hey Mike, i'm writing you an email. You are the king!!!! THANK YOU.

 

I too had this problem. Turning it helped... but only for a while. While you're down there check for black fluid leaking from the master cylinder... look inside the firewall just below where it come through. There's a good chance (especially with an upgraded clutch) that the master cylinder has had it and is leaking. This was my problem. If it's leaking swap in a new one or rebuild it. When the master cylinder dies it will result in less and less clutch disengagement and so more shifting problems. So if raising the clutch pedal engagement point doesn't help or helps only for a while check this.

 

Yeah, I had the same problem...Unscrewed the rod, and it helped for a bit. But slowly the clutch engagement was bad again. Unscrewed the rod all the friggin way out, and helped a bit again. Only a temp fix.

From what I understand, from reading digests,etc - the clutch assembly has a crappy connection to another rod, and where they connect gets worn out, especially with harder clutches. Some people welded this together again, others replaced it. I guess if you let off your clutch, and you can still pull it forward (like me) you have the worn connection I am talkin bout.

 

Hey thanx Mike, at least now I look somewhere else not only the tranny to find a reason for shift-grinds, Few days ago I've noticed that even sittin' at idle with the clutch engaged I could gear a deep "thump" sound while going into 1st gear, then I've revved the engine (cluth still engaged) and selected 1st again, this time it grinded
I guess my car is definetelly not dis-engaging the clutch completelly
I'll try your idea soon, I'll let you know if it worked!

Thanx for posting that!!!

 

Yeah I went through the same terror, when I recenlty converted my car from an automatic to a 5-spd.

I could not get the bastard into 1st without a heavy grind. I thought the trans was done for.

I even had the rod turned all the way out, and everything.

Some other things to check

Another thing to check is the nut at the end of the rod that runs from the pedal to the clutch level. If the nut is loose, when you push in the pedal, the level has play before it actualls starts to push in the master cylinder. Pull the pedal back, and tighten that nut. Hard to access, 14 mm.

Another thing that really helped me was bleeding the master cylinder. YOu do the same thing you do as at the clutch slave, but you do it at the master. It helped quite a bit.

All else was covered.

 

Thanks for the great info. My 2nd Gen is doing the same thing. I'm pertty sure this is what I need to do.

Thanks DSM'ers,

 

I will be doing the work soon as I change the clutch. Thanks for all the info
Not sure where I would be without this forum

 

Not sure where I would be without this forum

Stranded

 

quote:
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Originally posted by Iceman21

Not sure where I would be without this forum

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Raped by the dealer.

 

Thanks for all the info. everyone. Just a quick question to whoever might know: Since I bought my '92 AWD Laser 2 years ago with 66,000 miles, I can never get the car into 1st without grinding unless I come to a complete stop, then I have no problem. Also, now when I shift into second, if I don't wait for a 2000 RPM fall after depressing the clutch, the transmission will grind. I can still shift at a high RPM (like 4000), as long as I wait after depressing the clutch at 6000 RPM. Do you think this is b/c of this clutch linkage problem, or my syncros or clutch?

 

That pin is called a cleaves pin. What the problem is that your only working on the adjustment ( BTW no need to unbolt the clutch master to adjust it ) and like Quad said it will only last till it wears out that pin some more. the only REAL fix is to fix/replace the clutch pedal assembly. the 2G doesn't suffer as much with this prob as the clutch master is on the left or right above the pedal where on the 1G is it above the gas pedal.

But keep spreading the good word but be aware that what you have said is only a temp answer to a problem with most 1G's

A MUCH quicker way to see if you pin is warn out, press on the clutch and then after it returns put your foot ( or hand ) under the pedal and lift it up. If it moves up then guess what??? that is the amount of play in the pin!! all in all most can live with the adjustment for a long time but some times it so bad that it needs to be replaced like the one on my AWD TSI with 197K on it



Bill Marino
Hole Shot Performance

 

I agree with Quadcylla in that this is basically a TEMPORARY fix. I also have another temporary fix for when that one runs out of pedal travel. The same guy that helped me actually welded a nut onto the linkage to provide him even more travel for the pushrod. It does work, but eventually the cleaves pin will round out the hole so bad that you need to replace the entire clutch pedal assembly. Parts are about $100 I believe. It's the 6 odd hours or so that it would take to remove the entire steering column and pedal assembly to replace it that's gonna hurt!!!

If anyone wants pics of how and where to weld the nut to get even more travel out of that linkage, let me know.

Mike

 

Yeah, removing the pedal assembly is something that is not fun.

Oh my. What I went through with that. You get the pedals in, but aligned them is another story. You have about 1/4 of an inch clearance on all the sides.

