DSMTalk Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Vibration, what could it be?

Jump to Latest
21 - 40 of 57 Posts
#21 · (Edited)
Well, I think I do notice a difference when turning different directions. I did hard back and forth turns, like a cone drill, and it seemed to make more noise going one way than the other. In any event, I came home from school for the weekend and really discovered this problem, so it will sit here until next weekend, when the new, above-listed parts should be here from Conicelli. When that happens and I freeze my balls off putting them in in my driveway, I'll let you know if it fixes the problem. Although, I'm sure that it's the bearings, because I took the wheel off today and noticed a definite wiggle when grabbing the lugs and shaking them. I'd pull up on the rotor and the axle would go down. Seems like way too much movement for me, and my more mechanically wise friend as well. We'll see...
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#22 ·
"The only thing I notice from the rear is when I slow down in gear I get a Grr,Grr,Grr noise consistant with the drive train, it could be looked at as vibration, but not enough to transmit into a shudder or shimmy"
Rodman, I have the same noise when I decelerate in gear and only at certain rpms. Could it be a bad u-joint or something else bad a bad hub? Thanks, -Tristan
 
#23 ·
From what I understand of things I have read and been told that "grr-rrr-rrr" noice on deceleration is from drivetrain slack thats developed over time from normal wear on the drivetrain. The driveshaft contact with the diffs and the axle contact with the diffs causing general wear and tear that creates slack, which is heard mostly when slowing down during engine braking.

Or so im told
Image
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#25 ·
The grr grr noise you hear is your Transfer case telling you to add oil and soon.

As for your wheel bearings, if you turn one way and the noise goes away then its your wheel bearings. If it doesn't then either its not the wheel bearings or both sides are bad. The front ones have to be pressed out the back ones don't. Just don't be a pussy, and they come out pretty easy. I used a 4 foot lead pipe and a 10 ound sledge hammer and it had little so say after a few whacks. I used the axle cup to push the new one back in, just make sure its seated right.

Good luck

Scott
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I have been digging around the front of my car latly and found there is play in the upper strut mount, it's like the bearing is shot. I suspect I am missing a few parts cuz I had a half assed mechanic do my coil overs 3 years ago. I have had them off several times, but how is one going to notice missing parts if you have no idea how the hell it's supposed to go together. Anyway I may just toss on some stock sruts and see if it makes a difference, from there I can figure out how ground controls are supposed to be assembled with the stock parts or there lack off:rolleyes:
 
#27 ·
Hi all,

I'm in the same boat. I bought my 94 gsx with 5,000 miles in sep of 1994. It has vibrated in the same manner since at least April of 1995 (i remember a highway trip then). I thought my tires were going bad and figured that a tire change would cure it, hence no trip to the dealer. After 3 tires changes and 142,000 miles later, it still does the vibration thing very badly. Should have went to the dealer when it was still new. The vibration is mostly felt in the steering wheel. I haven't tried everything on your list, but I'm tired of it vibrating and your list looks like mine to solve the problem. I know it isn't the wheels because I've babied the car and it didn't vibrate when I first got it.

As you described, the vibration comes and goes for no real reason...

I did do one thing that wasn't on your list and it might have helped a little. I used a wire brush and file on the inside of the wheel where it contacts the rotor. I also used these same tools on the rotor all around the studs. As I said, it might have helped. Hard to say because the vibration comes and goes.

The last time I got new tires, I also put new struts on and it "seemed" to fix it, but the vibration came back within several thousand miles.

Actually, I may just ditch the car cause I'm tired of wheel vibration. It really sucks to go from my wifes 330 bmw with NO vibration into my car. Oh well...

Good luck solving the problem and let us know if you do!
Jim
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
It's funny how these vibration problems are so wide spread among many DSM's. And most try many things but never solve the problem:( Makes me wonder..you know. I just got ahold of 2 front OEM strut assemblys and will see if it works. If it doesn't I will want to push it off a cliff:tree:
 
#29 · (Edited)
As promised, although a little delayed thanks to much hurdles, cold weather, lack of daylight, lack of tools and other bullshit, here's what happened with my rear wheel bearing change.

I ordered the 2 bearings and seals, 5 parts in all from Conicelli. To make a long story short, I got the new outer bearing pressed on, put the inner bearing and seal in, slid the shaft in and bolted the companion flange nut down to torque specs. Uh-oh, the wheel does not turn with the nut on. What the hell?

So I go back to my trusty Haynes manual, look at some pictures and see that the rubber part of the inner bearing seal is supposed to face away from the bearing. Funny, the seal that was in there faced the other way. Since I'm not a mechanic, I just assumed that it was supposed to go that way. But now that I see a picture, I start thinking "Hey, maybe this is why the bearing failed after only 3 or 4 years, the jackass "mechanic" who replaced it for me put the seal in backwards."

Oh well, that seal is in there now, it's getting dark and I gotta go back up to school later that night. It's been a long week screwing with this bearing, I don't care. I tighten the nut to 116 ft. lbs., the minimum range listed in the Haynes manual, and the wheel turns now, but not very easily. Put everything else back together, take it out for a ride, get up to about 50, shut the car off and have a listen, sounds absolutely great. No grinding noise that has been there for a while now.

