well, by calculating the actual theoretical yields of the motor based on piston velocity, crank shaft length, and cam angle, i think this will solve ur problem:

I think your VTEC fluid is llow.

 

If he knows whats hes doing -- all you need to comminicate to him is
"get the most out of my car" and then show him the money-

 

Those low numbers sound about right. With 720s and a manual ECU my settings went from +5 at low idle to -42 at high 6000. The dead time of those injectors is WAY off from 390s, so the numbers will never be as easy as just doing the math.

 

the numbers will never be as easy as just doing the math.

I agree. The car drove well so that must be right.

 

I've been running a evo iii o2 for a while now. Except for my exhaust hanger breaking off there have been no other ill effects. I plan on getting this fixed soon though. Hope it helps

 

Hey man I agree with you..IT SUCKS to only be able to run 18lbs after paying 800+ for a FMIC, 300+ for a turbo, injectors, fuel pump, etc...it comes down to thousands only for 18lbs on the street?? I run 15lbs on my stocker on 93 pump octane w/out any serious knock.(you did as well at one time)


Its got to be either two things.

1. Maybe we are just so spoiled by our cars that the number 18 just seems weak. In actuality, 18lbs is a lot of boost. Dont get me wrong, its not over the top redicously huge, but think about it, the 18lbs you are looking at is NOT on a stock turbo either. Its funny because while driving yesterday, Syed pointed out an M3, we both agreed its a nice car..but when it came down to the hustle of the car, acceleration, etc...we said its 'aright'. Here we are, with our $2000 beaters calling a $40k plus car 'aright' in terms of straightline performance...

2. The only other thing that you can do is run your 18lbs and see what you run at the track. If that 18lbs gets you a solid 12 sec slip you got no reason to be complaining..

Hey bro sorry I couldn't get to finish the phone call..we were at the popo station and I got busy with other stuff...Ill give you a call back though..

Salam,
Nomie

 

well, by calculating the actual theoretical yields of the motor based on piston velocity, crank shaft length, and cam angle, i think this will solve ur problem:

I think your VTEC fluid is llow.

Listen to this guy, he knows what he's talkin about!

 

I had a question for the guy at the shop. I was asking him about when I am boost leak testing the car. I told him that I put the coupler on the front of the turbo's intake, and when i add compressed air i can feel the pressure tester expanding. When i run to the boost gauge to see what it is at, its coming down from 20 lbs.

I asked him is this how it should be, one of his customers responded that it should hold at least 20 pounds, without coming down. I asked Adam (the tuner) did you boost leak test the car. He replies No. I asked him why not? He says I only do what people ask me to do, when I start doing other things and people haveto pay for it they complain.

WHO THE HELL TUNES A CAR WITHOUT BOOST LEAK TESTING IT? I mean whats the point.

I am not after being able to tell people I run 20+ pounds, and being a keyboard horsepower warrior. Its that I have some money under the hood of this car in mods. Close to a couple thousand. ANd I want the most performance for my money.

I am suprised nobody had anything to say about this thread. I was hoping to see some confirmation about the compensation. I mean people run 550 with a 16g, and I am using 680's. Injectors that are almost 20% bigger and the compensation is at 10-13% on the AFC. This story doesnt add up.

Thanks for reading.

 

with my small 16g i was running aroudn the same boost as you(give or take a fewpsi), and i found that to be my limit without gettin some knock, this was on 91 pump with 550cc's, and huge fmic, i was tuning with greddy emanage.

now im running a 50trim with 780cc injectors, and have also found that about 18psi is my limit on pump gas

also it is not the tuners obligation to do a boost leak test for you. who the hell takes there car to get tuned with boost leaks???, you should of done a boost leak test before you took it to him.

maybe you should look into water/alky injection to get more boost out pump gas,im looking to get my car tuned by a pro in a few months, once i get my boost leaks taken care of and have my new clutch/flywheel/ tranny in.

