Well... Personally I used Mobil 1 on my Evo once. After that I switched to Eneos 0W-50 and haven't looked back.
Eneos is made by Nippon Oil Company which until a few years ago was known as Mitsubishi Oil.
Even though the name change, it is still part of the Mitsubishi Group.
From what I hear from my JDM buddies, this is the oil that everyone uses up there, its fully synthetic, I was also told that this is the oil the Evo comes with from Japan.
BUT...

ITS DAMN EXPENSIVE. A case will cost you about 70 dollars, I see you live in Maryland, My oil change isn't scheduled for another 2-3 months. I have an extra case sitting here. I buy them in bulk, like 4 or 5 at a time.

 

Maybe the Mitsu Tech doesn't recommend Mobile 1 for the break in because it is synthetic. Eneos would probably not be recommended either.

 

Just go with some cheap conventional for the first 4 changes at 50, 150, 300, and 500 miles. After that switch to your synthetic of choice.

 

I'd go with a thicker oil, and leave enough room for a quart of Marvel. Especially on a new start. I have used MMO in everything and swear by it.

 

Just go with some cheap conventional for the first 4 changes at 50, 150, 300, and 500 miles. After that switch to your synthetic of choice.

Done this with every engine i have built and it has been great.
+2

 

ky jelly...

Srsly, chevron oil is (imo) the best of the regular oils. That's what I'd use for breaking in the engine.. then switch to synthetic. I use mobile1 15-50 in the summer time and 10-30 in winter time

 

Regular 20w - 50 of your choice... I've had good luck with Castrol, Shaffers, Valvoline....

Whatever you like best.

As far as oil changes, check with whoever build the engine... I am a little more picky/anal then most engine builders and I usually change the oil a good 10 times in the first 1000 miles. I just like my engines to have good clean oil for the first part of their life.

 

What is the general consensus on oil weight? I have always ran 10w30 but i see alot of people running heavier weight. Why?

 

Local Mitsu Master Tech recommended Castrol Syntec full synthetic 5w-30 for my car. Run it year round with no problems.

 

I use Quaker State Fully synthetic 10w-30, Just Switched from Mobile one this oil change and Im waiting to see how performance goes....

Anyone here anything negative about quaker? My first time trying it, It was one of the only Fully synthetic oils at autozone....

Jordan

 

This is probably in the wrong forum.

 

I frankly don't like anything by Quagmire State. No offense MAC.

I'd just use some Wallyworld 10w-30 dino oil for the first handful of oil changes. You won't be fully using the lubrication properties up in the short time each change will be in there. I think it's like $8 for a 5 quart jug.

 

This is probably in the wrong forum.

Yea! Did you ever find those sparkplugs there HOT?

 

Yea! Did you ever find those sparkplugs there HOT?

I did...go read my thread RED...you'll see my response.

 

Sorry to thread jack , but what is wrong with quaker state? Your making me wanna go do another oil change

Jordan

 

I did...go read my thread RED...you'll see my response.

I read it. Just busting your balls. It's my favorite past time besides stalking you.

 

No, it's cool. Just kinda upset that my original thread was locked...but whatever.

Jordan is paranoid Red..better set him straight.

 

!!

 

This is in the wrong forum.

 

I'm currently using castrol 10w-30 for break in then I'm switching over to Royal Purple.

 

I use a thicker oil simply because I can almost swear my lifters are much quieter upon immediate start up after sitting.

As for breaking an engine in I have always been told use dino oils. Then switch.

 

I use a thicker oil simply because I can almost swear my lifters are much quieter upon immediate start up after sitting switch.

Thats odd, thicker oil usually at start up makes the lifters tick more..the thicker oil takes longer to reach the head and come up to operating temps..I like valvoline vr1 oils if you talk to alot of high end engine builders they sware by that stuff. you should run a straight weight oil and let your car idle and go the heat cycles then change to whatever oil you like.

 

I personally trust Valvoline (from everything that I've read) for my soon to be rebuilt motor. Just bought 4 gallons of if for $46ish. Not too bad...

and as stated before, I would also recommend changing the oil often...thats why I bought so much of it.

Good luck with the rebuild, enjoy the monster 2.4L!

 

You'll be fine MAC. I just saw an engine where QS was pretty much all they used and it was like someone poured tar in the engine after X number of thousand miles (like life of engine) but I've never seen oil sludge up like it was.

I used to use Castrol, it's a good oil. But coming from a family where my step-father was in the oil business. If the oil has the API certifications and they match what you're supposed to use for your car, then usually you'll be fine. I've used Wallyworld (supertech) oil for the past 4 1/2 years and had ZERO problems. Heck I even use the ST filters. I've put over 45,000 miles on my car and again, ZERO problems. Just change your oil regularly. That's the key. Also, NEVER let it run more than a quart low. I've heard our cars love spinning bearings when we have really low or dirty oil.

 

Local Mitsu Master Tech recommended Castrol Syntec full synthetic 5w-30 for my car. Run it year round with no problems.

5-30 in the summer? How hot is it there?