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DrSKooT

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ok I've been noticing in various signatures that people are running high to mid 13's on 14b's and stock ICs. I'm wondering why with 15lbs and a stock IC the best I pull out are low 14's.

I'm a 90GST. so FWD 6bolt.... stock downpipe, gutted cat, 2.5" muffler right behind cat. HKS intake, MBC, and a lot of weightloss. at least 200lbs worth. stock suspension

Basically are there other mods that these people are doing that I'm missing? Think I'm leaking boost out of my BOV? Should I have a better exhaust. should I run race gas? If I run %50 93octane and %50 100 octane what boost could I run? how about pure 100 octane? 114? Is it because they're AWD? What type of shifting do you do? Can I run lead substiture since I don't have a cat? Are they running on slicks? suspension mods?

Basically I want to know how to run 13's on my stock turbo and sidemount. I want to get as low as I can before upgrading the turbo. so when I do I'm running 12's - 11's instead of 13's - 12's
 
Yea, it's an AWD thing. .. .. and a possably all of the things you listed and more. There are hundreds of varrables.
 
gunna be kinda tuff on a fwd without some slicks. but with slicks u could prolly get into the 13's. You still got more upgrades tho... stock downpipe :confused: ya get rid of that thing for sure. Get some race gas and turn up that boost. I mean the list is endless, just keep goin till u get what u want.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Well I've been planning on a lot of mods that would increase turbo potential as oppose to upgrading the turbo.

I want to get an evo 3 manifold, o2 dump, 2.5 downpipe, IC piping, MAYBE a blowthrough setup so I can relocate my intake to a cooler place. Just things that make sure the car can breath properly. Any other suggetions? Or do I pretty much have a grip on what I'm talking about? Sometimes I doubt myself. I'm just too poor to waste money.
 
Discussion starter · #5 · (Edited)
HEY! I came across something. I said I wanted to install a blow thou setup so I could relocate my intake... Well I just came across the definition of a Vein Pressure Controller (VPC). Could I use this in the same manner? My idea is to reroute my intake so that I can run a pipe through the wheel well (like the upper intercooler pipe is ran through) and place my filter outside of the engine compartment. this would go best with a FMIC seeing at the filter would be placed in front of where the SMIC is now... But yea... can I use this VPC to replace my MAS? how effective is it. how are the results. is it something I can use for a long time. I just don't have a full understanding of how it works... This idea is still being battled in my own head. I live in florida and there is a lot of flooding due to sudden hard rain. I would hate to dunk the intake under water by having it too low... man forget it, I have a whole new idea.....

Say? do I NEED that piece of metal between the front headlight and the wheel well? lol Like I said, limited budget and too much time on my hands
 
DrSKooT said:
HEY! I came across something. I said I wanted to install a blow thou setup so I could relocate my intake... Well I just came across the definition of a Vein Pressure Controller (VPC). Could I use this in the same manner? My idea is to reroute my intake so that I can run a pipe through the wheel well (like the upper intercooler pipe is ran through) and place my filter outside of the engine compartment. this would go best with a FMIC seeing at the filter would be placed in front of where the SMIC is now... But yea... can I use this VPC to replace my MAS? how effective is it. how are the results. is it something I can use for a long time. I just don't have a full understanding of how it works... This idea is still being battled in my own head. I live in florida and there is a lot of flooding due to sudden hard rain. I would hate to dunk the intake under water by having it too low... man forget it, I have a whole new idea.....

Say? do I NEED that piece of metal between the front headlight and the wheel well? lol Like I said, limited budget and too much time on my hands
I'm not going to get into this, but why do you think everyone's selling their blow thru setups... They're impossible to tune with. For tuning, get a 2G MAS + AFC combo. If you want it sucking air from the bumper (cold-air intake), just get the intake pipe and 2g MAS in the normal location, then run some PVC piping through where the stock IC would be and slap on a filter there, but watch out for water puddles obviously. Just get some good tires/slicks and practice launching, otherwise do a compression test and boost leak test to see if anything's leaking out or if your motor needs a rebuild.
 
When I first started to mod my car, I was stupid.:p I just kept getting parts and just put them on and felt no difference in power. I didn't know what the hell knock was or how timing is supposed to look or any of that good stuff.

