check that I'll have to somehow remove the lower cover. I haven't found the vfaq for that yet. I just hope I don't have any bent valves or worse.

How do I check to make sure the fuel system is working? Is there any way without buying a fuel pressure guage etc.?

If the compression test turns out ok tomorrow I'll change the spark plugs and buy a wire tester to make sure the wires are active and giving a spark.
Also, why do you guys think the car was so freaking hot for so long? Apparently there was a little water on the flatbet after the car was moved. I tried checking the coolant level and it looked greenish-clear and it most likely was between the two lines. Is there any better way to check, or what else should I look for?

Thanks in advance. I'm hoping to get to the bottom of this my own (with your help ofcourse

) and save some money. If compression truns out bad then I'll have it towed to somewhere that can do a leak-down test.

91TSiGuy · Sep 8, 2003

You probably checked the coolant level for the overflow bottle. Pull the radiator cap found on the thermostat neck which is mounted on the side of the head.

My guess is that you may have popped an IC pipe off or have a huge boost leak of some kind or that your ECU decided to die on you. Also, when was the o2 sensor last replaced? A faulty one will definitely cause the car to run poor especially in a rich condition and backfire if that was the case. Pressure test the system and check your ecu. They're the simplest things to check and usually the main problem for many symptoms with our cars.

#@&% I think I blew my engine on my "new" car...

ultrabaka

Lasersharp65

noreaga0221

ultrabaka

Ace14O

HARTS

Ace14O

ultrabaka

Stephen

jd1828af

ultrabaka

anconover

ultrabaka

91TSiGuy

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