It's going to throw a code becuase the egr temperature sensor isnt going to be reading properly. But it wont always be on, my dads periodically comes and goes.

 

Hmm, I guess most people that have eliminated them are tuning around it with DSMLink. I just have an SAFC2 to tune with as of right now, so that sucks.

 

Yes it should defiantly through a code, thats what the CEL is for. It may go on and off sometimes. Unless your planning on getting a ecu tunning device ( dsm link, ecu plus, ect ) you should just fix the problem because egr block off isn't actually going to give any noticeable performance increase anyway. And if your doing it to clean up the engine bay.....I would rather have an egr valve than a CEL.

 

My advice: get dsmlink and rip all that emissions crap out.

 

I removed all my emissions, with no code. I was told as long as you keep the selinoids on the firewall pluged in you wont thow a code.

 

Hmm, yeah seems like I've heard that somewhere too. I'm almost tempted to just try it and see if it helps, I'm just trying to get my car running right without having to pay the local DSM shop AGAIN!

 

Little revival here.

Ok, I finally decided to rip out my emissions crap. I removed the three solenoids, and right now have just a couple hoses I need to know what to do with.

So, as I can see, there are hoses running to and from the evap canister.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...ms/newbie-forum/274210-evap-system-evaporative-recovery-hose-hoses-diagram.html

There are two ports on the canister, of which only one is hooked up from the factory as far as I can tell? and three hoses on the valve. The largest hose, which typically runs from the valve to the intake, is the one that carries fuel fumes, correct? Right now, I have this big hose that runs to the intake just pointing at the ground.

But, I took this picture:

There is a little hose that runs from this...thing...whatever it is, that ran up to the throttle body through the factory series of T's and little pipes. Can I disconnect this hose completely? I've disconnected everything else, but I want to make sure on this port, that it isn't expelling fumes or anything.

 

Take out all the emissions just leave the solenoids plugged up and you will be fine, it worked for me I have absolutely no emissions and I dont have DSMLINK yet.

 

I have link, so I can disable the CELs, but I just want to make sure if there is a hose in this mix that is carrying fumes, that it gets pointed at the ground so it's not in the engine bay.

 

Well there is a line that is supposed to run to the canister down there, if you remove the canister like I did you have to CAP off the line if you dont then just cap off the canister otherwise you will be leaking gas fumes in the engine bay and thats not too safe :-\

 

The big hose coming in from the firewall is the one carrying fumes. Just put vacuum plugs on all of the T connectors. I've got that done, no CEL.

The big line, you can either cap off (what I did) or extend back under the car.

 

I'm trying not to be too excited, because when I am, that's usually when something goes horribly wrong with my car, but I disconnected all the crap, pulled the solenoids off, capped the ports, etc, and the car gained somewhere between 1-2 inHG vacuum, which is nice, and my BOV is working phenomenally better than it was before. Now, even under light load and let off, I am not hearing any flutter like I was before. Cool. Plus my firewall looks much better than before, and now I realize I want a new intake manifold. lol.

 

Ok, so right now, I have the line from the gas tank still running into the canister, and I still have the line that runs from the canister up to the throttle body disconnected, just pointing at the ground. I also have the large hose that normally runs from the valve to the intake (large hose) pointed at the ground.

I've been doing a little reading, and things I'm seeing are saying that these ports/lines should not be blocked off, due to pressures caused in the gas tank. But, having them open means you're getting gas vapor in your engine bay, possibly igniting, or at least causing the car to smell like it has a gas leak.I have noticed a stronger gas smell since I pulled my lines.

What's the verdict on this? Any more info?

 

99% of the time I open my gas tank, I have less pressure coming out than when I had the EVAP system still in the car. And I have that line capped off.

 

I've removed all emissions, but left the solenoids dangling connected. Still getting a CEL for EVAP Emission System. I guess it all depends on the car.

As far as the vent line from the tank, I always read to leave that open, but I'm sure it doesn't make much difference. I also removed the charcoal canister though.

 

Hey guys finally got my car out of the shop, and im going to take out all the emmsions and vacuum lines. I have a diagram on how to but i dont have one on the Evap Canister. Ive been reading and i just want it clear to me, can any one draw a pic of the canister and where to block of the lines and what goes where? That will help me out alot, thanks if anyone can.

 

I remove emissions components from every car I own. Always have. I never got a light in my 2g - I just left the solenoids on the firewall plugged in, without lines on them. I always just capped the EVAP line too.

Same with the evo. Everything is removed, EGR, evap and all. EVAP line is just capped.
But on this car I have patched the ecu to eliminate the codes removing any of this stuff could throw. Well that and they have this nifty access to the part of the ecu where the code flags are even thrown... auto passing the car for inspection on plug in.

 

Stupid question.. Sorry for bringing this back up. I was going to do this and I was wondering if you have to have an egr block off plate? Or can you just put a cap on that nipple on the egr valve? Thanks.

 

I don't know about that, but I've seen people trace the valve onto a cut up pop can, cut it out, drill bolt holes, and bolt it under the valve like a gasket. Still not as good of an idea as doing it right, though.

 

That works pretty good. Do yourself a favor though and cut 2. Sometimes it can burn through a single thickness of pop can. Some of the EGR block off plates leak... and the pop can gasket can still be smashed between the EGR valve itself creating a better seal. (both boost and exhaust can leak out here)

Plus it also looks like your EGR is still there if that matter where you live.

I used a cookie tin to cut a lot of mine over the years. It's thicker and steel and will not burn through.

You need to physically block the EGR though 19GSX97.

 

Alright thanks man.

 

Also make sure you use RTV sealant on the block off plate so it don't leak, otherwise your car wont stay running or run like shit!

 

If you throw a cel just remove the light if it bothers you that much.

 

Holy old thread revival Batman!

 

I think removing the light would be a horrible idea!

And don't cap the evap canister. Instead get some hose from the local parts store and remove the can and run a line under the car. That's what I did, I feel capping it off might be a bad idea.

I've seen someone revive 2 year old threads, this is nothing.

 

Since this thread is up and going again I have a question. Is there anything I could of hit or knocked loose when removing the EGR stuff?
The only thing I have done to the car was remove the EGR and vac lines and put a new O-ring on the Biss screw and now the car wont start. Any thoughts?