Well I caved and put the stuff back in before finding the fuel economy. Combined I got roughly 28 MPG.

 

Alright Its winter break and from the 22nd til the 28th I'll have a back up car. I'm all set to drop the tranny and change the throw out bearing and I even have a mechanically-inclined friend to help. Is there anywhere I could find a good step by step write-up of how to do this. A video would work too. I have the factory repair manual but I can't find anything called a throw-out-bearing only a "clutch release cylinder"

I'm LOW ON TIME so any help would be appreciated especially since I'll have to order the part very soon. Thanks

 

:rofl:

Here's your FAQ:

When you'll be able to remove the clutch let it there and remove the TOB.

You're welcome

 

Removing the tranny isn't as hard as it sounds... jack the car up so you can comfortably work underneath it, rest it on safety stands. Take off wheels. Drain transmission. Remove however many of the 54587329507293487 million balljoints 2G's have to be able to pop out the axles a few inches out of the trans. Remove any crossmembers if needed. Remove intake, shifter linkages, battery, etc. Anything that gets in the way from the top. Unbolt from trans, remove engine mount(s), and usually one person over top and over under is all that's needed to pull it off and lower to the ground.

 

thanks 2LiterRiceEater that's very helpful. If i can get over the flu me and my friend will start on it tomorrow. I'm just looking over the directions on how to do it one last time.

 

Alright I did some work yesterday. It's going slowly but at least by taking my time there's less of a chance I'll do something stupid.

So far I've: removed the battery, intake, wheels, interior(but not shift linkages yet), and drained the trans fluid.

Here's pictures

 

Alright I've got the bell housing off the car but I'm having a little difficulty getting the clutch out of it. I understood that it was supposed to slide right out. What am I doing wrong?

sidenote: I'm very pressed for time and I need this whole thing back together by tomorrow so a quick answer would be appreciated

 

Alright now that I've got my old clutch out I can see that the old one and new one look different. Should I worry about this? I'm going to go ahead and just install it. I just hope its not a big deal. The TOBs are identicle.

 

Trans is back on but i ran into some major problems when trying to bolt the flex plate to the pressure plate: only 2 bolts will ever line up simultaniously. See my other thread for more details.

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=236313&highlight=

 

Problem solved

 

Glad to hear you got it solved

 

Yeah the car is running great now. No issues at all. I've pretty much broken the clutch in with about 350 miles of city/suburban driving. Only thing is i need ti replace an axle now because i popped an axle boot (covers the CV joint). only about $77 tho.

Also I just bought a 1989 rust free 240sx

 

You can replace the boot my friend. Cost like 20$ with everything you need

 

I talked to Paramus Mitsubishi and they said that replacing the boot would take a lot longer and unfortunately I don't have much time to get this thing fixed so i just went ahead and bought the axle. I plan on doing that sometime this week. btw around here i can't find a boot unless its from a dealer and they're more expensive than that.

Here's a pic of the new car.

 

LoL what a lazy ass ... Replacing the boot take something like 10 minutes once the axle is out. They are every-where in part store like auto-zone or Napa. You just been rip off by your mechanic like every-one who deal with a mechanic :rofl:

See, that's one reason why you're not ready for a turbo car.

 

Not sure if you're trying to be a dick or not but you are probably right about the turbo car part. I'm too preoccupied and lacking in common sense to have a turbo car at this point. As for the other thing the dealer I went to wasn't my mechanic and neither was the parts store that I tried(the store was a pro-stock store). I probably should have just tried NAPA or autozone before giving up and next time research it further. Oh well what's done is done.

Just sort of a mental/literal note to myself:
Got to do in the next week or so:
Install Axle
Get a new suspension bolt(old one seems stripped)
Figure out while a stupid check engine light came on(O2?)
Make sure everything is tight.
Install some new exhaust gaskets
Put all of interior back together.
Fix that squeaky acessory belt that is driving me fucking nuts.
Bleed clutch + fill with more clutch fluid(see if it get back to its old strength)

*I'm sure this will take more than a week but hopefully the important stuff will be done my then.

