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TheOracles1gdsm

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Okay guys, its me again, same problem. I have a few questions.

Heres what I know.

Im idleing from 1100-1200 RPMS once every second, and when I tap the gas, it goes up to 1500 and Stays there.
No Vacuum Leaks.
TPS is set at 900 OHMS closed throttle.
ISC is good.
ECU is good.
Engine is good.
BISS screw is ALL the way in the TB.
02 Sensor is clean and functioning.
Exhaust smoke is gray, and smells rich.
Fuel Injectors are Clicking LOUDLY, like their staying open. Their USED.
Spark Plugs are fouled, and have fuel on them.
I hard wired the Resistor Pack Into the Fuel Harness and dont know if its working properly.
CAS is not set, Ignition Timing is Advanced, to what I dont know.
I dont Have a Digital Timing gun yet, just the old fashioned Inductive Ones.
Throttle Cable Linkage is Perfect.
I can tell a few of my grounds are weak.

Questions 1: Arent the fuel injectors ground fired? My grounds are weak, and I may have wired the Resistor Pack Incorrectly, But Im confident I didnt. Could Dirty Injectors be keeping them Open? The fuel pump ground, if it isnt grounded right, could it keep the injectors open?

Question 2: The Haynes Manual sais the TPS should be at 1100 OHMS, If I raise it from 900 to 1100 OHMS will my Idle Rise or Drop???

Questions 3: Should I or can I put Lo Impedance Injectors in, even with the Resistor pack still wired up? Or should I just pull my Injectors out and ship them off to be cleaned?

Tomorrow I will open up the Fuel Harness and check the wiring, Any feedback you professionals got for me I appreciate it, and will try anything. Ive held onto this paperweight for 3 years now, I dont wanna let it go.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
The Throttle Body came off of a WORKING car that IDLED fine. I doubt its the FIAV, the ISC or the TPS.

I will take another throttle body and put it on to see if that changes the problem.

I will also remove my fuel injectors and see if I can blow air through them without having any battery connected to them, to see if they are stuck open.

Can anyone answer the TPS question? Imma put it on 1.1k OHMS like the manual sais to do. See if that lowers the RPMS closer to 750 or not.

The tick from the injectors is not your normal tick. I put a stetho up to the valve cover, its not the lifters, the engine has a fresh rebuild with only 2k miles on it. The Tick is coming from the injectors, and jesus its so loud you can hear it as soon as you step up to the engine bay.
 
Yes, the injectors are fired by a ground, but the ground is inside the ECU.

Is the throttle closed switch working properly? Is it hooked up?

I would email an injector shop and see what they say about the loud ticking of a DSM injector.

The resistor pack is easy to wire in. You should have found the splice in the wiring harness that went from 1 wire to 4 wires. The 1 wire goes to the center wire of the resistor pack and the other 4 to the remaining wires. If that's how you did it, I would just test the pack to make sure the connections are good.

Sam
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
I will try resetting the TPS to be around .48 -.52 V

I will also test the Injectors to see if their stuck open, and clean them if they are. These were USED injectors from EBAY. I wouldnt be suprised.

My battery is dead, So I use the battery out of my Chevy when I need to run my Eclipse. So the ECU is constantly being reset. She fires right up, idles high just fine untill its warmed up, then goes down to 1000 rpms and start surging to 1100 or 1200.

I am looking into the JMFab FIAV Redirect Plate, but as a last resort.

The ECU's number 1 pigtail was also Hardwired in from a donor Wiring harness. I am confident all those wires were wired correctly, it took me like 90 minutes to do that.

When I see the exhaust smoke pattern, its looking as if only 1 cylinder is firing correctly, but all four plugs are fouled. The coil pack is working fine,

But I will test the resistor pack tomorrow. Ill defnitly be back on tomorrow to let you guys know what I find, but its also gonna be my Dads birthday, so time will be limited for me.
 
Discussion starter · #8 · (Edited)
I completely forgot to mention, Its a 1994 NON TURBO throttle body, but it looks fine.

I was reading about the CAS, according to my manual, its the Camshaft/Crankshaft Position Sensor that tells the Injectors when to fire.

Mine is not set to where it should be because I do not have a Digital Timing Gun. Is there any place you think is safe to position that CAS ?
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Ok, I have the Sears Inductive Timing Light with no screen or anything. Just the Clamp for the number 1 wire, and the alligator clips to power it.
I dont really understand how thats supposed to tell me how advanced or retarded my ignition timing is. Could you explain, the Thread on Plymouth Laser.com isnt helping me much, how do I know how much to turn the CAS clockwise or counterclockwise without any digital screen? Im so confused about that part.

After I run all my tests tomorrow, and buy some new Spark Plugs, Im going to try to start it without the CAS plugged in, I read its fine to do this. Is that correct?
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Okay I took off the fuel rail and Injectors and Im going to clean them thoroughly tomorrow, as well as check the resistor pack wiring and rewire it with thicker gauge wire just to be sure. ( is that safe??? )

Also, when inspecting my TB, one of my vacuum caps was badly damaged, so I removed all of them and filled the TB lines with red RTV, and capped them with new Vacuum Caps.

If I dont have normall Idle by tomorrow night Im pretty sure my FIAV is shot.
(Headaches)
 
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