ya i was looking into them, which one is a good one to get, plus like do you need a kit and all that crap and how much did u get all ur stuff for, total thanks

 

I know a good one is the B&M regulator, but I have a different one.

 

Here's how.

 

I know a good one is the B&M regulator, but I have a different one.

uh no... not if you are talking about the commando... the fuel pressure riser not what you want.

 

FPR is good for these cars if im correct, correct me if im wrong, and also you can just leave it unplugged if you dont want it correct?

 

FPR is good for these cars if im correct, correct me if im wrong, and also you can just leave it unplugged if you dont want it correct?

Unplugged meaning no lines running to it at all? If so, then yes. It's just a part sitting there, doing nothing. An FPR is good if you have a larger fuel pump like a Walbro 255 HP or a Supra TT pump. Otherwise, they aren't really needed.

 

ya my next set up is so i can tune my psi up i have a evoiii 16g,
i want a fpr,afcii,650cc,255hp fp and pocket logger but i dont understand how fpr's work because i dont know what is good, what lines to run, and where to install it onto it..

 

ya my next set up is so i can tune my psi up i have a evoiii 16g,
i want a fpr,afcii,650cc,255hp fp and pocket logger but i dont understand how fpr's work because i dont know what is good, what lines to run, and where to install it onto it..

Then don't install one.

 

"QWKLIL4" way to be an ass? ^
i just want advice on a good one...

 

"QWKLIL4" way to be an ass? ^
i just want advice on a good one...

All an FPR does is raise or lower your base fuel pressure. Simply put, when you install a larger fuel pump, it automatically increases the fuel pressure. All you want to do is lower the pressure to the stock levels. 37psi on 1G, 43.5psi on 2G. If you find yourself running out of injector, crank up the fuel pressure a little bit. If you want to run more timing advance, lean the car out a little via afc, but increase fuel pressure. Lots of different ways to skin a cat.

Easiest and cheapest solution is to get a bolt on unit from www.fullthrottlespeed.com $150 and ur done. If you want bling bling and lots of options of how to hook up, get an Aeromotive unit for $140, then spend another $200 or so for SS braided lines/fittings to run to/from fuel filter/AFPR/fuel rail.

Choice is yours.

 

unplug as in JUST the vacuum line

 

unplug as in JUST the vacuum line

You don't want to unplug just the vacuum line. Then you no longer have a 1:1 rising rate FPR. That's how it knows when to increase fuel pressure, the vacuum line.

 

To restate what has been said a little, an FPR simply increases the fuel pressure on a 1:1 ratio with the boost pressure. The common concensus is that the stock FPR can't keep up with the added pressure of a 255lph or similar fuel pump, and thus people replace the FPR when they get a new pump. The 'A' signifies that it is adjustable, and that adjustment is used as is described above.

The FullThrottle FPR seems to be an increasingly popular option, but I went with the Aeromotive. If anyone wants a part list, I can probably throw something together.

Ryan

 

you 98 eclipse gsx a/t exactly same as me.. so.. i'd like a part list

 

To restate what has been said a little, an FPR simply increases the fuel pressure on a 1:1 ratio with the boost pressure. The common concensus is that the stock FPR can't keep up with the added pressure of a 255lph or similar fuel pump, and thus people replace the FPR when they get a new pump.

Close, but no. The fuel PRESSURE is not the main problem. The OEM units can handle railhead pressures of 65 to 70 PSi without problems. The problem is that the aperture (the hole that fuel escapes from the regulator through to go back down the return line) is too small.

So, we run into a problem where the bigger fuel pump produces a certain volume at a certain pressure, and since the aperture is only open so much, the excess fuel can't escape through the return line until railhead pressure rises high enough to force it out. At idle or vacuum, that's not a problem - but when you get into boost, and the aperture is restricted to raise rail pressure, then we get more than the 1:1 we are supposed to get and as a result, more fuel gets forced through the injectors than is supposed to. We go rich, and start having trouble.

Bigger pumps mean bigger trouble - and as boost increases, it gets proportionally worse. Injectors are designed to atomise liquid at a certain pressure - go too high, and instead of a good atomized shot of fuel you get erratic spray patterns and injector pintles have trouble closing.