Get a strong base to start off of. Make sure that the platform you are starting off of is solid(understand me? get all the little bugs and stuff worked out).

You NEED a datalogger. It saves a lot of hassle you will need it later, so just save yourself the hassle and get it now, trust me, I found out the hard way. Hope this helps, pm me for any more info.:)
 
basically get the rest of the car ready to support gains cause if the car isn't running tip top shape to begin with any mods you do are gonna be useless. That is why for now I am having fun with a few minor mods and spending my money on saving for a rebuilt trans and new axles, and a act2600 clutch kit as well as new brakes and suspension before I start doing the larger mods under the hood. Tuning is also one of the most important things when it comes to adding alot more advanced mods that go way beyond the stock systems tunability ranges.
 
i didn't have a problem with my blow thru setup, the reason i sold mine was cuz i sold the whole car and sold all the parts off of it for money to buy a 1g with. none of my friends have issues with tuning them
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
me612 - No he said the VPCs are hard to tun with and that's why people are buying the GM sensors...

I appreciate all the info you guys are throwing at me...
 
Actually.... I believe Spooling95GSX is talking about the GM Maf blow through setups. The VPC uses a map sensor and other sensors to do it's tuning adjustments with.

As for the GM maf, I'm running this in blow through setup with excellent timing advance, low knock count, max egt's of 1600, and fuel trims in the mid 90's. I'm going to turn my base fuel pressure down lower from 43psi to see how close I can get to 100% trims. Anyone who can't tune with the translator probably has other matainence issues or bugs to work out with their car first.
 
Have you tried it on the dyno yet..? The tunability of the 2g mas + afc is, imo, way better. The shop I do the site for spent several hours with 30 dyno runs with the blow-thru setup on Nate's Talon (featured on the slowboyracing.com main page with his 11.2 run). Went back with the 2g mas and afc and got much better numbers. Maybe his was just bad, who knows, but there are reasons why you can buy the whole setup used on the trader easily... cuz those people probably tried dyno tuning with it and realized that the 2g mas + afc combo was a lot more stable and ran much better.
 
No dyno time for myself yet, my car is down right now due to a broken weld on the o2 housing. However, there have been a few guys on the maf translator Yahoo group that have dynoed and the latest posting was of a guy putting down 469whp in his Galant showing consistant 11.8:1 a/f ratio on the wideband. This was after switching from using the Greddy e-manage and maf-t to tune to just the maf-t. He was having issues before which appeared to be part of the Greddy unit's fault (not necessarily it's fault, but a fault in its tuned settings).

I can't disagree that the 2g mas + afc hasn't been proven though because it has and works fine for many. For me tunability came much easier with the translator than that other setup. The only reason I personally would sell the maf-t setup is if I were going VPC or stand alone.
 
91TSiGuy said:
Anyone who can't tune with the translator probably has other matainence issues or bugs to work out with their car first.
yeah like getting it to work with the 1g cas on a 2g
 
VPC's can be difficult to tune with when it gets cold out (temp sensetive). I have yet to see a lot of problems from the maf-t (which is much cheaper than the vpc set up).

Now look at your driving to improve your times.

1. Lower tire pressure means more traction off the line, the trade off is lower top end. So look at your times, and play with the pressure until you get a nice balance of traction and speed.

2. Try a different shift point. Your car starts loosing power just after 6k. I shift by 6300. I know people think their faster because their running to redline, the times could surprise you.

3. Only change 1 thing at a time. Make at least 2 runs per change to make sure the results are accurate.

4. Have fun, I didn't see that mentioned;)

5. Back to shifting, make sure you have good tranny fluid. Yep there's awd's running mid-high 12's in the 120's because they can't hit 2nd.

6. Ohhhhhhhhhh I forget what 6 was for.

7, 7 for shifting again, make sure your shifts are as quick / clean as possible (shouldn't be hitting bump stops, or have loose cables,...)

8. Shifting again, let off the gas just enough that the rpms remain constant while you have the clutch in. Bouncing off the rev limiter will slow you down (again, shifting early will help prevent this as well).

9. Get a shorter shift knob

10. Look at your shifting again.

Cars run differently all over the country due to elevation, temp, humidity,... thats why there are so many variables. The real key is being consistant. If you drive consistantly, then you'll know for certain if a single change helped or hurt your run.
 
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