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jd1828af

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
im trying to fix the really bad phantom knock my car has. i have an idea to fix it but i have one question. does the knock sensor have 1 or 2 wires comming off the back of it.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
i did that a long time ago.

i tried everything to get rid of the PK. ive changed timing, used higher octane and lots of other things to try to fix it. at least anything that doesnt cost too much. im not changing the lifter because im way too broke right now. every dsm ive owned had PK. im getting so sick of it but i think ive got a cheap fix for it that should work. i should have it finished in two weeks.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
DR.Spock said:
one of my buddies with a GVR-4 fixed his PK by changing the fuel pressure, just a thought
ive tried that too.

someone on the yahoo phantom knock group came up with this idea. i dont think anyone has tried it yet.

my car gets a lot of PK under 3k rpm and again a 4k. it almost always happens under normal driving. not beating on it or anything. i cant even use my cruse control on long drives because it will start to knock like crazy.

heres the fix:
im going to use a spdt relay to switch between a desenseitized sensor and a real one. it will be hooked up to a hobbs switch so that at 3psi the real sensor will switch on. that way whenever im beating on the car the real sensor will be on. this probably wont get rid of all my PK but should take car of a lot of it. im also going to add in a few safety things to it. like a bypass switch in the car. so that i can switch to the real sensor if i have to. also might put in a led so that i know that the sensor is on or not.
 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
my 92 tsi that im doing this fix on has had PK since it was stock. when i bought this car every single thing was stock. the first thing i did was hook up my logger to it and sure enough it had PK all over the place. since then ive tried the tuning but nothing helps.

one thing my car loves to do to me. i do lots of long driving, from school back home is about 200miles. i do this a few times a month. ill be on the highway and ill get up to 80mph and set the cruse control. then i sit back an wait for the PK. it seems very unlikely that my car is going to knock while going at constant speed with 10-20 inhg vacuume on the intake.

i want to get a wideband and see what my actual a/f looks like but that a little out of my price range right now.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
whats going on with my car is most likely bad lifters or worn b-shaft bearing. since ive tried tuning the car many many times and nothing helps. which means that this is not real knock but just noise that the sensor is picking up. all im trying to do is set it up so that i can drive my car normally wihtout having to deal with 43 counts of knock and 0deg timing everywhere i go. just so we have this straight this is for normal everyday grandma driving . which is why im putting in a bypass switch so that i can turn on the real sensor when i need it. which is also why it set up to a hobbs switch. that way if i forget to turn the sensor on it will automatically turn on at a Xpsi of boost.

if i owned my own shop and had lots of cash to fix it the right way, thats exactly what i would do. right now im full time in college with no job and living off of whats left of my student loan check. so in my case i can spend $30 for the chepo band-aid fix or spend $200+ for lifters and b-shaft removal. i will do the lifter and b-shafts as soon as i can. this is just a band-aid fix to make my basically stock daily driver a little easier to get around in.

this is exactly why i didnt want to say how i was doing this. i am 100% sure that i have a false knock caused by mechanical noise in the engine. just so people know this would be a very dumb thing to do if you are not 100% sure you dont have real knock.
 
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