maybe move this to help tech?

 

Just be patient. It's a 10 year old car you're working on, so problems will arise. I've been down this road a thousand times over the years with DSM's.

 

My GSX is currently sitting on jackstands now for this same problem. But I found a huge crack where the flapper is in my turbine housing. So big you can see your finger through it. Already recieved 2g manni and O2 housing and just got done porting and polishing them. I am now waiting on my new turbine housing I purchased off of ebay. But lets get to the studs. I had 4 to deal with. 2 of them I was able to retrieve with visegrips and the others broke off evenly with the head, 1 by the powersteering pump (same as yours) and the other was bottom row all the way to the passenger side. I broke quit a few easy outs until I decided to just completely drill out and tap for 10mm studs. 2g manni has the holes already drilled for 10mm studs at the bottom ends anyhow. I could not get the tap to start for the life of me. So decided to drill some more and found that I still had some of the old stud in there. Once I drilled all of the old stud out the tap went right in like butter. Make sure you have the right bits to drill into the old studs. Wood drill bits will snap. What I did was go from small size bit until I had it big enough for the tap. Just be careful not to go too far. Sorry so long but I hate to see a fellow DSMer go through what I just did. It sucks.
Laters
Steve

 

dude chill........9 out of 10 old dsm's have broken off studs, mine has 1 on either side and one in the middle, but with the nice thick 4 layer SS gasket i dont get any leaking at all even with them broken, i will get around to drilling them out but its not something thats like a super big deal

most 1g manifolds got cracks, and ur always going to find cracks int he exhaust housing on the 14b

when i ported my 14b i broke off 2 bolts in the exhaust housing from the o2 housing, and the cotter pin on the wastegate broke off, and the little bump on the center section that lines the exhaust side up

 

heh thanks for the support. thank god i didn't sell my other car yet.

i was never really worried about the manifold because i tried to research as much as possible and i did find out that they're prone to cracking. i had no clue that stud would be such a pain in the ass.

so the two holes on the 2g mani (power steering side, and other) can be drilled for 10mm? i've never really had to do this before so how do you know when all of the old stud is out? are you just supposed to estimate how deep you are inside the head? i'm worried about maybe drilling too deep or not getting straight inside the head and messing something up. is that a legitimate worry?

any idea if that NOT sealing would've made it run bad? can i use engine degreaser to get all of that gunk cleaned off to make it somewhat nice to look at and work around?

thanks guys

 

The two holes on the 2g manni are already drilled out for a 10mm stud.
When I finally knew all of the old stud was out is when a hollowed out stud fell out.
What I did to not drill too deep was measure one of the other holes on the block and marked my bits. Just be sure not to measure the one hole on the bottom row in the middle. There is a oil passage there and that hole goes deeper than the others. When I finally drilled through the old studs the drill shot foward a little and scared the $hit out of me. But apparently there is a small gap between the stud and block in the holes.
Drilling straight is a worry but just make sure that you are all aligned up and keep it steady.
And yes, if you had an exhaust leak then you were loosing boost and probably setting off the knock sensor with the noise (Like I was).
I used carburator cleaner to clean my mess. Mines was just like yours, all oiling and just nasty. All clean now though.

SIDE NOTE: I bought some stainless steel 8mm studs/lock nuts from drexel ($23.00 for the set) and bought the 2 10mm studs/nuts from concielli($7.66 for both). Shouldn't have a problem with this anymore in the future, but you never know. More assurance though with the SS studs.

Laters
Steve

 

ok that helps a little bit. here's the new problem. the EZ-out that we were using is broke off inside the hole and every time we try to drill through that we get a broken bit. we've gone through eight bits so far. we try tapping it with a hammer and pointed screwdriver or a pick but NOTHING will move that shit out of the way. as soon as we get that ez-out out we're home free.

suggestions for that??


thanks

 

Like before, I too broke 3 easy outs inside the old studs. I just used drill bits specifically made for metal. The only drill bit I snapped was the smallest one. But you have to start out small and work your way up. What kind of drill bits are you using? I believe mine are titanium bits.

 

i'm thinking about using a die grinder and maybe putting a smaller coarse tip and grinding the EZ-out down to little or nothing... does that sound feasable?

 

did you guy pull the head out to drill the stud out? i broke a stud in my head to and i started to drill and the bit went in on a angal, what should i do

 

so far i'm trying to leave everything togetheer as much as i can. i'm going to try and buy some titanium bits tomorrow and maybe something for a die grinder. i'll let ya know how that goes.

 

Go to sear's. I think you guys have them in the states. They have things for stripped screws. Its a easyout kinda. warm the car up, take off the manifold. Put one of these on a drill in reverse. Put a lot of presure on it and pull the trigger. should come out.

 

I bought my bits from ACE hardware. Be careful with the die grinder because I also tryed that avenue but the grinder kept jumping around. So it didn't work for me. Also I think if the carbide bur gets locked in there the grinder itself will spin and you probably will lose control of it.

LAZER420gsx97 did you guy pull the head out to drill the stud out? i broke a stud in my head to and i started to drill and the bit went in on a angal, what should i do

I didn't pull the head. I just removed the radiator to make more room. About the angle, how bad of an angle is it?

 

4 layer gasket and 3 broken studs with no leaks here

 

4 layer gasket and 3 broken studs with no leaks here

where would i find a place with a 4 layer gasket? could you point me in the right direction?

 

where would i find a place with a 4 layer gasket? could you point me in the right direction?

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/flangesandgaskets.htm - Their 1/2" thick gasket should do the job.

 

I didn't pull the head. I just removed the radiator to make more room. About the angle, how bad of an angle is it?


well it's bad that there is no way that i drill it know with out pulling the head out. i think i will just leave it, or one of my friend's said that he can weld the new stud on and grind a bit around it. but that i have to be carfull not to screw the nut in to thight. what do u guy think? leave it, pull the head and drill, weld, i do not like the sound of welding buy the head.

 

just leave the broken stud in there and go with the rre gasket.

 

i must be blind i can not find gaskets on rre page.

 

This one?

 

can you make a link to that page,how much is that gasket, also the stud that is broke is the top left one, will it still leak with that gasket? thank's for the help.

 

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/flangesandgaskets.htm - Their 1/2" thick gasket should do the job.

here's the link. the gasket it just a little ways down the page. it sells for $30.

 

sorry to be a post whore but i tried the titanium bits today and they didn't work either. i'm guessing i'm just going to order the gasket.

i'll let everyone know how it works when i get it and get the car back together.

 

here's the link. the gasket it just a little ways down the page. it sells for $30.

Um, thats a flange for making a header. Where can I find the 4 layer gaskets yous speak of?

 

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclturbos.htm

its on the turbo page, halfway down, 20 beans, just fill out the form they have for ordering and just put the name of it at the bottom, they dont give a part number, and then email that to them