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to bring my this thread back to life. one question. is it nessary to make a block off plate or even patch the lower FIAV? Can you just loop the coolant back and leave the TB alone?
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Kagemusha said:
As far as rerouting the coolant lines go, why not just run them into each other?
Uh, that's exactly what you do. There's no coolant circulating through the throttle body, so you can leave those ports open. The other ends get looped together.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
klamath said:
to bring my this thread back to life. one question. is it nessary to make a block off plate or even patch the lower FIAV? Can you just loop the coolant back and leave the TB alone?
You'll have idle surge problems, because the pellet will take much longer to melt, therefore letting more air into the engine than necessary or expected.
 
limitup said:
I have an irritating problem where my car idles at 1500-1800 until it warms up - then it idles fine. It's not a surge between 1500-1800 ... it will idle pretty smoothly at a number somewhere between that range unless I hit the gas. It just depends ... one morning it will idle at 1500 and slowly start dropping as it warms up, the next morning it will start at 1800 and slowly drop as it warms up, etc. So it sounds like I might have some type of problem with my FIAV and/or ASC? I tried searching the archives and found lots of posts about idle surge etc but nothing about my particular problem. Does anyone have any ideas for me?
This is an old thread but I see no one answered your question.

1500 to 1800 sounds about normal to me. The amount the FIAV increases idle is controlled by a wax pellet not a computer. So, it is going to vary from FIAV to FIAV and from day to day. I swapped FIAV's on my car (I was trying to fix an idle problem). Well, the new FIAV dropped the cold idle about 500 rpm. The car was more drivable with the old FIAV/higher warmup rpm.
 
KILURV8 said:


Image


Can I just plug the rectangular hole that is reflecting in the throttle plate in the path of the airflow. That should be the right one for the FIAV. Please let me know. Thanks.
Guys, I know this is an old thread but I am about to take the plunge and need confirmation!

Are we all in agreement that I can block off either of the rectangular holes shown in the above photo to block air from the FIAV? Do they both perform the same FIAV function? These holes are located on the intercooler side of the throttlebody, as opposed to the longer rectangular holes on the intake manifold side, correct?

My plan is to JB Weld half of the hole to see if I can lower my cold idle, but I want to be sure I am blocking the correct hole :eek:

Thanks for your help!
 
You might want to check your throttle cable first. That was my entire problem. Just loosen it gradually and you will see your idle go down if that is the problem you are having. Adjusting 2 bolts saved me a whole lot of hassle.
 
One hole is for the ISC, the other is for the FIAV. The inlet (TB elbow side) shares a common passage, so if you're going to block it off, you need to do so on the outlet (intake manifold) side of the throttle plate.
 
Well....I tried my little experiment and no dice :( I blocked off about 1/2 of the air passge inside the TB from the FIAV and I still get a 2000rpm bouncing idle when the car is cold. This is really pissing me off and I need to fix it. Can anyone offer some other suggestions, short of a new TB, how I can fix this problem???


Thanks
 
I was in Colorado visiting relatives when my car suddenly would idle only at 2000 rpm. Restarting would sometimes clear the problem. It was a failed idle switch.
 
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