Search, there are plenty of 4g64 builds. I have 8.5 cr. And this afpr

Your bottom end is exactly what I have. Ross/eagle. 7 bolt.
Injectors do seem big. Take note : not all Eagles use 1g bearings.

 

From a DSMlink standpoint I would run the 950's.
Buying injectors once is a good idea.

I would also recommend atleast a 50 trim.
GT series um, hell yes.
See sig.


I would also go with a moderate cam.
272ish. 2.4l's love cams.

 

950's will do, it depends on the boost and turbo obviously.

I maxed out 720's at 16psi so i went with 1600's ) .... I'd get 1150's and be done with that.

Compression ratio 8.5:1 -- scat and wiseco

Fuel pressure is the same.

400hp that is easily obtainable. Put it this way - I was flowing 40-42lbs/min at 16psi on a 60trim (wayyy out of efficiency level).

What kind of cams do you plan on going with? I'd port the intake manifold as well.

 

Search, there are plenty of 4g64 builds. I have 8.5 cr. And this afpr

I did, I've taken a lot of notes and what not. That 14+ page thread is a jumble of myths with a few facts sprinkled throughout.

Buying injectors once is a good idea. GT series um, hell yes. I would also go with a moderate cam. 272ish. 2.4l's love cams.

Agreed. After I finish the block I will move on to cams/head/turbo.

950's will do, it depends on the boost and turbo obviously. Compression ratio 8.5:1 -- scat and wiseco. Fuel pressure is the same.

What kind of cams do you plan on going with? I'd port the intake manifold as well.

272's or something equivalent. The head and intake will eventually be ported and there will be a equal length tubular head.



Is there much of a difference between 8.5:1 and 8.7:1? Also, if any one has done this build are there any tips or you can or tell of any problems that you ran into?

So far this is the only problem area I've heard of:

When you start building the 2.4, you are going to have some clearance issues here and there. For instance, the timing belt cover bolt holes will not align accordingly with the head. Also, you will need to fabricate or extend your turbo oil drain line a half inch in height.

Other than that, you need to add a 2.4 timing belt to the list. If you have trouble finding one, go to Checker (no where else) and look up a Hi-Tech timing belt for a 1994 Galant with a 2.4 DOHC.

Thanks for the help so far,

John

 

Can't seem to find the edit button to save my life - maybe its becausee I am crying over the loss to Florida by OSU

Back on topic, what brand of injectors are best? I haven't read into injectors too much (I will be doing that in the next few days). I hear FIC's and PTE's have a lot of dead time, not good. Any suggestions?

 

Dead time shouldn't be an issue since you can adjust it with DSMlink.

 

PTE and FIC injectors all use the same bodies (which are originally made by Delphi automotive). The difference is PTE over rates their injectors , and FIC actually has them "checked". PTE just charges more and aren't "checked". So you will be alright with either but I've always gone with the FIC's. Also like Asmo said with dsmlink dead time shouldn't be an issue.

 

Agree with most of your stuff. Fancy heads are not that important really on anything but race cars. Boost makes the power and fancy porting on interference engines to me is just not that smart.
I also agree stock cams will be a choke point. At minimum 264 or 264/272 combo and 272s are still pretty streetable in a 2.4. I have 280/280s or crower stage 3s and they idle fine with dsmlink but have some cam surge so again for pure streetabilty the 272 and bit under would be ideal.
As said if you have dsmlink and might go bigger later than 950s are fine.
650s are more than enough for 50 trims or evo big 16s.Injectors are simple to change out later anyway.
If I did my build again think would go with eagle crank. They are not that expensive and there have been some crank failures on 2.3 and 2.4s. Think some were really revved to the moon and some were likely turned. I polished only my very low mileage minty crank. So hope it holds. I am not tracking that much so that should help and run 8000 pretty much tops for redline.Shift around 7000 though usually but sometimes bump rev limiter in first and even second. No harm done so far though.

Personally an FP3052 is a perfect turbo and should maybe have just got that one myself but being power hungry figured needed the extra 150 or so potential of the FP3065. Still the spool could be lower even with a 2.4 and mabye with more tweaking I can improve it. The evo might actually be choking that 2.4 engine so again would go FP3052 personally.

 

The original 6 bolt engine in my car just broke, and I have been wanting to do a 4g64 build for a while. Where can i find a 6 bolt 4g64, they seem hard to come by. Does anyone know if there is an advantage to using a 4g64 block over a 4g63/4g64 combo? Also, the FP3 cams from forced performance are geared towards the 63/64 stroker, does anyone know if they are better then crower 280 cams for a 4g64?

 

The six bolt G4cs are the best I think and are found in 89 to 91 hyundai sonatas which are still fairly common I think a year or so ago found a few should likely pick up another couple just for spares. You can just go with a 2.0 and punch it to 2.3 much easier to find maybe. Use that eagle crank if you want bulletproof.You can also use kevlar timing and balance shaft belts on the 2.3 they don't make them for the 2.4 but I don't trust those balance shafts anyway.