Here's my take on this.
This mod consists of two separate parts.
The MAFT, or the translator part of this mod comes from Ramchargers. It costs $199 and is found
here.
Seems this is the hottest mod since the 16g came out so they are overwhelmed with orders. Be patient. You will get it and it will be good.
You will need another part which is the GM MAF. Either the 3" or the 3.5" version will work. I'm using a 3" MAF. I got mine from a junkyard in Alabama that replied to my parts request that I posted at http://www.junkyarddog.com/. Mine was $40 shipped, but that was before everybody in auto recycling probably noticed these were a hot item all of a sudden. Anyways it came guaranteed to work. Make sure you get the right MAF! The engine code letter on the VIN of the junk GM vehicle has to match one of those posted in the very long list of donor cars already posted here at dsmtalk over in the Parts Talk Forum. Search for it.
Install is straight forward, very quick and simple, it comes with explicit instructions. Use them because they work. I installed mine in the UIC pipe after the BOV. I had to cut my UIC pipe to make room for the MAF and the couplers. Mine is coupled right onto the TB elbow. No problems and the sound of a FP3065 venting to atmosphere without the car going pig rich is rather shweet. I got my 2.5" to 3" silicone reducing couplers and the t-bolt clamps at RRE. The couplers went on with very little hassle even though the O.D. of the GM MAF is more than 3". I descreened my 3" MAF before installation.
With my 650 injectors the 5% increments that the MAFT adjusts in can be sensitive and are immediately felt and seen in the fuel trims and in the knock counts at WOT. It is easy to tune and again the instructions tell you just like it is and which way to turn the dials to go leaner or richer and even what percentage change of the signal each click of a dial means. You still have to have a clue of where your car is at with what injector size, fuel pressure, turbo size, what MAS, etc. and how all of that affects where you want the dials set at. I'd highly recommend the use of a PocketLogger to verify your fuel trims, knock counts and timing advance curve to really set this correctly, so that the car runs at it's best within just a few miles of the install.
I have a '91 AWD and I went with the 2G version of the MAFT. Version 1.3 I believe it is. I already had a 2G mas and S-afc in the car and was pretty well tuned. So I knew right where to set most everything at start-up. I have the white RPM wire connected at the CAS to get the most out of the MAFT's capabilities. I have extended the wire harness and have the MAFT sitting in the glovebox now. If you do this, I'd recommend that you extend the three wires going to the GM MAS first. Kind of separate them, then ziptie those three wires together so they don't get mixed up, because the two harness connectors from the MAFT use two of the same colors in the wiring for each connector. There are two pink and two black wires. Don't get them mixed up. When you see it you'll know what I mean. Solder all of your connections and use heatshrink tubing to cover the welds.
I can not say how much this mod helps the turbo reach boost threshold faster or spool up faster specifically because of it though. I changed alot of stuff on my car at the same time. What I do know is that I have a FP3065 turbo that is nailing 22 psi by 4500 rpm on a stock six-bolt shortblock. I'm damn sure this mod is helping that out just a little bit.
Now just a little info on what I've discovered messing with this thing and my fuel pressure so far. Remember that I have a 1G and the 2G version of the MAFT here.
I tried to establish the 650 injectors set at 50 psi base fuel pressure with the MAFT. Just as I discovered with the 2G MAS and the S-afc awhile back it reduces the airflow signal so much that timing is way up there at 39 degrees at WOT with the MAFT fully leaned out and the base set where idle fuel trims were cool. The car is super slow and chokes on it's own timing advance. That sucks, hehe.
Sooo, I dropped the base fuel pressure down to 45 psi and adjust again. No dice, same thing. It just puts you into a really bad timing advance map to be in at WOT. I was at 34 degrees at the onset of WOT at this point. By the time I got to redline it was better, but spool-up was horrible and there was a big flat spot in response.
At this point I'm done fucking around wth it and I go to 38 psi base fuel pressure. This is real good! I get the fuel trims back in line with a couple of clicks on the MAFT. Hit the frontage road and bam 24 degrees of timing at the top of third gear at redline at 22 psi on 91 octane pump gas, very low knock counts and the car is just super strong. Fucking woody!
This timing/fuel map scenario is why people go to a stand-alone.
Overall this is a great mod with some great benefits of doing it, decent price, great overall tuneability with it, great customer service, easy to install and the instructions are good and in fucking English, eh?! What more do you want!
I'll post a pic or two and my settings soon.
