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DSMturbo2

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have searched around for a while on this and keep coming up boggled. I have more or less slowly noticed that my car has been losing power. now it is horrible. I am within 5000 miles of a fresh rebuild. im running a well rewired walbro 255 with no regulator :( (suspect one). 2g pistons, ported 14b. stock ngk-r plugs (new last summer and next to no miles). i notice at any throttle pos im having bad stuttering problems. i have noticed that i probably do have fuel over run till i build decent boost, but am fairly convinced that this isnt the problem. air fuel guage seems relatively normal, occasionally sticks at full lean when just cruising (new oem o2 sensor and its on a standard air fuel guage -autometer-) im sure it is an ignition problem for instance when im crusing at about 60 drop fast from 5th to 3rd and nail it it will hessitate a ton and then i can hear what from all occurances sounds like a fireball ignited and running through the full length of the exhaust system (im sure this is followed by a nice fire ball) i have not had anyone witness this- . the thing that boggles my mind is that i thought it could all just be a realy bad battery ground (noticing some build up) i had an issue last week when i turned the car off and all power went off (seatbelt stopped half way) i put the key back in and gave it a turn and the car started right up:confused: :confused: . so i cleaned up the terminals on the battery very well and put it all back together (resetting the ecu in the process of course) went for a drive and the fuel over run thing was slightly noticable but a very different feeling. but that was the only problem. it was running perfect till about 30-40 miles later and it slowly got worse:confused: :confused: . i dont know what to do. i swapped out the coil pack.. no fix.. i have many spare parts laying around that i could try but this is driving me crazy. today when i would come to a stop it sounded like there was a large vac leak oor it was running on 3 cylanders and it would come and go under set circumstances. sorry for the length but if anyone can please help me out here... i just want to drive my car before snow falls.. thank you very much. EO.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
ya i dont think it is a vac leak, pulling about 18-19 lbs vac at idle I think?? hasnt changed, anyway. coil pack was just changed, i ruled out tps because of the Any throttle position part of the problem. and the thing that has me most fooled is the whole resetting the ecu. i dont understand what that would change?? thanks for the input.
 
Why no fuel pressure regulator?
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
no fuel pressure regulator cause im a lazy broke ass colege student:D its on the list to get by spring. but i know. :rolleyes:
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
ok i just swapped out mas's (no change at all)
looked for any vac leaks and losse fittings (no tester) (no leaks found)
my spare ignition transistor is out of a 90 so it wont work:(
and lastly i put in my spare ecu again resetting it of course, and it was running 99% better again. i notice a little stumble in when taking off at very low rps (probably doesnt help wiht the act 2600) but other than that when i drop the hammer it hessitated for a sec a couple of times and then rockets off like it should??? what would resetting the ecu have to do with my shutter??? please help im sad.. thanks again EO
 
Well, no FPR is really going to screw with the ECU. The ECU figures the fuel pressure is the same all of the time and therefore adjusts the time interval the injectors are open to obtain the correct mixture. With no FPR the fuel pressure could be anything and it could be changing as you drive. So, your fuel delivery is uncontrolled.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
ok thanks for the info. i have new stuff to confuse everyone anyway.. tonight i swapped out the cas with a working one off a buddies car, and to my suprise it ran worse. :( but i figured ok its doing the same thing but obviously since i hadnt properly timed the cas thats probably why it is worse.. but still tje same problem... so i threw my cas back on and decided to do a test and rotated the cas fully clock - wise which i thought would be advance??? and it hardlly ran at all.. so i turned the other way all the way and it was running beutifully.... except now my turbo is spooling much slower but i still have more power??? the car is haulin balls. i went and played with it on my ride home and it ran amazingly... the boost creep problem i had was gone aswell (little confused here??) but by the time i almost got to my house i slowed took a sharp corner after a stop sign and really got on it ran through all the gears with 02 readings good and everything.. coasted down to a stop and the car stalled. started it back up and now it is doing that whole running on 2-3 cylanders thing again all the way till i hit my drivay then it went away again.:confused: :confused: its idleing like it is missing on one cylander with a very pronounced thud in the exhaust tone... low and behold this muat all be a huge clue... but this just sucks and makes no sense....someone please help...:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: thanks again to thoes who have tried to help. i do appreciate it..
 
Are you aware that the CAS can be installed with the disk inside 180 degrees out? There's a mark on the CAS body and a mark on the flipper that rotates and they should point toward each other when installed with the engine at TDC.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
yeah i was aware... i had it set in perfect when i did my rebuild and as i was switching cas's i just made sure that they went in the way the last one came out.. good point tho thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
uh changes info.......____ the car was actually running better and almost normal last night when the timing was fully retarded... what does that mean and i think i should be scared... i also did a compression test today and got 162-166 on all cylanders... just for info...:confused: :confused: :rolleyes:
 
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