Those of you who have finished your NT - Turbo conversions, I have a question.

Anybody knows what's the difference between the Turbo, and the NonTurbo wiring harness??

 

yea you have to remove both boxes on the right side along with the entire dash. at least that's how i pulled it out of my gf's 93 awd.

 

i just modifyed the nt harness to work in a turbo...

all you do is cut 4 wires and run 4 new ones...

 

i just modifyed the nt harness to work in a turbo...

all you do is cut 4 wires and run 4 new ones...

not to be mean, but he's the one who told me about that when i was doing my conversion, which was before i told you

his has been under way for over 2 years now i believe.

 

not to be mean, but he's the one who told me about that when i was doing my conversion, which was before i told you

his has been under way for over 2 years now i believe.

I know... but it worked... lol now if only i could keep a motor alive i would be happy... this time im going to rebuild it my self not a shop thats going to leave metal files in the friggan block...

 

i just modifyed the nt harness to work in a turbo...

all you do is cut 4 wires and run 4 new ones...

Details please

 

Okey, I found it here.
http://www.ecanfix.com/~mdhamilton/1991tntecu.html

 

where does the 7th MAS wire go to on this diagram http://www.ecanfix.com/~mdhamilton/1991tntecu.html
also need some help wiring the injector resistor box thanks

 

I'll draw something up real quick for ya, give me a few minutes.

 

Here ya go! if parts of this is vague to you, check the chilton's manual wiring diagram because i didn't include wire colors, or exactly where the +12v comes from.

 

Hey, do you have that up on a site somewhere, and can I link to it from the VFAQ I wrote for the conversion? I'll give you credit at the bottom of the VFAQ page for the diagram.
I was gonna draw a similar picture, but yours is better, and done already...

Now all I have to do is draw a diagram for the coolant lines...

 

yep,

http://www.axialmatrix.com/picturestorage/est/infopages/irpwiring.gif

it isn't going anywhere for a while because i am going to use it for my own vfaq later on. go ahead & use it

You might be better off though just stealing the pic and putting it into the site instead of linking to it on my server. you have my permission to use it though thanks for asking not many people do these days, lol.

 

Thanks dsm93talon for the injector resistor wiring.

But where does the 7th MAS wire go to on this diagram http://www.ecanfix.com/~mdhamilton/1991tntecu.html

 

check here. these were the notes i used for this.

for fullsize just follow the link.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291950155

 

Exactly what i needed to know, thanks guys

 

Excellent thread...
I will make it a sticky...

 

I have a comment to add about adding the resistor pack...

becareful how you handle it, and rubber mount it if you can. The terminals on the back of mine (inside the metal case) cracked apart, and since they're stainless steel, they cant be repaired once they crack. The only thing I can blame is the way I mounted it. It was mounted with one bolt on the side of the intake manifold. Now I have it rubber mounted on the fender. No problems since.

It was causing a horrible studder and hesitation though... and high EGT's.

before anyone asks... you can't mount it on the firewall where the turbo cars mount it, cause the n/t purge control solenoid is bolted there. That is... unless you converted to the turbo car vapor control system.

 

you can remove the emissions without much hassle and the car won't complain at all.

then you can mount it to the firewall.

 

i have had mine mounted to the end of the manifold, but its mounted on top of the little plastic wiring sheath, must give it enough protection mounted there cuz its always worked fine for me even though its not the best position.

 

A few of my notes and experiences about the wiring for an NT to T

MAS - use a turbo one. PERIOD
7th wire goes to pin 8 (Looking at the mas)
Compare your MAS's you’ll notice that the prongs for the plug are in the same color combination. 4 of them are grey and 2 are copper looking. The 7th (odd ball on the left again we are looking directly at the MAS) is grey. That’s where the ECU #8 goes to.

You don’t need the plug for that either. Silicone and soldering is awesome.

Detonation sensor - red wire goes to ECU black to ground
No plug here either. Mmm silicone... hope it holds up to the heat....

FPR solenoid - red to ECU black to ground - you don’t need the pigtail. (Im not using it) silicone is great.

Now, if you a cheap bastard like me. And didn’t invest in ecu pin connector things. Hook up your soldering gun and solder in the missing wires on your turbo ecu. Then grab your drill. And widen the holes on your harness. Push the wires through the harness and secure your harness to the ecu. =] oh don’t use a really large drill bit. And be carfull. Just make the hole large enough to house your soldering job. I used 18G wire. Others recommend 16G

Oh and try not to melt the white plastic on the ecu too much. I did a little and took an exacto knife to reshape the plug.


I did this on a 92gs chassis

 

i got tired of fighting with connections coming loose and ripped the entire custom harness out of mine last night and swapped in my gf's wrecked awd harness in there yesterday.

 

yeah, I had to resolder the damn knock sensor twice cause it kept vibrating loose.... now I put a GM weatherpack connector in there... NAPA has them. No problems anymore.

 

Hey guys, I think I need to bring this one back to life if not for others, at least for myself. I can't view any of the diagrams on this thread anymore. My main questions are on the resistor pack, as in, how do you wire it. Can anyone help me?

 

is this for a 90?!

Is this wiring diagram for a 90?!


I believe that changes for the 91+

I am doing it in a Galant and my ar has all the wires on the ECU side.

still not sure which one I should hook the seventh wire too.




any idea?
it's 92

 

Im going 1.8NT (94)> 2.0T(92) and all i have to do it pull the engine/ecu harness out and everything is gonna work nicely....i do believe i have to change some boxes though, nothing tough.