 

I had a question for the guy at the shop. I was asking him about when I am boost leak testing the car. I told him that I put the coupler on the front of the turbo's intake, and when i add compressed air i can feel the pressure tester expanding. When i run to the boost gauge to see what it is at, its coming down from 20 lbs.

I asked him is this how it should be, one of his customers responded that it should hold at least 20 pounds, without coming down. I asked Adam (the tuner) did you boost leak test the car. He replies No. I asked him why not? He says I only do what people ask me to do, when I start doing other things and people haveto pay for it they complain.

WHO THE HELL TUNES A CAR WITHOUT BOOST LEAK TESTING IT? I mean whats the point.

I am not after being able to tell people I run 20+ pounds, and being a keyboard horsepower warrior. Its that I have some money under the hood of this car in mods. Close to a couple thousand. ANd I want the most performance for my money.

I am suprised nobody had anything to say about this thread. I was hoping to see some confirmation about the compensation. I mean people run 550 with a 16g, and I am using 680's. Injectors that are almost 20% bigger and the compensation is at 10-13% on the AFC. This story doesnt add up.

Thanks for reading.

This is the reason why I dont like to tune. When you go to get the car tuned it should be ready,boost leaks,plugs,oil,water,etc. if you bring your car for a tune thats what you get. Did you you ask the guy if he changed your oil?

 

This is the reason why I dont like to tune. When you go to get the car tuned it should be ready,boost leaks,plugs,oil,water,etc. if you bring your car for a tune thats what you get. Did you you ask the guy if he changed your oil?

Exactly what this guy said...

Its not the tuners obligation to have your car ready for a dyno..Its YOUR job to prep your car to make sure your car isnt going to take a shit when its getting dynoed!!!

Unless you make some arrangements with the guy who is going to dyno your car to check for leaks,plugs,wires, etc.... it's going to cost you.

I dont understand...if you have thousands under the hood in performance mods like you claimed earlier...how the hell dont you know how to check for boost leaks. Or did you have a shop put the mods in for you

 

I think you guys misunderstood him...

Firstly, he mentioned in his FIRST post that..

I have never been down this tuning road before, so I am just wondering if I am doing everything right.

He sorta had an idea of what he wanted, but he wasn't sure how he wanted to get his results.

Secondly, he DID in fact check for boost leaks..I supplied him the pressure tester..

I had a question for the guy at the shop. I was asking him about when I am boost leak testing the car. I told him that I put the coupler on the front of the turbo's intake, and when i add compressed air i can feel the pressure tester expanding. When i run to the boost gauge to see what it is at, its coming down from 20 lbs.

So, he did his part, he peiced it together, get new couplers, t-bolt clamps, gaskets wherever we thought it was necessary. Heck, this guy even changed his injector o-rings because they were a source of a boost leak!

It was not out of negligence that he took the car over there. He did everything he could think of, and then he took it there. Why am I supporting him? Because I was there in some parts of the process..

So, anyways, here is my question as well. When you pressure test the intake system, how long should the boost stay at a certain psi? Or is it normal for it to drop down?

Nomie

 

I heard it is normal for it to drop.. as long as you have time to run to the gauge.. and see it drop slowly i think its fine?
if not.. damn.. my car is fucked up too :-\

 

How did your car come out after adem worked on it.

 

I think you guys misunderstood him...

Firstly, he mentioned in his FIRST post that..


He sorta had an idea of what he wanted, but he wasn't sure how he wanted to get his results.

Secondly, he DID in fact check for boost leaks..I supplied him the pressure tester..


So, he did his part, he peiced it together, get new couplers, t-bolt clamps, gaskets wherever we thought it was necessary. Heck, this guy even changed his injector o-rings because they were a source of a boost leak!

It was not out of negligence that he took the car over there. He did everything he could think of, and then he took it there. Why am I supporting him? Because I was there in some parts of the process..

So, anyways, here is my question as well. When you pressure test the intake system, how long should the boost stay at a certain psi? Or is it normal for it to drop down?

