[Psycho5150]

I have a non-turbo 2.0 Eagle Talon and am looking to pop a few more ponies out, atleast 200hp if not a bit more. I own a TSI as well, but this here is my all motor daily driver. So far I got an intake and a two inch catback.

All suggestions will be looked into.

 

[brokeawd]

Sell it and use the money towards your TSi.




J/k.Do some searching, someone made a good thread about this a while back.

 

[Loner]

A header, High Flow cat, cams, 55mm TB. Thats all I can think of that isn't going to kill your bank.

 

[740 Turbo Brick]

200 HP? Good luck....and thats coming from a 2GNT driver. Are we talking 200 at the crank or wheels. And is this Auto or Standard? That will make a huge difference. Im building my GS as a DD car that has some beefy power to it, but Im not shooting that high. You will want:

Full CAI
Header, 4-1 recommended
UDP
MSD coil pack/wires if you want to spend the extra cash
Exhaust, nothing bigger than 2.5"
Higher flowing muffler.
As loner said, a 55mm, or if you want to spend the big bucks get a MPx 60mm billet aluminum TB. I just got one, and holy fuck ass did my car wake up.


I also bought an F1 Racing stage 1 clutch, easy pedal feel with awesome engagement.

 

[Loner]

Pretty much what me and Turbobrick is all the basic things you can do, unless you want to do internals.

 

[xXPROJECT94Xx]

Whats a 55mm TB or MPx 60mm billet aluminum TB? What does it do?

 

[Wtfeeezy]

Whats a 55mm TB or MPx 60mm billet aluminum TB? What does it do?

It's Short for Throttle Body. 55 millimeters. 60 millimeter throttle body by MPx.

 

[cs82685]

you can also do a jeep 60mm TB, cheaper, but they require some modification.

UDP and the throttle body will most likely be your best bets. LIGHT rims will also help

 

[Sean485]

The OP never really specified if the NT was a 1g or 2g, if it is a 1g the stock throttlebody is 60mm and flows plenty for far more power than it will ever make. Without the aid of forced induction or a bottle you will not get 200hp for less than 8k.

 

[Psycho5150]

Thanks for the input so far. I have a 1992 non-turbo Talon. Automatic Transmission. Haven't found a car with a tranny I wanted to tear up trying to teach myself standard.

Now to address money issues
I am planning to build this and have capabilty to save for what is needed, problem is I am unsure what I need.

I am but a noob mechanic so from the info I got from Turbobrick & Loner.
Cams: I have been looking for performance n/t cams. No luck. If you know where let me know.
Headers: I know what they are, though what does 4 to 1 mean?
CAI and UDP I need elaboration here just to know what is being spoken of.
Wires/Coil: I have stock coil pack with magstar wire.
Exhaust: So a straight up 2.5 inch exhaust the whole way would be best?

To Brokeawd: If you only knew how often I was told that.

 

[na94eclipse]

Cams:I thought I heard of some cams for a N/A, maybe only custom grind, or people were putting turbo cams in N/A's or something but there should be a non-stock option out there. Your going to have to do some research here.

CAI = Cold Air Intake
I believe UDP = Underdrive Pulley

A 4-1 Header have four pipes into a single collector with just one pipe out. A 4-2-1 header would be four pipes into two, then those two into one. BTW you will only have a header, not header(s).

Its hard to say what will be "best" for an exhaust. Do you want more bottom end or top end? Generally speaking, a smaller size pipe will make more bottom end and a larger pipe would make more top end. As stated, if you do go up in size I woulden't go over 2.5 inch. Also if your state laws dont require it, toss the cat in favor of straight pipe.

 

[2LiterRiceEater]

Exhaust wise, I got a 2.5 Cat-back, no resonators, mandrel bent up to the end, where there is a sport muffler. Like stated above, top end increased quite a bit. You will be surprised how much opening up these engines helps.

And people still put cams on N/Ts.

200 sounds like a bit too much on a N/T 4G63. Simple mods like an intake, full exhaust, balance shaft free, and no A/C if you want will help, but no 200. It will just make it peppier.

Not sure about the auto thing though. I have driven a few cars, same models, but one auto and one manual, and I have found that autos are a bit more sluggish. Never driven an auto DSM though, so I wouldn't know for sure.

 

[JimG4652]

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197743&highlight=improve+horsepower&page=3

Check out post #45 on Page 3.

 

[movingman]

I am but a noob mechanic so from the info I got from Turbobrick & Loner.
Cams: I have been looking for performance n/t cams. No luck. If you know where let me know.

Mitsu made NT cams(i.e. 94 Galant GS), they are 260/264 and their come with either 10mm/9.5mm or 9.3mm/8.5mm lift.

Mitsu also made a 170hp NT 4G63, it probably not that hard to squeeze out another 30hp.
Use a 92 Galant GSR ecu(MD172575), its Eprom and has knock and made for 93+ octane.

But seriously, go with a G4CS block and G4CN head with cams, Galant GSR ecu, and your regular I/H/E if you really want 200+hp.

 

[Matt Cramer]

I have a non-turbo 2.0 Eagle Talon and am looking to pop a few more ponies out, atleast 200hp if not a bit more. I own a TSI as well, but this here is my all motor daily driver. So far I got an intake and a two inch catback.

All suggestions will be looked into.

I'd expect a NA 4G63 built to make 200 hp would drive like a Honda without the low RPM torque. 100 hp per liter means you'll have to rev it like crazy to get it there; a turbo motor would have a more street friendly powerband. Not to mention pairing better with an automatic transmission; you might need a high stall torque converter to make good use of the powerband on a high winding motor.

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned trying to use a 4G64 block to build a stroker motor.

 

[Psycho5150]

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned trying to use a 4G64 block to build a stroker motor.

Ihad come across this when looking for a motor for my TSI and was curious how it would apply to a n/t.

Mitsu made NT cams(i.e. 94 Galant GS), they are 260/264 and their come with either 10mm/9.5mm or 9.3mm/8.5mm lift.

Mitsu also made a 170hp NT 4G63, it probably not that hard to squeeze out another 30hp.
Use a 92 Galant GSR ecu(MD172575), its Eprom and has knock and made for 93+ octane.

But seriously, go with a G4CS block and G4CN head with cams, Galant GSR ecu, and your regular I/H/E if you really want 200+hp.

I am already starting to look into this now. Just so I got the abbreveations down... G4CS Block/Head and Cams, 92 GSR Ecu, and well I am unsure about I/H/E.

 

[2LiterRiceEater]

I am unsure about I/H/E.

Intake, Header, Exhaust.

 

[cAPSlOCK97gst]

Why has nobody mentioned using a higher compression head gasket? You would then need to use 93 octane.

 

[na94eclipse]

I wasn't going to even say it in this thread because I know everyone is sick of hearing it but... Add up the costs of what has been mentioned so far and compare it to the cost of turboing your engine. Most of the parts can be bought dirt cheap because factory turbo guys replace the intercooler and piping, injectors, etc pretty frequently so you can pick up factory turbo stuff fairly cheap. Please take this into consideration. (Unless you want a fast N/T and thats it)

 

[movingman]

I am already starting to look into this now. Just so I got the abbreveations down... G4CS Block/Head and Cams, 92 GSR Ecu, and well I am unsure about I/H/E.

G4CS block, G4CN head...The G4CS block and 4G63 head produce about 11.1CR to begin with and the G4CN just adds another .5CR to it(11.5CR).

G4CS is a 6-bolt 4G64 and the G4CN is a Mitsu 4G67.