DSMTalk Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum banner
1 - 20 of 39 Posts

turboneal

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,247 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok, so I am in Baghdad, Iraq and my friend is back home trying to get my front axles off so I can send them in to get driveshaftshops level 2 upgrade. (I tried to get the inner parts new but mitsu apparently discontinued...)

Anyway, he is having trouble getting them out- I would appreciate any advice that helps!

as emailed by my friend Richard:
"I got the last brake caliper bolt loose. I found your breaker bar in the corner right next to where I set up the air compressor and I totally overlooked it. I did however bring my breaker bar (galvanized chain link fence post) Little over kill but made it very easy :)

The CV axles are still giving me trouble. They are not wanting to come loose from the hub. I have had the same problem on my civic and other vehicles I have done it on working at the shop, but yours really don't want to come out. I talked to Joe and he said that his dad worked on Alex's civic and that he had the same problem because some of the splines on the cv axled got bent from all the burnouts he does with his car. I don't think that is the case with your car. I think it is because they have probably never been taken out before and the car is 10 almost 11 years old. I'll keep ya posted
."

-Neal

PS i already searched the subject... but if i missed something- my bad.

Showing results 76 to 99 of 99
Search took 5.52 seconds; generated 4 minute(s) ago. Search: Key Word(s):
axles

(Note: While on the NOPI tour a few years ago, he changed axles on his civic on the side of interstate 20 about 20 miles from Monroe inside of an hour- that is including driving back to the autoparts store in my car, and coming back... LOL The point is, if he has some experience with this stuff.)
 
Use a large screw driver or mid sized breaker bar. Place it between the axle end and the transmission. Use the transmission housing or a block of wood as the fulcrum. Give a sharp blow to the prybar and the axle should pop free.

Two things. 1. Make sure the axle is out of the knuckle end. 2. Be sure not to damage the transmission. The Axle end really doesn't matter because you're getting new ones.

Its always good to replace the seals on the tranny as insurance against leaks. AND make sure when he puts the new ones in to check the ends for any metal burrs which may cut the new seals.

Hope that helps.

EDIT: Sorry didn't read the whole thing.

If it's hub end then use some WD-40 and a hammer to pound the axle end where the nut goes. Be sure not to pound directly toward (into) the transmission as you can damage the gears and spline ends. Remove the two hub bolts and turn the hub so the blows are angled away. If he's able to get it free but it still doesn't want to come all the way out, you can use a ratchet or similar long metal rod as a "push" and pound it the rest of the way out.

Then follow the above directions for the tranny side.

Thanks for your service to our country!:rudolph: :tree: :rudolph:
 
Another way to do it would be undo the 17mm nuts and angle the hub toward the ground slightly then pound as hard as you want, it wont hurt the trans because it is at an angle, axles are bitches if they havent been out in a while.
 
It is pretty common place on these cars that the axle becomes permanently frozen to the hub. No hammer or prying will do the job sometimes....sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. If he can't get it free you'll have to remove it as one piece (hub and axle) and replace both.

For starters get tons of PB blaster on there and let it soak. Pull the inner end of the axle, put the axle nut on, and hit it hard with a 5 lb (or larger) sledge. If that doesn't knock it free, nothing will. You can also try a 3 jaw puller.
 
11secdsm said:
It is pretty common place on these cars that the axle becomes permanently frozen to the hub. No hammer or prying will do the job sometimes....sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. If he can't get it free you'll have to remove it as one piece (hub and axle) and replace both.

For starters get tons of PB blaster on there and let it soak. Pull the inner end of the axle, put the axle nut on, and hit it hard with a 5 lb (or larger) sledge. If that doesn't knock it free, nothing will. You can also try a 3 jaw puller.
Some of us aren't from freeze and sieze areas like you 11sec. Mine hasn't fused together in 16 years so far. It's the dry climate it lived in.

Sucks to be a Northeasterner.:(
 
Red1991TSI said:
Some of us aren't from freeze and sieze areas like you 11sec. Mine hasn't fused together in 16 years so far. It's the dry climate it lived in.

Sucks to be a Northeasterner.:(
Oddly enough, it's never happened to any of MY cars. But i've seen it happen to friends' cars. Sucks to be them. ;)

PS, I agree with that last statement. I want to move back out west.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
thanks for all the suggestions!

my friend emailed the following:
I've done all the things they have posted except for the air hammer. As luck would have it, I bought a brand new one a month ago. I just don't want to use it because it will ruin the end of the axle that comes through the hub. We have used an air hammer at the shop, but we had new replacement axles already on hand. I am not sure what parts the driveshaft shop is going to need for the upgrade. Let me know what parts they reuse. Good info on the link. Either way though I am going to go tonight and saturate it with liquid wrench and let it sit over night to see if that helps. Tell me what you think.

Personally i am nervous about the airhammer deal. But, I think driveshaft shop doesn't need that end of the axle anyway... do they? I can't use the phone right now or I would call them.
 
turboneal said:
thanks for all the suggestions!

my friend emailed the following:
I've done all the things they have posted except for the air hammer. As luck would have it, I bought a brand new one a month ago. I just don't want to use it because it will ruin the end of the axle that comes through the hub. We have used an air hammer at the shop, but we had new replacement axles already on hand. I am not sure what parts the driveshaft shop is going to need for the upgrade. Let me know what parts they reuse. Good info on the link. Either way though I am going to go tonight and saturate it with liquid wrench and let it sit over night to see if that helps. Tell me what you think.

Personally i am nervous about the airhammer deal. But, I think driveshaft shop doesn't need that end of the axle anyway... do they? I can't use the phone right now or I would call them.
I would hope whoever is building your axles will use new knuckles/bearings. There is a small V-shaped indention in the hub end of the axle, you could use the pointy air hammer attachment rather than the blade. It would be perfect to use and keep the airhammer on target.

Shouldn't damage the end either.
 
*****We need the inner c.v. housings from your axles to make these systems>*Please Note- You must send in your OEM axles in so we can heat-treat and shot peen the inner housing, you will need to call the office for an RMA (Return Merchandise Authorization ) Number for these jobs

from their site...
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
11secdsm said:
I thought it was a complete replacement axle from DS. Didn't know they actually "upgraded" the axle.
well, DSS wanted me to send them my "factory inners". i was going to order from JNZ to have new parts instead and have them direct shipped to DSS but apparently mitsu is totally out of the "INNER JOINT KIT" as JNZ called them.

DSS said that my "factory inners" should be fine and that if i bought the complete axle from mitsu i would be wasting money because most of it would be going in the trash anyway...

-Neal

(I haven't been around my car much for the last few years. I am having trouble remembering how to drive it, much less how to work on it, so sorry if i sound like a 'tard talking about parts, etc... lol)
 
Red1991TSI said:
So in other words, you can pound the crap out of your outter axle ends. I'll just watch... View attachment 3867
Exactly. They just need the inner joint...
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Thanks again for all the help- my friend is going to do the liquid wrench thing overnight and probably air hammer it the next day.

I will post the results in a couple days.

THANKS!!

-Neal
 
Tell your buddy that the air hammer will not ruin the end of it if he uses the right bit. Trust me I am an ex technician and always use an air hammer. Just hit it dead center FTW.
 
1 - 20 of 39 Posts