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Revised Lifters = No Ticking Sound

20K views 66 replies 36 participants last post by  Keaka26  
#1 ·
I installed the revised lifters on my '96 AWD a couple days ago.

They totally ended the dreaded lifter tick.

If you have lifter tick, this is really the only way to permanantly get rid of it. Think of this more like basic maintainence, than a mod.

Although it can help performance, since the knock sensor can pick up lifter tick as knock and retard your timing. (This has been proven and logged by others. They switched to the new lifters and saw the timing go up)

To get them, just go to your friendly Mitsu dealer and ask for 16 lifters, or "lash adjusters", as they are called in the service manual. They only sell the revised ones now, so don't worry about getting old ones.
(The old lifters have a hole in the top you can barely fit a sewing needle through, the new lifters have a hole 8x bigger than that)
Here is a picture I took:

Image


If you go to a dealership that gives a discount, you should be able to get them for around 11 bucks each. They are very, very easy to replace. Just follow the lifter replacement VFAQ at http://www.vfaq.com

My car is much quieter now (no tick) and doesn't have random moments of timing pullback (phantom knock) like it used too.

6 Thumbs up if I had 6 thumbs.

-SB


[Edited by S_rangeBrew on 08-18-2001 at 10:55 AM]
 
#2 ·
Sweet, I think I'm going to have to do that soon. Then I'll have to get an exhaust to know my car's on...things so quiet when lifter tick finally goes away.
 
#4 ·
99GST, yes you will still get the lifter tick, your original lifters were made in 98-99. The updated lifters weren't available until late 99 to early 00. I had turbotrix build me a motor in the spring of 99 and it included a brand new head from mitsu. Guess what, shit lifters. As a matter of fact, just tonight I changed mine out for the new ones. It took me about 1hr including the installation of a new valve cover gasket. This is so worth the money spent. I tried crappy synthetic oils, additives, high weight dino oils, but nothing would keep them clean. The holes just aren't large enough. I paid $14 ea. from Conicelli Mitsu. in P.A. They used to run $11 ea. but the dealer's buying price just went up last month.
 
#12 ·
Got all new lifters in when I put in my new cams,springs,retainers and stem seals. The price seems to have gone up since the last post. The best DSM discount I could get was $15 a piece and when I was shorted one on Xmas eve I had to pay full price $32 incl tax from a local dealer(satan) BTW They totally ended my valve tick, nothing but pure bliss now.Check out my pics below.

http://photos.yahoo.com/amkjak
 
#13 ·
Question concerning lifter tick

Was your ticking only noticable from the inside only? Also,
how loud was it? I am almost certain I have this same thing, but it does not always tick. I just hate that sound because the fear of c*a*nkw**k :> knock on wood eheh. My ticking is not that loud and I my car don't shut off when i make left or right hand turns eheh.
 
#14 ·
Well it doesn't always tick. When air is mixed with the oil it can enter the high pressure area of the lash adjuster causing them to shrink excessively. Then when the valve is closed a loud tick is made. If the car has been parked for a long period of time especially on a slope the oil in the lash adjusters will decrease allowing air to enter. That is why they tick so much when you start the car after a long period of time. They ticked really loud after I had the front end jacked up a couple of feet to change the transmission fluid. You can diagnose the problem by starting the car and listen for the ticking noise. If it is heard then you probably have air in them. Now, get in the car and race the engine a couple of times. If the ticking has stopped then you have successfully bled the air from the lash adjusters and they function normally (the ticking stopped). This is just to diagnose the problem. The only permanent way to fix the noise is to replace the lash adjusters with the revised version.

Rob
 
#16 ·
Bulletproof said:
Just follow the lifter replacement VFAQ at http://www.vfaq.com

See the very first posting..... Come on Man Pay attention j/k there may be a test later..

It's good to see somebody on here that lives kinda near me for a change, "ASHEVILLE, NC". I was begining to think I was the only DSM'er here in NC surrounded by a bunch of Honda boy's and V8 muscle heads. Sorry to be off topic fellas. Later!!!
 
#18 ·
I've been working on this little dilemma recently and think I've got some good info to add.

First, check out these pics I've taken of a 1G lifter taken apart.
http://www.geocities.com/gvr4fun/Pictures/lifters/

I decided to see what would happen if I took one apart and cleaned it. I have yet to do a full set on my car, but I did swap in 3 or 4 just to see if it would make a difference. Honeslty it was a test to see what would happen. So far, all I know is that they are still lifters and that I need to clean the whole set to decide if this fix is a good one.

Once you check out the pics you'll see why I decided to try to clean them. There really isn't anything in them that should fail. The only thing that I can figure out is that the lifter pieces fit together so tightly that over time the oil begins to coke up on the walls and this will cause the internals to stick at the bottom of the bucket. When that happens, the lifter is no longer tall enough and the rocker will begin to tap.

I'm going to whip up a webpage soon and try to explain this all a little more easily w/ pics, etc. It's not that hard to understand, but when you see the parts it's a lot easier.

I have taken apart a 2G lifter as well and there are very few differences. The hole up top is a little bigger and the spring on bottom is a little taller(1/4"). I have yet to take one of the "new" lifters apart. That hole up top really isn't the problem. It's the tight fit inside and the oil coking up.

I'll post back here when I get the page up.
 
#21 ·
TalonEvolution said:
Sweet, I think I'm going to have to do that soon. Then I'll have to get an exhaust to know my car's on...things so quiet when lifter tick finally goes away.
I totally agree with you TE, when the ticking stops she's really quite.... definately have to get those cause I hate to hear the ticking.
 
#23 ·
question guys..i got a 99gsx..im getting horrible lifter tick, *yes i found out its only lifter tick nothing else..its just that its loud, annoying, and when people hear it they think poorly of my car..

okay now, i bought the extended warranty that covers EVERYTHING on my car...now i was wondering...lifter tick is also covered right? would it be smart to just go and get the mechanics over at my local mistsu dealership to replace them under warranty or should i just do it myself?...cuz i know some dealerships are "HARD" on customer's cars..and i dont wanna give them a chance to mess with mine...please post what you think i should do...
 
#24 ·
Ask the dealership if they will replace them for you. Explain that the lifter tick is tripping the knock sensor and that is causing timing retard which in turn will cause the exhaust temps to rise. You need to replace them so that you don't burn a valve. That should be enough info to scare them into it. :)

When you take your car up to have it serviced, get under the hood and unplug the MAS. The car will run roughly, but it will run (in limp mode). They probably won't notice the plug, but definitely won't be able to go very fast in it. :) Just make sure that they only replace the lifters and don't try to replace a bunch of crap to fix the rough running car. Then when you go to pick it up, just plug the MAS back in and drive home.

Sneaky huh? Too bad you don't have a TMO chip. 1Gs only!
 
#25 ·