I assuming I can leave my axles in and just unbolt the engine from the tranny (While supporting the tranny) and pull it up and out?

Yes, the axles can stay with the trans. You will need to tilt the the front of the motor up slightly to get it off the trans though.

Do I need to drain the tranny? Is there a gasket/o-ring between the engine/tranny I can/should change since it's right there?

No, there is no gasket, there should be no liquid inside the bell housing. If there is there is something wrong. If you have an auto just leave the torque converter in the trans and nothing should leak.

I don't need to remove the rad or anything I assume?

You don't *have* to, but it is advisable to remove it incase something should go wrong and the motor slams into it. You may have to remove the fans for clearance though.

Oh - and I have the head taken off the car already (Was going to just do the head but there's a hole in a piston). How will I raise the old engine out - just throwing a chain around the motor mounts and lifting?

What *I* do if there is no head on a car, not dsm's specifically, just cars in general is use two or three old head bolts and a couple big washers and then just stick the bolts through the links of the chain and hoist away. the Idea is to have three points of lift on the motor so it won't roll any forward/back or left/right.

BTW: it would help alot if you put the type of car you have and what trans you have into your sig or under your profile. Makes things alot easier for those of us trying to help you.

Good luck, Sean.

 

It's a 92 Eclipse, FWD, non-turbo (I'll update the profile now) with a 5 speed.

So, when you say tilt slightly, that means I should jack it up a bit (Near the front bumper, under the oilpan) after unbolting it, then it'll lift right out? (I'm assuming the tilt is to clear the input shaft?) Could you elaborate a bit on the tilting (This is the part that worries me)

So for lifting, I can use 3 old head bolts/washer, and just put them into the block, where they originally came from, and just pull using that? That's easy enough I think.

 

Just drop the tranny first (it takes 30 minutes max), unbolt the block from the mounts, get another guy and yank the block out of the car in 10 seconds, no hoist required.

 

So I take out the axles, undo a couple mounts, take off the shifter cables, and I can pull the tranny straight up and out of the car?

 

Disconnect just the passenger side strut from the knuckle and remove just the driver side axle from the tranny (but not from the knuckle). Remove the shifting cables, unbolt the starter from and the clutch slave cylinder from the tranny (don't disconnect the line) from the tranny and the tranny from the block and tranny mount, separate the tranny from the block just enough so you can pop the driver side axle half-way out of the tranny and drop the tranny on the ground. Then just unbolt the block from the front and rear mounts and temporarily attach the driver side motor mount just to the engine block by a couple of bolts. Lift the block out of the car with another guy while one of you grabs it by the front and rear mounting brackets and the other one by the driver side mount and the crank. The engine can be installed the same way, although it's easier to install the head, both manifolds and timing and accessory belts with the engine on a stand.

 

i just removed the engine recently.. i removed the axles and pulled it out with the trans still attached..i also removed the radiator just so there was not possibility of hitting it since it was brandnew.. to pull it i used a hoist and a spreader bar.. put on chain on the driver side mount and one on the passenger side mout.. removed the front and rear then just jacked it up and had someone just muscle it out of the car.. took like 5 minutes to remove the whole thing..

 

zip lock baggies with lables...