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30psi of boost...whats it take?

3.3K views 30 replies 13 participants last post by  Nightsun  
#1 ·
Just wondering if I can get by by setting high boost to 30 maybe 32 psi boost at the track only. I have a stock bottom end with 120k miles but it still registers exactly 155psi compression across all four. I am 99 percent sure I have the supporting mods. According to link, at 25 psi and 45lbs/min my injector duty cycle is at 79%. I want to push 52lb/min but was wondering if that is possible (only when going to the track once/twice a month). My turbo; SCM61 is rated at 65lbs so I am just starting to operate it in its effeciency range. Mods follow:

DSM Link, AEM WB, 780cc's, FP2 cams, Magnus SMIM, GM 3" mass, SCM 61, EVO O2 housing, ported EVO exhaust mani, Custom FMIC w/2.5" piping, Fidanza 8lb Flywheel, ACT 2600, mitsu metal head gasket, arp head studs, modified lifters, 92 Tranny, symborski shift kit, open K&N, 2.5" Buschur DP, 2.5" muffler, no cats, Joe P MBC, Walbro 255lph with re-wire, car lightened to 2700lbs, SAFC, Datalogger, Greddy 52mm EGT, Autometer phantom AF, and OBX Boost gauges
 
#2 ·
I dont know how to answer without stating the obvious...
More psi always increases the risk of parts carnage.

It appears you have the ability to flow that much. Heres the risks:

1.Bend rod
2.Spin bearing
3.Any other list of broken parts
4.Run lean and detonation

Along with fuel, ign timing becomes more of a factor as psi increases. YMMV!

Those are the big things. As I always say though, crank her up and see what happens!
 
#3 ·
The only way to know for sure if your motor can handle it is to monitor knock. If you're already tuned to the edge at 25 psi, then 30 psi is obviously too much. Or do you plan on using race gas? I would.

A 3" DP and straight through muffler would help, too.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I say go for it. I don't see why not. That is what I'll be doing after I install my arps and new headgasket. I'm on 1g rods/2g pistons all supporting mods, 950s, magnus intake, 272s, etc. Even at 25psi that turbo pulls hard already. at 30-35psi I'm guessing thats like 80 more whp.
 
#5 ·
Went to the track Sunday and went 12.0 at 119 with 23-24psi...possibly spiking breifly to 25. I peaked at the wide band during third gear and it showed 11:5 with pump gas and small mixture of race fuel. Knock was almost non-existent 1-3rd but in 4th gear timing was pulled 1.5*-2.8* from 6k-6750rpm. This occurred on back to back runs. I am hoping that this can be tuned out by adjusting the timing/fuel sliders and by running straight 116 oct fuel. I cant imagen guys running 30 or more psi and not having at least some knock somewhere during a run built motor or not. On a side note, I notice knock increase dramatically when I run the car with a near empty tank. That last run was at about 1/8 tank. Maybe its time to clean out the tank. Thanks for the feedback.
 
#7 ·
Man you got it perfectly...tranny is very questionable as are the tires. It was grinding going into 2nd on all four runs but the car was still very consistent running 12.4 three times all with 1.8 60ft. The last run I just slipped the clutch a little and got rid of the slack which got me a 1.7 60ft which no doubt helped bring down the overall time. Dont get me wrong, I am not at all discouraged with running 12.0. There were modded 03-04 Cobras running 12.2-12.3's at 113-114. The rims alone on one of them was worth more then I paid for my car...lol. I am very lightly tuned, injector duty cycle is still hovering around 80% and I still have yet to try nlts which I have heard helps tranny engagement...
 
#8 ·
LOL...I am in the same boat man. I have a similar turbo and my last outing at the track netted me a best of a 12.0 @ 117mph at roughly the same boost. 60's don't help much if it takes 2-3 tries to get into 2nd. I believe I ran a 12.8 @ 117mph with a 1.66 60 foot on that day as well. :D Mine's worse since it grinds 1-2-3-4. 2's the worst. Had to let the RPM drop to 4K to get it in. NLTS is best used if the tranny is actually shifting well already. If it isn't, I think you increase the chances of breaking something. ;)

Fix that tranny before next year unless you want to continue posting Supra-like times. That's my project for this winter.
 
#9 ·
Dayum, 12.8 at 117?? Kinda like my previous outting where I ran a 13.0 @ 112. I hear you on the tranny...it will be addressed first qtr of 06. For now, it better just dip me into the 11's. That is a great 60ft btw. Next on the list is a 3" DP and better tires. I am using a hand-me-down 2.5" now which has been cut and welded a few times. I think the outlet is more like 2" to 2-1/4".
 
