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Ok I skimmed thru the thread.

Take off that N/T FPR its base fuel pressure is actually 47.6 psi.
How do I know, because I run one ( purposely ) but I have compensated for it in my tune. I am on a chip tune also except I burn my own chips and can edit mines whenever I want. I used my maft translator to do small changes to my afr.

For one, I think you either have a bad 1g mas or its just simply getting over flowed and leaning you way out.

Id recommend you first do a thorough boost leak test with soap and water, then to get a 2g mas or a gm maft, AND a WBO2 ASAP, and also to put stock turbo fpr back on, and to set base timing at 5* were its suppose to be at.
Also take out those BRP7ES plugs and go get some BR7ES plugs.
Its known fact that projected spark plugs are a little more prone to detonation than non projected.

Your knock sounds real if your blowing H.G.'s and the weak H.G. is acting as a fuse to save your rods and pistons. Before you do any more pulls id recommend you try out the stuff I suggested first.

GL

 

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I'm on a keydiver tune also right now, so I have a little flexibility on some of these variables.

I had to switch to the n/t FPR because I fear that my turbo FPR was actually damaged. I could 'swivel' the top of it almost completely around. The n/t didn't solve it, but it's all I have right now, and my next chip will have this compensated for.

I've already done a boost leak test, and I have found no major ones. Just a small one at the throttlebody shaft.

The MAF was a known good one from a reputable seller on here, however, I'm pretty sure it's hacked. Two rivets on the sides of the oval section have obviously been cut, and as I've stated before, I've never seen a non hacked MAF before, so I didn't think to include that in the parameters for the chip. That also will be changed w/ my next chip. I have two 2g MAFs laying around, so I'll probably just move to that for safety's sake.

I'm definitely going to say that my knock is real, unlike your spontaneous knock. I put in a fresh Mitsu knock sensor and nothing changed. And the fact that I've popped two HG's. The first was one of the gaskets that Burnett03 uses, but I'm pretty sure that I had improperly torqued the head down the first time. Only took a couple days of light runs to pop it. The second HG was a fail-pro, and I bought it just to get me down the road. I torqued that one down correctly, and it lasted two weeks. What popped it was a prolonged run diagnosing my knock problem. This third gasket is an OEM and has been torqued down correctly as well. I've been taking it easy on it, and as soon as I see any amount of knock on the logger, I'm out of throttle.



Yeah, though I've been around here for a few years, this is my first turbo 'venture.' I've been on the 1.8 side of things for all this time, so I'm not used to the extra care and caution, as well as money and responsibility, that comes along with this. However, I'm getting accustomed to this quite quickly.

Knock previously only presented itself right around 4.5, and it went from 0 to 43 instantly. Right as the turbo hit 18 psi. I've been doing some moderated throttle runs and I'm safe @ 10 psi and only get a few counts @ 14-15 psi. However, the knock comes in sooner now than it did when the base timing was set a 10* Don't know the reason for that, though.




I was on the turbo FPR for the previous two HGs and switched to the N/T when I noticed that the turbo FPR could 'spin.' Again, it isn't a magic cure, and my mileage is suffering, but at least I know this FPR is a good one.

Next paycheck I'm grabbing one of the JAW widebands. It's not fancy, but it'll work. Also, I'm waiting for my next chip to come in which will address the FPR and MAF issues. I'm betting that will solve all of this, but I'll keep you guys updated.

I still highly recommend the wideband. Its like having a flash light in the dark.
For all you know you could be running a 15.1 WOT AFR and not even know it. Or you could be running richer than 9:1 and knocking from rich knock.
You need to be able to see whats going on with fuel.Checking plugs isnt reliable in my opinion, at least not on a turbo car that already runs hotter.

Tell Jeff to make your next chip for 2g mas compensation, and also tell him you are running the NT FPR and he can compensate for that in your new chip. It basically will make it like you have bigger injectors than you do.

TB shaft seals is typical dsm boost leak, actually I have it as well. It will progressively get worse, at least mines did, and it can screw with your tune.
Id fix that asap as well.

Also see if Jeff can incorporate some kind of extra warning feature for knock in your new chip. For example making your check engine light or something come on whenever you got a certant amount of knock... I have a knock buzzer that goes off whenever the KS see's 10 or more counts of knock. It buzzes loud enough that I hear it even over my loud exhaust with windows down and radio on. This allows me to take my foot of the gas instantly if theres a problem, and plus Im not always logging the car when Im driving.

 

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Yea fix that TPS, maybe your ecu thinks your still in closed loop due to the tps percentage being so low, therefore at wot your getting ''higher'' closed loop timing.

I also still think a wideband is the best next thing you can do.
And you can have jeff make the check engine light come on after a certain knock count.
Or you can have him do like I did with my chips ( i burn my own) and hook up a cheap radio shack electronic buzzer and mount it in the interior some where ( mines in the hole were the dash speaker used to be behind gauge cluster) and then run the black wire to ground, and the hot wire thru the firewall up to your purge solenoid hot wire under the hood, and have the ecu told to activate the purge solenoid after a certant knock counts, thus setting off the buzzer.