 

Sorry bro, didn't wanted to sound like a dick ... Just wanted to point your mechanic for not saving you money since he didn't wanted to replace the boot and I know you can work. Once you'll have it in your hand take a look to see what the job would have been just for fun.

 

...yeah so i couldn't for the life of me get the axle nut off. I've only had sundays to do it and so far I've failed twice. The first time because I didn't have a socket that was a 32 mm. The second time because dispite using a 2 ft. breaker bar, and an aditional 2 ft extension for leverage...and standing on it...AND pushing down from the ceiling the bolt did not give way. It should also be mentioned that I used an absolute $#it ton of pB Blaster.

So I just went out to Home Depot to buy a 6 ft pipe that I can use as more leverage. Oh and after geting angry and jumping on said bar the rectangular part that goes into the socket part broke right off the breaker bar. Luckily it had a lifetime warranty on it. So can't wait until next fricken sunday to fix that. I did change the oil today though so thats a plus. I was about 1000 miles overdue but no real stress was put on it in any of those 4000 miles and it was mobil one synthetic. Still wish I hadn't done it. It was the first time I've ever changed it with more than 3000

And DSM4LIFE-AWD don't worry about it

 

Yea, if you've never had that axle out, the nut and axle stub is probably seized together in the hub. When this happens guys will go buy a knuckle and hub assembly. I would return the axle. Order a boot kit from Rock Auto and try to do the boot in the car (guessing its an outter one?) You maybe able to seperate the upper ball joint, undo your brake line from the knuckle. Cut the boot off, using a block of wood and hammer, hammer the inner joint thats on the axle off. Clean out the greese as best as you can. Put new greese in, slide the new boot and clamps on the axle. Push the joint back on. Put your clamps on and save for a knuckle/hub-bearing incase that axle or wheel bearing go bad.

 

Yeah but I literally only have one day each week to try to get this done. Maybe like 5 hrs total. And take into account that it took me several WEEKS just to change a clutch. At this point I don't want the CV joint seizing on me. Especially since I have no back up car at the moment and I have to drive into Newark every day. I pretty much assumed that time has run out to save the joint and a new axle is needed either way now. As for the hub I'm going to try again with the new bar and another ton of PB Blaster. I'd like to drive the cheaper way but it'll prob take more than a day(for me) and that is all I have and I need the car first thing in the morning.

btw its the boot closest to the trans on the drivers side. not the one by the hub.

 

Car is working. I've got another bad idle pulley though. That makes three so far: the first one which lived a good life, the second which was defective and a third which was just put in with a new acessory belt has again started to squeak. My car has quite an apetite for them i guess.

 

Changed my first headlight yesterday . Anybody know how to adjust it so that the beam is pointed more down? One of mine is pointed straight in the air. I could always use the search button...naaaah that'd just be crazy

 

Summer Plans:
-Fix Rust
-Fix AC compressor
-Fix tear in front bumper
-Have all Patches/scratches fixed
-Replace Old Springs, Shocks etc.
-New Headliner
-Rob bank to replace money spent on stupid expensive headliner(haha jk)
-?New Sunroof?

Also need to sell/give away a 2G Door, Hatch, and low rise wing. Oh and stock flexpipe.

 

AC Fixed
Tear in bumper zip-tied up tight
Everything Else will be as-is when I sold it

Replacement: 2005 Civic EX Coupe w/110 mi. Hatch Sold
Still have a load of other stuff like tails, flexpipe, and wing

 

Check Out the paint job I did on the old RS wheels by the way

Needless to say there is a Before pic and an After

 

Here's a pic of the wheels on the car. Its kinda crappy if I get a better one Ill change it. They're definitely an improvement but they still look too small for the car.

Also I have since replaced my eclipse with a 2005 civic then changed my mind and decided to keep the eclipse. One bit of rust should be fixed by tomorrow.