Very interesting, I was thinking of doing something very similar. But by bringing in air from behind the stock passenger side fog light.

Let us know how much better the car performs overall! I'd really like to know how it runs full out and at high speeds etc.

 

Updated the photos to include the filter shield design as well.

 

Well did my logs and heres the results for ya. I start with 104 degrees F and after a few minutes of driving.....(According to logger roughly about 5 minutes) Temps Drops to 75 degrees. That is the lowest reading with average temps hovering 80 degrees. I also noticed while looking at the logs that the more I open the throttle (push the gas pedal) the lower the reading in temps and the less I have the pedal pressed the higher the reading but its not more than a few degrees of difference. Temps outside were about 70-75 degrees.

Did a second log. Went to Target and came out to car and starting air temps were 116F. Lowest temps after 6 minutes of driving were 75 degrees with average temps hovering at 79-82F. In case you are wondering Coolant temps hovered at 199-203F with an occasional dip into 196F.
As for performance.... When I hit the gas pedal all the way and the turbo spools, man does this car pull! If you ever hit WOT when your car was not fully warmed up you would know what feeling I'm talking about. Its like it has more pep right when the turbo is spooling and she pulls very hard, harder than before. This feeling I only got when I first warmed up the car and did the first WOT pull, after that the second and third pulls were normal. Now I get this feeling of pull almost every time I hit the gas. And its consistant!!! Start off high, drive a little, temps drop. And confirming it with the logger I see that while doing WOT pulls, the temps drop. This means while temps are dropping the turbo is compressing cooler air as she gets closer to the 15 psi setting. (Still rock solid boost) I plan on making a third section of the heat shield to cover the area between the fuse box and fender to almost completely close off the filter from engine bay heat. There is still a vent and thats the original factory hole on the side of the fender. I removed the plastic that was there to provide free flow ventilation for the filter. (It was a b*** to take out)

 

Awesome results... I'll really have to take a serious look at this whole idea very soon. Its cheap and relatively easy to pull off. What materials did you use to seperate the filter from the rest of the engine bay?

Why was the little plastic thing so hard to get out? I thought that came out pretty easy actually, lol. Maybe I just tore the bastard out instead of being careful about it.

 

Hmmm. I did this on my 1g but it was much easier. I ran some duct work up from the front under the lower lip on the front cover and used a vaccum end intake from my shop vac and you can hardly see it unless the car is in the air. It's also adjustable by pulling it down so it can scoop more air and then I can push it back up so it's out of sight for the mostpart. I'm getting a new digi cam soon

 

Awesome results... I'll really have to take a serious look at this whole idea very soon. Its cheap and relatively easy to pull off. What materials did you use to seperate the filter from the rest of the engine bay?

Why was the little plastic thing so hard to get out? I thought that came out pretty easy actually, lol. Maybe I just tore the bastard out instead of being careful about it.

Day two and took a drive at 9:30 am. The whole way the temps dropped and stayed at 68-69F on the freeway. That is the lowest. Later in the day consistant 75-84F temps. It does not matter high high the temps start, it always dropped down after driving. When I shut the car off to go to the bank, came back temps started at 116F Not to worry within 5 minutes of driving 80F. I love it! As for the material I used for the Shield.... I went to my favorite place, Home Depot Motorsports (HDM) and bought a sheet of sheetmetal 18" x 12" that was 22 guage thick. I bought big in case made mistakes. I used a Dremel with a reinforced metal cutoff wheel (Several wheels) Than grinded to desired shape with a grinding stone.
And with that plastic thing, Yeah I was trying to be careful about it. Shoulda just tore it out but was in a good mood hehe

Also let me make a note. This was done with the 97-98 intercooler shroud. The previous (95-96) design of the shroud from the factory is smaller. I don't know if doing it on the smaller shroud will give similar results. to get an idea of size difference look here in this thread

 

I know how Imagestation can suck so I updated a pic of the 95 and 98 shroud so you can see the difference in size. I'm sure designing it a little different can make it work. I'm thinking in terms of the deflector so that it won't take up the surface area of the intercooler. (Which would cancel the effects and make it worse)
Direct link to the shrouds

 

Hmmmm, there is quite a big difference between the two.

It might be possible to just slot the side of the shroud a bit on the passenger side and run a vent upwards. Maybe using a smaller deflector than yours, if any. After that run a bit of duct work from behind the stock fog lights over into the driver's side of that shroud to assist with the process. I think if I put my mind to it I could work something out.

How is this whole setup for noise? Do you find that you can hear the air rushing in? Does it make any annoying whistles etc etc?

 

There is no noise.

 

There is no noise.

Good to hear. How does it hold up to high speed driving? I'm trying to think how I'd secure everything in place. If I were to take it to the track, I'd hate to see something blow off!

Thanks for the info! I'm hoping I can at least start looking to gather materials for it soon, this sounds like my type of mod. (cheap!)

 

I have driven to 110mph. I bolted this down using a triangle bolt down method evenly spaced in a circle to secure the duct to the shroud. I used big washers to hold most of the aluminum around the screw head and not to rip the thin aluminum while tightening it down. It is joined with strips of aluminum sheet metal bent to the sape of the inside of the round duct and the shape of the shroud where it was to be fastened. Than the wheel well also holds it in place as it is a tight fit. Lastly, I cut another strip of aluminum sheet metal and did the same thing for the other side and bolted it down using the same method to the frame of the car. Using nut, bolts and washers is better than screws. The deflector is also bolted using nuts bolts and washers. The shroud it self is bolted to the intercooler with one nut and bolt along with the plastic press screws that came stock.

 

I thought I'll add some useful facts to help you decide if this will help you out (in case you need any)

Here are all the temp related items that pull timing from the 2G ECU Tuning
from DSMLink..

Coolant temps below 206F get full timing
Coolant temps above 224F lose two degrees of advance
Coolant temps between those two lose only one degree
Intake temps above 84F or below 34F lose one degree

 

This project still shows consistency with cooling the intake temps. I am currently moving on to a FMIC and will modify this project to cool the FMIC using both air dams and to bring in more air to the filter by using more of the air dam and shroud due to me removing the SMIC. If I can get it designed I will start a new thread. Until than I wanted to update this thread and link the pictures to the updated area. The record low recorded on the logger was 56 degrees and the record high was 80-82 (Summer)
Heres the link!

 

awesome post. do you have any pics or examples for 1G?

 

No I designed it specifically for a 2G due to thats what I have. Maybe someone will make one for a 1G

 

Where did you find that shroud?

 

Where did you find that shroud?

Dealer
OEM 97-98 Eagle Talon Intercooler duct. The 95-96 Talons had smaller intercooler shrouds.