This mod consists of two separate parts.
The MAFT, or the translator part of this mod comes from Ramchargers. It costs $199 and is found
here.
Seems this is the hottest mod since the 16g came out so they are overwhelmed with orders. Be patient. You will get it and it will be good.
You will need another part which is the GM MAF. Either the 3" or the 3.5" version will work. I'm using a 3" MAF. I got mine from a junkyard in Alabama that replied to my parts request that I posted at http://www.junkyarddog.com/. Mine was $40 shipped, but that was before everybody in auto recycling probably noticed these were a hot item all of a sudden. Anyways it came guaranteed to work. Make sure you get the right MAF! The engine code letter on the VIN of the junk GM vehicle has to match one of those posted in the very long list of donor cars already posted here at dsmtalk over in the Parts Talk Forum. Search for it.
Install is straight forward, very quick and simple, it comes with explicit instructions. Use them because they work. I installed mine in the UIC pipe after the BOV. I had to cut my UIC pipe to make room for the MAF and the couplers. Mine is coupled right onto the TB elbow. No problems and the sound of a FP3065 venting to atmosphere without the car going pig rich is rather shweet. I got my 2.5" to 3" silicone reducing couplers and the t-bolt clamps at RRE. The couplers went on with very little hassle even though the O.D. of the GM MAF is more than 3". I descreened my 3" MAF before installation.
With my 650 injectors the 5% increments that the MAFT adjusts in can be sensitive and are immediately felt and seen in the fuel trims and in the knock counts at WOT. It is easy to tune and again the instructions tell you just like it is and which way to turn the dials to go leaner or richer and even what percentage change of the signal each click of a dial means. You still have to have a clue of where your car is at with what injector size, fuel pressure, turbo size, what MAS, etc. and how all of that affects where you want the dials set at. I'd highly recommend the use of a PocketLogger to verify your fuel trims, knock counts and timing advance curve to really set this correctly, so that the car runs at it's best within just a few miles of the install.
I have a '91 AWD and I went with the 2G version of the MAFT. Version 1.3 I believe it is. I already had a 2G mas and S-afc in the car and was pretty well tuned. So I knew right where to set most everything at start-up. I have the white RPM wire connected at the CAS to get the most out of the MAFT's capabilities. I have extended the wire harness and have the MAFT sitting in the glovebox now. If you do this, I'd recommend that you extend the three wires going to the GM MAS first. Kind of separate them, then ziptie those three wires together so they don't get mixed up, because the two harness connectors from the MAFT use two of the same colors in the wiring for each connector. There are two pink and two black wires. Don't get them mixed up. When you see it you'll know what I mean. Solder all of your connections and use heatshrink tubing to cover the welds.
I can not say how much this mod helps the turbo reach boost threshold faster or spool up faster specifically because of it though. I changed alot of stuff on my car at the same time. What I do know is that I have a FP3065 turbo that is nailing 22 psi by 4500 rpm on a stock six-bolt shortblock. I'm damn sure this mod is helping that out just a little bit.
Now just a little info on what I've discovered messing with this thing and my fuel pressure so far. Remember that I have a 1G and the 2G version of the MAFT here.
I tried to establish the 650 injectors set at 50 psi base fuel pressure with the MAFT. Just as I discovered with the 2G MAS and the S-afc awhile back it reduces the airflow signal so much that timing is way up there at 39 degrees at WOT with the MAFT fully leaned out and the base set where idle fuel trims were cool. The car is super slow and chokes on it's own timing advance. That sucks, hehe.
Sooo, I dropped the base fuel pressure down to 45 psi and adjust again. No dice, same thing. It just puts you into a really bad timing advance map to be in at WOT. I was at 34 degrees at the onset of WOT at this point. By the time I got to redline it was better, but spool-up was horrible and there was a big flat spot in response.
At this point I'm done fucking around wth it and I go to 38 psi base fuel pressure. This is real good! I get the fuel trims back in line with a couple of clicks on the MAFT. Hit the frontage road and bam 24 degrees of timing at the top of third gear at redline at 22 psi on 91 octane pump gas, very low knock counts and the car is just super strong. Fucking woody!
This timing/fuel map scenario is why people go to a stand-alone.
Overall this is a great mod with some great benefits of doing it, decent price, great overall tuneability with it, great customer service, easy to install and the instructions are good and in fucking English, eh?! What more do you want!
I'll post a pic or two and my settings soon.