For the vast majority of us, it wont' be a problem. But as we've seen more and more ricers show up wanting everything ridiculously oversized rather than taking the time to learn what works it's become much more common. (and yeah, I'm guilty, I got way too much fuel pump and chose to do a regulator rather than change pumps again)

 

Well said. I am glad a few people knew what they were talking about in here. Saved me the trouble of pointing out all of the wrong ideas and statements in the previous posts.

The AFPR is mainly used for controlling base pressure but it is also a very valuable tuning tool if you are trying to use large injectors with just a very basic tuning piggyback like the Safc. Taboo, while a fraud, did post some very good info on tuning with the Safc/fuel pressure regulator combo.

Close, but no. The fuel PRESSURE is not the main problem. The OEM units can handle railhead pressures of 65 to 70 PSi without problems. The problem is that the aperture (the hole that fuel escapes from the regulator through to go back down the return line) is too small.

So, we run into a problem where the bigger fuel pump produces a certain volume at a certain pressure, and since the aperture is only open so much, the excess fuel can't escape through the return line until railhead pressure rises high enough to force it out. At idle or vacuum, that's not a problem - but when you get into boost, and the aperture is restricted to raise rail pressure, then we get more than the 1:1 we are supposed to get and as a result, more fuel gets forced through the injectors than is supposed to. We go rich, and start having trouble.

Bigger pumps mean bigger trouble - and as boost increases, it gets proportionally worse. Injectors are designed to atomise liquid at a certain pressure - go too high, and instead of a good atomized shot of fuel you get erratic spray patterns and injector pintles have trouble closing.

For the vast majority of us, it wont' be a problem. But as we've seen more and more ricers show up wanting everything ridiculously oversized rather than taking the time to learn what works it's become much more common. (and yeah, I'm guilty, I got way too much fuel pump and chose to do a regulator rather than change pumps again)

 

so would a 255lph (NOT HP) be ok with a aeromotive FPR like above with the firewall install kit (or is the rail mount better?) and my 650cc injectors with SAFC2/MAFT Trans combo be ok? i plan on running 20-22 psi with my PTE 50 trim and dont want to run into the other issues described above.thanks for the help guys

 

Yes, that is fine. The Aeromotive setup will work fine for whatever pump you are using.

 

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86669&highlight=spdklzu]Aeromotive AFPR install (parts) thread is right here!!!! ALL the info. is here if you just friggin SEARCH!!!![/COLOR]

 

i plan on running 20-22 psi with my PTE 50 trim

How come so little boost?

 

It doesn't matter what version of the 255 you get, you'll need an afpr. I wouldn't chance mounting a big hunk of metal to the end of a fuel rail. Plus, it looks so much better on the firewall.

I've never had a problem with the bolt-on piece from full throttle. $150 + $30 (gauge) + 20 minutes to install = works well.

Who's spending $200 for stainless lines and fittings? I don't think they are that expensive.

Taboo, while a fraud, ...

Erik's true feelings come out.

 

dont want to walk the 7bolt ;-) got around 70k on her and im needing her to last till i get the 6 bolt in, then lower boost to around 14 psi untill broken it, then im thinking 24-27 psi with supporting mods

 

Boost pressure won't cause cw to come soone or anything.

 

Well, 22psi is just about the maximum boost you would want if you have a stock block, stock headgasket, stock head studs, and pump gas anyway...So, I would be more worried about excessive knock and a blown headgasket then c-walk...Just a thought....

AFPR wise, there really isn't much else to say; But, don't get the idea that you only want an AFPR to lower the fuel pressure from an upgraded pump...AFPR's are essential for tuning and fuel setups b/c you can raise the fuel pressure to help you under-sized injectors flow more, which I imagine in turn would help you richen out a little bit..

Hey DJ, glad the 16g is working out for you; If you still got q's on the AFPR ask me about it next time your on AIM

 

the set up is smelly inside the car when i get on it tho plus my boost controller broke lol.. so ya.. i mgetting a new one sent to me for free (well the part im missing from joe p nice guy..)