#10 ·
What does it take? Balls....

btw, a built motor will not decrease the amount of knock you get unless it has lower compression. But it will hold up better. It's all in the tune if you don't want to knock. The stock engine is supposed to be good for 450ish whp. That's about 600 at the crank. Good luck, those are high boost #'s. Be ready to buy another motor.
 
#15 ·
I liked NLTS when my tranny shifted like crap. I could keep the throttle floored while NLTS held boost at 12 psi and rpms at 5500, and when the gear finally went in the turbo was back at full power immediately. I felt that it gave me time to shift carefully, instead of having to rush the shift before boost and rpms dropped off. crap trannies still suk, tho.
 
#18 ·
diambo4life said:
People have run that amount of boost on the stock bottom end, with the stoock HG and with stock hehad bolts...sheeeesh. :D It's all in tuning. Keep detonation in check and you'll be fine. ;)
Yup...and people have run in the 11's with 120 (or lower) psi compression ratio...I consider myself very lucky to still have 155 across all four even with cams and thicker metal HG. Before cams...compression ratio was 165. I use to think this engine had been rebuilt using 2g pistons. Screw it...I am worried but I am gonna do it (doesnt that sound intelligent). I am gonna add a little fuel up top and up the boost. Before that tho...3" DP and tires!! :eek: :eek:
 
#19 ·
Water Injection!!!!..I've put my motor through some of the worst abuse over 2 years and it still has perfect compression and no carbon build up at all..It'll lower your intake charge temp down dramaticaly..It'll also serve as a combustion cleaner everytime you use it..Did I forget to mention that when using methanol,it'll raise your octane level a bit?..Goota love WI kit's..I've had mine for 2 years now and would NEVER own another car without one again.. :)
 
#20 ·
okay, I am intrigued. Which kit are you using and how much was it? Links or any information would be helpful. I havent read too much on these kits but from what I have read, they seem to do well in keeping knock in check. I am only looking to crack into the 11's. Once I do that, I am seriously contemplating putting this engine into a Conquest body.
 
#22 ·
Let me dig up a thread that was on _uners..The guy had done logs of before and after..Seriously,No one should be running without meth..I have the aquamist 1s kit that I had gotten 3 years ago on a group buy and I've never had any problems with it..There are cheaper kits out there though that do the same thing now like coolingmist..
 
#23 ·
http://www.3sxperformance.com/alcoholinj.asp

Here is a link with decent descriptions and pricing for the 1s. Looks like it is fairly inexpensive. Hell, I paid more for my SMIM. First thing is first...I am looking for a full 3" downpipe to replace the crappy one I have now...do I actually need a full 3" DP? Would a 2.5" in 3" out work? The outlet on my evo III o2 housing is 2.5".

Secondly, that 1s kit, is it capable of injecting meth/water or is that a rediculous ?.
 
#24 ·
Nightsun said:
http://www.3sxperformance.com/alcoholinj.asp

Here is a link with decent descriptions and pricing for the 1s. Looks like it is fairly inexpensive. Hell, I paid more for my SMIM. First thing is first...I am looking for a full 3" downpipe to replace the crappy one I have now...do I actually need a full 3" DP? Would a 2.5" in 3" out work? The outlet on my evo III o2 housing is 2.5".

Secondly, that 1s kit, is it capable of injecting meth/water or is that a rediculous ?.
You can get alky and distill water yourself and mix them however you please (there are tons of threads on what to run so researching will be fun :) ) or you can do like I do or most people do and run windshielf washer fluid..It's 98 cents for a gallon and it's basicaly methanol and coloring..I prefer blue..I like blue.. :) Try looking on ebay for coolingmist kit's..They're cheaper and do the same thing as the aquamist kits do.. ;)
 
#25 ·
#26 ·
I assume you are using AEM EMS or DSMLink that allows you to control your timing/fuel separately. Earlier this year, I was running 26psi on my FP GREEN (50 trim)with 93 octane. Ran 97 in the 1/8th, should have been good for 123mph in the 1/4. A/F was in the 11.3:1 range.

I'd add some fuel across the board to drop your a/f a little. Also, start reducing timing by 2-3 deg. where it starts knocking. You want to get rid of the knock as soon as it starts. That will hold you back. Because once you start knocking, it doesn't totally go away. I saw that by reducing my timing advance, I actually made more power, and got more overall timing, by reducing knock.