[Lipster]

OK, I've been on here a while and I've seen posts on different ways to improve shifting, adjustments and what not.

I've read removing rubber grommets, replacing pedal assemblys, hydraulics, 'shimming' the slave cylinder, adjusting master cylinders, steel lines, different fluids...
After my clutch fork snapped, I've had all the guts related to the clutch replaced! I even have my master cylinder adjusted all the way out!

WHAT REALLY WORKS FOR GOOD?! I've heard that shimming or positioning the slave cylinder works fine for a while, but it isn't permanent; might even load the clutch. blah blah blah...

Well, just in the past 2 days, the shifting has gotten pretty annoying. Like when I had my stupid crankwalk without the left hand turn problem and I can't adjust out my cylinder any further! I have not been beating the car so I honestly doubt synchronizers... especially with it just creeping up in the past few days.

Has anyone tried to rebuild the master cylinder and put a longer shaft in it???? Is this a bad to thing to do? Would this preload the clutch?!?

ARE THERE ANY KNOWN LONG TERM SOLUTIONS!?! I am just SOOOOOOOO SICK of this crap!

 

[beerglass]

Are you using red line tranny fluid? I know it sounds like bs but i had to almost stand on the shifter to get it into 1st and 2nd. Changed it as a last hope and bamb two days latter shiftes smooth as silk. Just my $.02.

Clinton
1990 Talon Tsi Awd @17 psi

 

[Lipster]

Well, I have BG Synchro in it now.

Unless the last doods that worked on my clutch guts replaced the gear oil... there is no more than 1,000 miles on it.

 

[beerglass]

Well it's only $24 so id change it to be sure. I used castrol syn before redline and it didn't work at all.

Clinton
1990 Talon Tsi Awd @17 psi

 

[Lipster]

Guess it can't hurt... redline is a good name. I honestly hope it does something cuz I'm starting to fear the clutch fork again...

 

[MoBoost]

Long term solution = TRE racing tranny!

 

[verserv]

adjust the cables on the shifter right above the shifter plate, that fixed alot of my troubles.

 

[Lipster]

Mo - I need money. I just don't know how dedicated I feel anymore to this thing to do that... The engine and clutches this past 2 months killed me!

verserv -
Ya know, for the life of the car, I never adjusted or played with the cables. Did you tighten them up a good bit? Or is it more of just a quarter inch and that does that job? I think that might be my next attempt

 

[verserv]

just took those stupid little bolt things. that are on the cables below the shifter (mines a 94 so it had one) and i moved it back, it tightend up shifting into 1&2. The one closest to the driver is the one i adjusted. Just moved it toward the back a little and tested it. Works good. I think the pre93 cars have two little bolt things that can be adjusted, one i each cable. just move that stupid little bolt and it tightens up the cable some.(if you tighten up much the car doesnt shift into reverse i have heard.)

 

[Lipster]

So this will help give cleaner shifting then since you'll get a more 'complete' shift throw?

 

[sab4you]

just took those stupid little bolt things. that are on the cables below the shifter (mines a 94 so it had one) and i moved it back, it tightend up shifting into 1&2. The one closest to the driver is the one i adjusted. Just moved it toward the back a little and tested it. Works good. I think the pre93 cars have two little bolt things that can be adjusted, one i each cable. just move that stupid little bolt and it tightens up the cable some.(if you tighten up much the car doesnt shift into reverse i have heard.)

This tip helps for grinding between 1st and 2nd? I only grind if I throw it fast.

 

[verserv]

mine was messed up for first and second, depending how you move it it will help other or all gears

 

[sab4you]

Well maybe I will give it a shot...

Could you describe in more detail - like where the bolts are,

what the cables, etc look like ( I have never messed with clutch stuff before)

and which way am I moving them (back - meaning towards back of car)?

 

[verserv]

towards back of the car. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/shifter3.html The second pick from the bottom shows the bolt thingy(technical term). I moved mine back and it helped.(mine is a 94 nt, has only one bolt not 2 like the picture, some cars may be different. Mess with it and shift it around with the car off to see how it goes into gear, then test drive it too.

 

[Lipster]

Yeah, I was diggin around in it tonight. I only have the one jam nut setup. I tried adjusting it and it didn't help much at all, which really has me more paranoid. Third gear is a real pain in the @ss...

I'll take more time tomorrow to play with it and fine tune it and see if I can figure something out.

I still wonder; would putting a longer adjustment rod in the master cylinder cause any kind of extra problems or wear out the hydraulics more quickly? Or even preload the clutch???

 

[aktalon]

I had a nut welded onto the thing the master cylinder pushrod screws into. This allows me to adjust it further out. As long as you adjust it properly it won't preload. I've never heard of anyone preloading it. As far as extra wear, I don't imagine it would harm it, it's just allowing the hydraulics to work as they were intended. I also replaced the clutch pedal. made a world of difference. If your fully adjusted out already, I imagine your problem is that it needs to be adjusted further. Get the nut welded on for $5. If your clutch pedal doesnt come up all the way than you need a new clutch pedal and fluid lever too. Trust me, I was dealing with this crap for the last couple months, and it finaly shifts good. That other stuff mentioned here is more for the shifter feel, but more than likely you clutch isn't disengageing properly.

[Edited by aktalon on 05-18-2001 at 03:21 AM]

 

[Lipster]

Well, I've replaced EVERYTHING, and I mean EVERYTHING and the only thing left is extending the master cyclinder push rod, unless someone has another solution.

I'm honestly paranoid that the release fork is again weakening or worse... and I want to know WHY or WHAT is making me have to extend that push rod on the master cylinder; if I can fix an underlying problem and not just mask it, I'd rather do that.

 

[Lipster]

Or.... flywheel stepping?

I saw it in another thread... forget which...

But, I had my flywheel stepped at .612. Anyone think that the ACT2600 would be more user friendly with a different stepping and maybe get a smoother shift??

 

[sab4you]

aktalon

aktalon, could you describe welding the nut?

Did you just extend the rod thing thats above the pedals, that goes into master cylinder?

DO you just take the rod fully out, then get either a longer one, or extended one - or is there some process to do this?

 

[Lipster]

Re: aktalon

aktalon, could you describe welding the nut?

Did you just extend the rod thing thats above the pedals, that goes into master cylinder?

DO you just take the rod fully out, then get either a longer one, or extended one - or is there some process to do this?

Yup... same questions here... I was thinking about it on the way home as I was grinding the damn gears... what did you weld? What causes this whole situation that you would NEED to have a longer rod???