You can by remanufactured ones at car quest, auto zone, or whatever for ~$100
if you are really broke, you can drive on it for a WHILE, but no more than a few weeks.

 

give Marty a call at www.Raxles.com 1-800-257-8192
these guys are the best deal you will fine all NEW joints and they give you extras like new axle nut, Amsoil grease, one piece boots all included and they ship the same day usually. mine were $99 a corner for 95 tsi awd.

also another plus some of the joints are actually beefier than stock. talk to Marty and you wont be disappointed great customer service.

 

Yeah, Marty at Raxles is the best! Their stuff is priced well and it's top notch quality. I won't buy any other axle for my car other than from them. But then, I'm a firm believer in spending my money right the first time instead of going cheap the first time and then spending more money and time to do it right the second.

 

how much did you end up spending? (dsmaniac)

 

I picked up a Re-manufactured one from NAPA for just under $80. Its like 140-60 core. Just double check the axle when you get it. Make sure its the correct one and that it moves. I had problems with Napa on 2 occasions.

1st, I redid both front axels on my wife's 91 subaru. I got an incorrect axel the first time and had to wait for the correct one to be shipped in from another store.

2nd, I'm in the process of redoing the DS on my 90 Talon TSI and ran into the problem that the replacement had siezed and would not move. 2 days later I got a replacement from them for that. Little bit of a PITA, but they are local to me and fixed the problems right away.

If you do the DS on a 1G AWD, be ready to take out the down tube on the exhaust to get to the intermediate shaft bearing bracket. It'll make removal of the whole assembly a piece of cake.

The other thing I ran into (being new to DSMs) was that the strut/springs do not have any further extension when the car is jacked. This was unlike my subaru which I had to jack back up to get bolted back onto the hub. And that was with the spring compressed. :O Removing the strut from the hub makes pulling the axle much easier than separting the hub from the control arm (like it says in the Haynes manual). The vfaq is spot on otherwise.

To separate the axle from the intermediate shaft, a BFH and a few light blows on the inside axel housing should separate the two (Thats what the mitsu dealer did when I took it to them. Sheesh). Inspect the circlip. If its in good condition, save yourself the $4 a new one would cost and re-use it. (I'll be returning mine before long. )

HTH
Mike

 

I replaced both front axels on my car. Left side was 149.95 and right side was 119.95 plus shipping. There was also a core charge which Marty didn't charge to my credit card up front but I would have to pay it if I didn't return the cores. The return is also freight pre-paid. Just put your old axle in the box the new one came in, slap the included shipping label on it and drop it off at a UPS place.

I got the right axles the first time and I have had no problems whatsoever with them so far.

 

both my outer boots on my 90 AWD are ripped and make clicking noises when I turn left and right (previous owner didn't fix it) and I'm not sure how long its been like this. Would I be able to just redo the boots and just throw a bunch of grease in there to make up for it? What exactly is the clicking sound and why does it mean its all bad?

btw, yeah I know I have to fix them soon cause it may lock up my tires but this damn DSM needs a TON of other stuff... I guess that's what makes it a DSM.

 

both my outer boots on my 90 AWD are ripped and make clicking noises when I turn left and right (previous owner didn't fix it) and I'm not sure how long its been like this. Would I be able to just redo the boots and just throw a bunch of grease in there to make up for it? What exactly is the clicking sound and why does it mean its all bad?

btw, yeah I know I have to fix them soon cause it may lock up my tires but this damn DSM needs a TON of other stuff... I guess that's what makes it a DSM.

No......If they are clicking they are shot. A bunch of grease and a new boot may mask the sound somewhat but they are only going to get worse and worse.

 

The only way you'd be able to just do the boots is if you caught the boots with minor rip and all the grease was still in them.
Then you could be sure that no dirt got in. In reality doing the boots is a PITA and its just easier and better that you replace em. My driver side was 80$ after I returned the core. Not bad considering that I got 2 new boots and interals.

Mike