Nomie

Okay...I hadnt read the thread thoroughly...I apologize...

Yes, the pressure is supposed to decline when you disconnect the compressed air.

 

Aright, now that we have that settled, another question... Im takin over his thread

Adam told him you shouldn't run over 18lbs on pump gas...the reasoning? 'It wont last'

What wont last? I dunno..anyone have an idea?

Now, say for example, Zishan runs 21lbs of boost daily with NO detonation. Whats wrong with that? Whats not going to last? Also, can a small 16g run 26lbs of boost and still make power!?!
I thought they were limited to around 22psi...at least thats where they are efficient till..or so I heard..there are a lot of misconceptions that float around..Ive noticed that lately when you do things yourself..

Nomie

 

I run 22 psi daily on a well tuned 16g. I dont see why you cant run 21 psi, as long as youre not detonating. Anything over 23psi, I would use a higher octane than 93 IMO.

 

Agreed 100%

 

Even if you were running on forged internals???

 

I run 22 psi daily on a well tuned 16g. I dont see why you cant run 21 psi, as long as youre not detonating. Anything over 23psi, I would use a higher octane than 93 IMO.

I agree too. I think 20-21 psi. is conservative, reliable and repeatable.

Adam told him you shouldn't run over 18lbs on pump gas...the reasoning? 'It wont last'

What wont last? I dunno..anyone have an idea?

I asked him why I couldnt go above 18 psi and he said "its detonating" I asked him why do you think its detonating, he says its the gas. It's on 93 octane. I told him I was looking for 20+ and he said that he's seen it done before but it doesnt last. Meaning people are unconciosuly detonating because of their greed with the boost and are cooking their cars.

How did your car come out after adem worked on it.

Adam isnt done with it yet, the car is still in his hands. I drove it after he tuned it and it felt good. Smoother across the entire powerband. I think the problem here is not incomptency just communication.

He is still working on the car and depending on how this all works out I would consider recommending him. All give a feedback after its all done.

 

Ill be seeing you soon...I just ordered my INTAKE pipe!! You better watch out D-Shawn..

Nomie

 

I would be somewhat angry if your only running 18 psi and have knock problems. im running that and hopefully more on just the 14b and pump gas. i have a feelin that 20psi is more than doable for you. if he has you set for 18psi than turn it up to 20 psi and see what happens. if you start to knock add a lil bit more fuel. if the knocking doesnt go away than you know the guy was legit and that you truthfully just cant run it.

 

Be glad you can even run 18 psi without the ecu pulling timing.

We often see knock count problems in 1gs as low as 14 psi. They aren't really detonating, but the ecu often sees some kind of noise pattern in the mechanical noise of the motor that it doesn't like and is programmed to think is detonation. The knock sensor setup in a 1g is utterly stupid and very inconsistant.

The answer to it is simple and one that 1g owners often do not like to hear..........

AEM EMS with a 2g knock sensor!

 

Here we are, with our $2000 beaters calling a $40k plus car 'aright' in terms of straightline performance...

I think this is totally fallacious thinking. People dont buy m3s to race in a straight line. most buy it because:

1. it looks amazing
2. luxury luxury luxury
3. amazing handling
4. relatively quick.
5. no knock issues (sorry had to through that in )

You know i like DSMs, but its no m3 by any means. An m3 imo is way more fun to drive than a fwd dsm is. There is more to a car than 35 mph roll downs.

 

I think this is totally fallacious thinking. People dont buy m3s to race in a straight line. most buy it because:

1. it looks amazing
2. luxury luxury luxury
3. amazing handling
4. relatively quick.
5. no knock issues (sorry had to through that in )

Haha, you mean taking college educated women out on dates in a car that smells like raw fuel because of no cat, with 272 cams and no balance shafts keeps the seat shaken is not a turn on for her??

Owe yeah, and when you do a mild 1 gear pull going straight, you hear from her “please don’t kill us”.


Haha, sometimes that second NICE ride could be a good thing. =)