So 10 counts of knock or more I get this loud 'Beeeeep'

 

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Personally i have my CEL flash at 2counts.. But i have a smaller window for error. Ten seems high. Either way if you see that cel flash GET YOUR FOOT OFF THE PEDAL.

I dont think 10 counts is a lot, but I think 10 degs of timing pulled is though lol.

OP, to burn your own chips you need the program which I think you can still download (evilscribe/ tunerpro RT.)
And you need a chip burner, I have the willems eprom chip burner its a older one, but they have newer ones which you can find on moates.net, and you need the chips which are the AT29C256 chips. Thats all you need but theres more you can add to that to make it a easier experience ( i.e. Ostrich.)

 

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I tune cars for zero knock, end of story. Anymore is too much. So ya 10degrees is to much IMO.

Thanks to the good work of the members of the DSM-ECU list the differences between knock and octane are easier to see. It turns out knock will retard timing startng with one count. It takes about 2.83 counts of knock to pull one degree of timing. So one count of knock pulls .35 degree timing, or about 1/3.

To better clarify what Im saying, I just dont allow the knock counts to exceed 10. I dont actually set the tune up to show 10counts every pull. On my car for example, normally first and 2nd gear doesnt knock at all, and 3rd and 4th gear pulls about 4-6 "counts" total if I wind it out, but whatever knock I have disappears quickly. That is actually not harmful and Id consider that a good tune...

10 counts of knock can potientially pull 3 degs of timing.
How I tune is if it spikes 6-8 counts or whatever I dont fret, I just watch my timing maps. If the timing paused just in that location in the rpm range were it knocked, but then immediately continued climbing afterwards, then the knock wasnt bad or possible not even real knock.
If my timing doesnt reach peak timing i dialed in on my tune then I need to retune a little. Its all in your timing curve, but watching knock counts alone is useless...

Not just my own opinion, Ive read/ heard this from other top tuners in all kinds of different car circles, but when aiming to make power, generally cars that are tuned for zero knock are too far behind the safety margin, and that theyre leaving a lot on the table, especially on cars like ours with overly sensitive knock sensors that can pick up all kinds of fake knock.

Also as odd as it may sound, Ive read that a little knock may actually clean off carbon deposits on plugs/pistons etc.
There has been people trying to squeeze out every last bit of timing/boost out of their cars tuning them for 15-20 knock counts for yrs and the motor dealing with it just fine, though I do disagree with those methods.

 

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More info regarding knock/timing in stock dsm ecu.

Octane is the long term trim applied to ignition timing. If knock is below 3, then octane is increased. If knock is between 3-7, octane is held steady. If knock goes over 7, octane is decreased, which will reduce timing all the time, even when there isn't any knock. That's why the 'Octane Reset' feature is popular in eprom chips.

 

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^ +1 to saying what I said better than I did.

I dont tune for knock, but I dont fret if it has a few counts here and there, 10counts is just were my buzzer goes off, which means theres something really wrong. If I set my buzzer to go off after a measely two counts of knock then Id be hearing that thing ALL the time due to vibrations/phantom knock, overly sensitive stock KS.

Each gear has different loads, and obviously your tune can change some in different weather conditions,so its understandable to be a little conservative.
On your car your running meth and pushing a lot of boost so your methods are just fine, especially when you start making a lot of power.

In my case, I still stand by what I said, Id be leaving a lot of power on the table aiming for zero knock counts in every gear. For example, say I ran the car thru 1st gear, 2nd gear and 3rd with zero knock, but then took it thru say 4th gear pull and got 5 counts, Im not going to detune it because I got 5counts in 4th when the other gears didnt knock. Especially considering my main objective like I stated before is watching how the timing curve climbs.
If I dont reach peak timing I dialed in then obviously I need to retune because the knock was bad enough to hold timing lower OR retard it.
If it has some knock here and there but goes away quickly and I still am advancing in timing then screw it the tune is fine...

You just have to expect that upper gears to pull a little more knock, and if your running a lot of boost you got to know the time frame that you can be full throttle due to heat soak.

 

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My car never knocks, that's what ethanol and meth injection can do for you

Well then you dont have to worry about a limited tune now do you.
Ethanol is still to far away from me to run, I dont want to drive 100 miles round trip to use the stuff, and I never cared for meth, so I am just trying to get the most I can out of regular shitty 93...

 

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I was going to say Burnett, its a lot easier to say you tune to zero knock when you run e85. I have PK and its bad. I have done a lot of tuning on my bro's 16g car and at max boost and as much as 28* timing with zero knock.

On my car which is about the same I see usually zero but sometimes up to 15 counts in the midrange when afr is 11.1, timing is around 21* and just a 16g spiking too 30psi. I think its all PK because on e85 I should not be seeing detonation at this low of air/flow. So now I tune with the wbo2, boost and timing. I dont even look at knock due too my PK issue. Ive seen 20+ counts over and over and plugs look fine everytime. I hope dsmlink helps when I get it.

PK sucks to get your timing pulled randomly.
I dont know why some people have it and others dont.
Like I dont have it as long as my knock sensor isnt too loose or tight on the block. But perhaps the revised lifters will help you, I have them.