But, the problem is, I know that nut isn't on as tight as it should be. I'd like it at leat 140-150 ft. lbs. So now I'm scared that it's just gonna let shit get in there and ruin the inner bearing again which. by the way, was the one that was in pretty bad shape. That's where I ask for some help. Am I correct in my conclusion that I put the dust seal on backwards? If so, I will buy a new one and a new bearing again and replace them.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Did this help out with your vibration problems? What about deceleration noise from the rear? As far as installing the seal backward...No idea except the fact that the rear hub nut should be tighter. Can't you tap the seal out and flip it the reinstall it, or does the seal get destroyed?
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
I grabed the wheels today and wiggled them back and forth, there is no play what so ever in the distance travled by the hub and steering wheel. One of my tie-rod ends is missing the boot, but seems tight with no play. The ball joints are smooth and tight just how I like my women. I checked out the control arms, using a pry bar I could not get any undo movement. The only slight play I can find is in the pass side hub bearing, VERY little play, but the drivers side has zero so I think the problem may be there. I even swaped in a set of OEM front shocks and springs, it tightened up the wheel some and took abit of the vibration away. I think the softer OEM shocks just helped mask the the problem though
:rolleyes:
 
#32 ·
Rodman said:
Did this help out with your vibration problems? What about deceleration noise from the rear? As far as installing the seal backward...No idea except the fact that the rear hub nut should be tighter. Can't you tap the seal out and flip it the reinstall it, or does the seal get destroyed?
Click to expand...
The vibration problems are gone as best as I can tell. Also, when I shut the car off and rolled to a stop, there was no noise whatsoever. I didn't get on it hard though because of my problem, but I am 99.99% sure the bearing was the cureall.

As far as the seal, I had to pound it in there pretty hard, and as such, when I pry that fucker out with a long screwdriver, it's most defintely going to come out messed up, especially since I will be pressing against the rubber part. So, I'll just get a new seal for like 10-20 bucks, no big deal.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#33 ·
In case anyone is still paying attention...

I put the new seal in, the right way, and now the wheel actually turns by hand when it's jacked up and the axle is removed. Almost like it was meant to be that way ;)

Anyway, yeah, vibration is gone, sound is gone, I guess it works like a wheel is supposed to now.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#35 ·
Nooooooo, only the rear vibration is gone. That was the vibration I was talking about when I chimed in on this thread. I just finished writing a paper and it's 5 AM, so I'm a little foggy right now, but I think we were talking about wheel play and you wanted to know if replacing the bearing eliminated the wheel play and vibration, which it did. Yeah, the rear wheel bearing had nothing to do with steering wheel shimmy :p
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Ah HA! Wile changing the oil today I did some more digging in and around the car. I couldn't find anything wronge with the drive shaft at all, ball joints, tierods,A-arm bushings, motor mounts, brakes all check out fine. After torqing the oil plug I looked up and noticed the inner tierod boot was leaking abit, no play though. I then tugged at the swaybar, the bushings have some play and I could actually make that clunk sound I hear when driving the car over uneven bumps, but this wasn't causing a vibration.

So I grab the inner CV joint where it connects to the carrier bearing. The bitch wiggles all over the place where it goes into the carrier bearing and you can turn it 3-5mm before the axle shaft itself starts to turn. WTF, I got these from Raxles only 2 years ago, and I have a feeling the inner joint was never up to snuff to begin with. I figured the cv axles were not the problem since they were new and form the best in rebuilt axles. I will call Marty up on Monday and see how he handles this interesting find. I know he doesn't use new inner cv joints so I can see why it failed and or never repaired properly.

I looked up a new axle today from Mitsu...500.00 for a new one, holly crap:eek:

One last thing, the carrier bearing is tight and doesn't seem to have any play, yet the inner CV side does where it slides into the carrier bearing. Is it possable that the carrier bearing on the axle shaft is shot only on the CV side?

If this fixes my 3 year vibration problem, it will be the best X-mas gift ever :D
 
#38 ·
Getting back to the original issue, seems to be two treads going here.

Hey Rodman, did you EVER find the magic bullet?

In your original post, you described my problems exactly. I have chased this issue for over 2 years to no solution. Even though my car is showing 120k, the suspension and running gear is as solid as a brick. Not to mention my W rated tires beeing too loud and hard.

I have tried struts, brakes, rotors, wheel bearings, alignment, wheels, ball joints, and tires. I never thought it could be a crank pulley, but mine did split and I put a new one on and I still have the vibration.

My theroy is that if it was a suspension issue, it would be constant. But it is not. Sometimes the car drives as smooth as any new car. I am leaning to the idea it may be intermitent engine vibration and a good motor mount swap may fix it.

Here are a few ideas floating in my mind, please comment because I am frustrated like Rodman and sometimes ready to ditch the dsm.

1) Motor mounts ?
2) Front strut bar to firm up slop in front end?
3) New carriage for driveshaft, mine has an indexed feel when you turn it ?
 
#39 ·
I had the same freaking problem, vibration ,no noise, just vibration.I took it to a shop first and they told me ball joints, no big deal except they wanted an assload of money to fix, said screw you fixed it myself.Turned out the bastards were way off the ball joints weren't the problem, basically wasted alot of time for no reason and money on parts, anyway, i went to the tires and wheels and that didn't change anything, replaced the front wheel bearings- another misguided diagnosis, no fix, finally replaced the cv axle and walah, now there's only a slight vibration.Well i looked up at the driveshaft( which i also replaced the u joint in it ) while the car was in the air and when i turn the shaft back and forth the damn rear-end jumps up and down, not the carrier bearing, but the bushing that is next to it is the culprit.So now i'm waiting til the shop gets done with my upgrades and then after waiting for almost 4 months now of them working on it :chair: i will have to tear the rear-end down and replace the bushing.I know it's alot to read but it could be your fix.:eek:
 
21 - 40 of 57 Posts
About this Discussion
56 Replies
15 Participants
Last post:
tazbeme
DSMTalk Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum
posts
2.3M
members
104K
Since
2000
A forum community dedicated to Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser and Eagle Talon owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, turbos, builds, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
General DSM Tech and Tuning Help! Tech Newbie Questions Forum Body Tech and Appearance Electronics Tech