As someone once said "Prepare to swear like a World War I trench soilder."

 

I feel your pain, I've had to take out my pedal assembly 3 times, and replaced the pedal assembly parts twice, I also have an extra nut welded on for a huge range of adjustment. I have the art mastered and can remove and install the assembly in about 2 hours My tranny is still a bit notchy but I can shift fairly quickly, One thing I've noticed is with more power my shifting is slower (harder to do) I don't really understand how power would affect the speed of the shift other than the innertial momentum of the internal tranny parts is higher with quicker acceleration.
Mike "V8Killer"
fastest stock turbo DSM in Iowa

 

I'm curiuos how long does this temp. fix last? I have a fwd 93 talon tsi and it grinds like hell going into 3rd gear, will this temp fix help this problem? I'd hate to do this fix if it's only going to last a few months, now a few years thats ok cause I'll probally have to replace the pedal assem.

 

While thinking about doing this temp. fix. Please do not overlook the age of your clutch when troubleshooting your problem. You may just be prolonging the inevitable and ruin your tranny. And who wants to spend the time and money fixing that on top of the pedal assembly

 

My clucth is pretty new it only has about 1000 miles put on it, the grinding problem started before the clucth was replaced, now I know the sincroes in third are getting worn out, but will this temp fix help me?
It dosent grind in any other gear but third, I would really like to get rid of this problem without having to change the sincros due to money right now and for awile. I just whant to make the tranny last tell I get some money to rebuild it with better parts, if you have any ideas please help me I'm desprate man! This grinding is driving me crazy, and I cant understand why it shifts great in any other gear but third. HELP!!!!!!!

 

I'm curiuos how long does this temp. fix last?

This helped me about 3-4 months. I thought it was an awesome fix, until i realized it slowly came back.

 

Had the same problems. The only solution I found was replacing the whole assembly... I did the tweaking, adjusting the master cylinder, REPLACED all hydraulics and this was the best fix... of course, since I drove it like that for a while, my synchros are bad... so don't let it go TOO long!

 

Easier Fix than Pedal Assembly

I know its been over a year and a half since the last post but I have some more info for this fix.

It's not necessary to remove or replace the entire pedal assembly. Instead the part that wears is the "clutch lever" and costs about $15-20. It can be unbolted and swapped in a matter of 1-2 hours.

Here's a link to a prior post of mine:
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=520598#post520598

 

exactly what is wrong with mine as well.

i just replaced the clutch (had a shop do it for me) now have a 2600 act.

my pedal was adjusted by my friend who turned some rod thing, must be what your talking about.

and it is starting again to get very hard to shift into gears and never goes in smoothly to any of them and the pedal is on the floor

I'm going to try to turn that again to adjust it, i noticed one time i let it go to long, and then my cruise control stopped working, and i had to actually pull the pedal up with my foot.

does anyone have a picture of where this rod is that i have to turn?

 

The threaded rod adjuster you're talking about is on the master clutch cylinder. Oddly enough its located above the throttle and not the clutch pedal. Look at the clutch pedal and follow the black rod that travels toward the passenger side. Connected to that is the clutch lever (THAT is probably the problem). Connected to that lever is the rod which pushes the master cylinder sticking out of the fire wall.

Adjusting that rod will only buy you some time, and it can preload the clutch which is a very bad thing. If you adjusted the rod to the last threads and the clutch pedal doesn't return all the way unless you pull with your foot, or your cruise control doesn't work, then that is proof that the clutch lever is worn. Replace that and then readjust that rod.

It takes some flexibility and effort, but it can be replaced pretty quickly. Be careful when you buy a new one, inspect the inside surface of the hole, because I think its a factory flaw, my new one was. It should be smooth and flat.

 

CyByte, the rod is connected to the clutch pedal. If you get under the dash and follow the clutch pedal, you will see the rod. I would suggest checking the rubber boot that is at the end of that rod(it is attached to the firewall). If there is fluid coming from the area of that boot, then your master cylinder is shot. You can replace the cylinder(about $60) or you can rebuild it(about $30). I rebuilt mine and it has been fine ever since.

Josh

 

i think this is what your talking about???
http://www.eclipsegsx.com/info/info_clutch.htm

 

i have pictures that i just took with my digital camera, i dont see what im susposed to turn. i see something that goes into a metal thing (yes i am leaking fluid out of it) it is covered in some type of liquid type stuff.

it has threads on the side that does not enter the metal unit attached to the fire wall.

i tried turning it but can not get a grip on it, and its completely round. how do i turn this thing? also it appears there are a couple nuts that hold it on also, do i have to loosen a nut or anything first?

it is so cramped in there i can't get my arms to squeeze it with any leverage.